New project on my 1987 carrera.

[david.avrahami@]

So and far over the last year, I have replaced my cat converter and muffler and instaled a SW chip. I totally redone my AC system (griffith), Installed new rotors and pads in conjunction with front wheel bearings and ball joints and...sway bars in the back.
My new project before the winter is as follows: 1. oil and filter change 2. air filter change
3. adjust valves ( back side method) 4. new distributor cap and rotor + new spark plugs and wire set. (all parts are on order from our host>
What I would very much appreciate are some tips, suggestions and anything that might help me in doing things right and efficiently. THANKS....

[gtc]

Pick up a Bentley manual if you don't already have one.
Adjust the valves before you change the plugs.

[Hnichols]

Good plan -- they all go together. If you're doing the valves you have to change the oil and disassemble the air filter anyway. And some people ignore gtc's advice and replace the plugs before the do the valves, at the risk of having a piece of carbon fall off and throw off the measurement (removing the plugs will make turning the crankshaft easier).

The valve adjustment is the only challenging task; as you know, there's tons of threads on it. The only advice I'd give is (1) be patient; and (2), when using the backside method, make sure to wipe off the feeler and jiggle the rocker when you get close. If you don't it's easy to miss the go/no-go sweet spot and drive yourself crazy.

Good luck!

[david.avrahami@]

Thanks guys...just to make sure...I drain the oil when the engine is warm and change the oil filter and the air filter, leave car over night and then remove the spark plugs but not replace them....do the valve adjustment and only then replace dist. cap and rotor drop a few drops in the dist. shaft, insert the new plugs and install the wire set and then fill up the engine with oil...
Am I correct?

[Jcslocum]

If you have or can find the tools. Do a compression test and if you really want data points, a leak down test.

[david.avrahami@]

a compression test, data points, a leak down test are beyond my capabilities...the car runs well, no oil leaks and very smooth. all I am doing in this project is maintenance and renewal...I just want to make sure that the sequence of events is correct and any other advice is fully appreciated
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[wrxnofx]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but do you use some dielectric grease on the new plug wire connections? Or just leave everything dry?

[david.avrahami@]

I did not plan on using the grease ...I will use magnecor wire set which are well known for their strong insulating capabilities.
I want to make sure, however , that my sequence of the various steps on this project, as displayed before on this thread, are correct...

[david.avrahami@]

HNichols, Thanks for your advice...please refer to your original answer re spark plugs...
You are suggesting that it is easier to rotate the crank shaft with the plugs out...Does this mean that I should DISCARD THE OLD PLUGS prior to the valve adjustment and have the newly purchased plugs INSERTED in conjunction with the change of the wire set . dist. cap and dist. rotor AFTER THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT??? OR?
Thanks

[Hnichols]

David:
Well, some people (see gtc's post above) leave the (old) plugs in there while doing the valve adjust, and replace them only when the valves are done. As mentioned above, that's because removing them could loosen a chunk of carbon that could get lodged between the valve face and the seat, throwing off your measurement. I don't know how much of a risk that actually is (I think the plugs are closer to one set of valves, intake or exhaust -- I forget which -- in the 911 motor as compared to others; that's why there is the concern). Nor do I know how difficult it is rotating the motor with the plugs in. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
The other school of thought is to remove the old plugs, do the valve adj. without plugs (motor is now easy to rotate), and install the new set afterwards when you put everything back together. That's what I have done, but next time I'll probably do the valves with the plugs in.

I think people here have done the valves successfully either way, although the first is probably the more "professional" approach.

Hope that helps!
Hugh

[frannyB]

HI David,

You might want to consider replacing the fan belt if the age is unknown. You can spin the fan and check the alternator bearing as well (mine was really bad!). With the plugs out, you can turn the engine over from the fan (you might need to squeeze the fan belt a tad) - Just don't rotate the engine backwards. You might also need to replace your valve cover gaskets/nuts. Our host sells a nice kit. I have a Cab so getting to the pulley nut on the crank is more of a pain because of the little damper Cabs have.

I did all you are saying when I got my car. Your sequence is fine. The only real important bit is do the oil hot and the valves stone cold. You will need to be up and down to do the valves (exhaust under the car and intake in the engine bay) so set the car up so you are all set before it cools off. I removed a few big bits to make access better. Oh, I found the plugs were lots easier to deal with with the upper valve covers off. Lots of room for the socket. Clean up a bit before you remove the covers so nothing bad gets in there.

Maybe a good time to replace the air cleaner as well? Simple enough.

Have fun!

Franny

[david.avrahami@]

Thank you all....your advice and tips well appreciated.

[Flat Six]

Assuming you're also replacing valve cover gaskets & nuts . . .

Since I'm already there, I like to crack (loosen then retighten) a couple of stubborn threaded parts that -- if left unmoved for extended periods -- can seize: trans drain plug, trans fill plug, O2 sensor, etc.

[gtc]

The only benefit of draining warm engine oil is that the viscosity is lower and it drains faster. The idea that warm oil will carry more particles out with it is bunk.

I wouldn't risk pulling the plugs to make rotating the engine easier. Turning over the engine is not difficult with the plugs in. Put a wrench on the fan pulley nut and squeeze the sides of the belt together with your fingers while you turn the wrench. It's easy to overshoot the timing marks, but you don't really even need to worry about this too much, since there is a pretty wide angle where the rockers will be loose (off the cam lobes).

[david.avrahami@]

Thanks Graham...can the valve covers be removed without removing the plugs?

[gtc]

Originally Posted by david.avrahami@

Thanks Graham...can the valve covers be removed without removing the plugs?

Yes.