First time valve adjust - Help
 

HI All,

I am getting ready to do the first valve adjust, way overdue, I am getting everything ready drained oil, removed cat heat shield, seems I am getting stuck at what I had thought would be simple. I cannot seem to get the plug wires off the plugs. I have pulled pretty hard and am worried I may break the connector? Is there some trick I am missing, I had thought they just pulled straight off. Maybe I need to really pull harder but wanted to check before I tried.

The plug wires should just pull off. I never had to use excessive force. Do you know the last time they were removed?

It's been at least a few years is my guess. Car has 116K and it was last tuned at about 100K, PO had it done.

well it just got worse, pulled a bit harder and broke the elbow connector, I guess it's time for a new set of wires, still cant get the wire off the plug but I guess now I can use vise grips?

you can get spark plug wires pullers at any auto parts store. they have plastic jaws so they don't damage anything.

David, I just did my first valve adjustment and tune up and I had the same problem. I bought the plug removal pliers from Auto zone and they worked great. The pliers only cost about $5.00 They keep them with the wire sets up in front. Also, so it does not happen again, buy some of the wire lube to put into the new wires where they go into the plugs and also where they go on the cap. When you start the valve adjustment you will think it is impossible. Then it gets better!!!

I have plastic and metal ones with rubber over the metal on the tips.

I think the heavy duty ones would work best because you can apply some force.

I got them at NAPA - have not seen them at the bigger car parts stores.

Also, you can buy the ends, elbows, etc parts individually to repair.

I'm a novice at valve adjustments though I've done a few now and am almost due for my next one (though you can't tell by the way she's running). I can turn mine over by hand with no problem doing a valve adjustment without removing plugs (to lower compression). I thought the general consensus was to leave the plugs in while doing one? Good advice above though and I'd be going through with what your doing anyways (i.e. new NGK plugs) at least. You know...while you're in there...it's a good sickness to have :).

I am also thinking of adjusting the valves on my 73. How long should it take? I try to save a few dollars and feel self empowered i when can.

I have started to attempt the actual adjusting. I have the rotation down and have started checking the ones that are easier to access as I figured if I can get the "feel" on those it should make the others easier. The trouble I am having is that all the valves seem tight in that i cant seem to get the feeler gauge in any of them which has me wondering if I am trying to put in the the correct place. Looking at the pictures it seems it should go at the end of the set screw above the valve, unfortunately I can't seem to find a good picture at that angle. I did get the valve feeler gauge but it does not seem to be bent at he full 90 degrees, do I need to modify it a bit? I did try to loosen one of the screws to see if I was indeed in the right place and like the plug wires it seems very tight. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am taking it slow but want to make sure I don't really mess something up.

Here is the deal, if it has been a long while since you had the valves adjusted they are probably tight and the gauge will not slide in. Try this, when the pulley is lined up on the valves you want to adjust there should be a slight rock movement in the lifters. If not, you will not get the gauge in there. So I just started fresh and loosened the nut backed off the screw put in the gauge . In other words, I just started fresh from the start. I think next time it will be easier. BTW, by doing them yourself you will save hundreds of dollars!! Nick

there is nothing wrong with backing off each adjustment screw, then adjusting each screw accordingly. I personally find it easier that way, particularly with the valves you can't see.

+1.

Just bypass wrestling with ones that are even a quarter of a thousandth tight. Bust them loose and reset.

Sounds like a good plan, time to dig back in. Thanks for all the info.

Might want to read up on the back side method. I find, with the motor in the car, that this is the easier of the two.
Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment - The Backside Method

Well other then the broken plug wire, probably needed to be replaced anyway, things went smoother once I backed off the screw and figured out what I was measuring. A couple of them were still fine. I just need to put in the new plugs, oil and wot for the wires to arrive before I can fire her up again. Hoping it is a smooth sound. thanks for all the help.

Backside method
 

I found the backside method to be much easier although it is better to get an assistant. The reason for this is that the feelers have to be inserted one side of the engine and the adjustment made on the other side. I started out doing it by myself but bouncing back and forth from under the car was getting tiresome. Read about the backside method in our hosts "technical articles". It also helps to have two sets of feelers - one set to the no-go setting and the other to the go setting. Good luck.

David, don't be surprised if there is a small bit more clatter when you are finished. The gaps actually tighten as you drive more miles. It is generally recognized that it is better to have the valves be a little loose rather than too tight, so as not to burn a valve. Just go slowly and double check your tolerances, try and get it as close to .004 as possible.

A good way to get used to the feel on the .004 setting is to adjust the exhaust side on #1 cylinder. It's one of the easiest to reach (for me), so you can really practice getting the right adjustment or "feel" for what you are trying to accomplish. When you feel comfortable with the adjustment on exhaust #1, go topside and adjust intake #1.

Once you've done a couple, you'll figure out it's not a really difficult job. I think Wayne's book gives this job "2 wrenches" for difficulty...not bad at all.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the help. I finally got it all put back together and took her for a spin. I am not really sure but it does seem a bit louder and maybe a little "clicky". Not really sure as the last car I had that had valve issues was a 72 Dodge dart. The car does seem to run better, so I'm not really sure what I am hearing. Overall it was not to bad a job, assuming I don't have to redo it.

If you go on you tube and look up a 3.2 911's running, they all clack some. I would be worried if my car did not click or clack some. It did not click before my valve adjustment and they were all tight.