Just dies while driving but always starts
 

88. 3.2

Had to crawl home from 45 miles away. Not much fun

Starts right no issue
If you rev it It goes right up and then it's over
On the way down it just quits.

Relay switched No fix

Sensors changed last year but not the cht

Car always runs perfect .

You can start it put it in first and get it going but has to be slow
Eventually you can get going lets say 40 50 . If you punch it
It just dies , then I have to turn off the key. Turn it back on and
Pop the clutch to keep going.

Any ideas before I have start the forum search "

Check the fused power to the DME box. I had a fuse that had a worn contact point.

I just checked everything obvious
This thing will rev like a race car in the garage
Soon as you take it in the street hit second
It's over just dies .

Spark/air/fuel.....

Fuel filter? Fuel pump could have a wonky relay?

Look at the dash - any warning lights like alternator or seat belt warning light illuminating as it dies? I had the same issue and it was the electronic portion of the ignition switch. The contacts wear out and vibrations can cause the car to stall intermittently. Always restarted.

Revs fine in garage but not under load... I agree with Joe Bob, spark/air/fuel issue most likely. Possible Computer but very doubtful. Start with system checks then work deeper.

AVDCAV, do you still have the one-wire CHT? Does the car tend to die when warm, cold or both? Have you attempted the ol' paper clip in the CHT harness trick yet? I guess what I'm trying to say is, is that my WAG is on your CHT.

So I just put the new 2 wire CHT in was hoping "
was then crushed by the Porsche Spirits..

Same deal Car starts right up will rev fine no problem
then without warning,, It's over just stops like you unplugged
an electrical motor. Both lights come on in the speedo, no seat belt light
like another person mentioned.

Did the entire Pin mapping exercise and the only thing seemed to fail
was the Tach Upshift light.

I was reading through some threads and Steve talks about a car that had bad
injectors and was doing bad things etc. But there is mention of a large Grey resistor being blackened. I will say that when you open up the ECU it is not
the prettiest thing and one of those Grey resistors looks pretty black http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378574311.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378574325.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378574336.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378574345.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378574357.jpg

So as you can see There seem to be some issues " but why the heck does this thing start perfectly ?

Wiggle the key when it does this.
I chased a lot, mine was the ignition switch.

this may sound strange ..... do a search for fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure gets too high the injectors quit.

The harbor freight gauge works here

My 3.2 did that same thing. Run, drive, die, then start right up.
Turned out to be the fuel regulator and dampener.

Check the fuel filters at the tank, these tend to clog up and restrict fuel flow.

And don't drop the little ball that is under the cap of the test port down into the engine :)

Something simple? Bad gas? A plugged gas cap?

Update on problem solved
 

So after some reading I found a long post that involved Otto who in 3
Sentences nailed it.

Faulty fuel pressure regulator. Bought the harbor frieght kit
Really for 75 dollars this is a great kit. Running pressure was 39 psi
Kick the throttle and it went into the high 40's .

Was just watching the dial and blammo thing shot to 100 car shut down instantly

Changed the regulator ,,, which by the way I don't see why people call this a hard job
I was done in 20 minutes. Car now sits at dead spec in idle and revving,

Also of note I always had that little hesitation like being pulled back while
Bangin it in second. That is 100% gone the car has not accelerated this good in years.

And it hold 25 psi after being shut down were before it just drained out and made
Hot starts difficult.

So in closing if your car starts perfect and then just dies , before you
Listen to the 1000 useless posts. Check the fuel pressure which takes less than
5 minutes and a 19 mm wrench .

Thank you Otto for saving me hours of useless trouble shooting and parts buying.
I found out that Volvo uses the same part I bought my new regulator for $55.00
Instead of $120.00.

I'm outta here going driving ......

Man, I guess using the search button really does work, LOL. Now you've convinced me to go down to the local HF and pick up the pressure kit.

I've seen where several Pelicans have permanently installed a pressure gauge at the fuel rail port. I've been considering doing the same thing.

Good job, BTW.