I cannot see how the cables connect here.
I seems it uses blade terminals, you will need to crimp blade terminals to your cables.
I think that is what most of us are trying to avoid.

I'm still thinking the 12 and 15 position panels don't have a space between every 3 fuses, may have to order one just to find out...

And if it has a spacer it would be very easy to delete it. Each three fuse block is riveted to the aluminum strip. Just drill out the rivets, take the spacer out, drill new holes and rivet the blocks in the place you need.

Here is where I am at now
 

So I am waiting for a good solution....here is where I am at now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381350910.jpg


Here are the problems with the panel from Chief
The inside of these dependent on the plastic snapping together, the metal is not riveted or attached in any way.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381351166.jpg

The next picture shows the movement out of the holder when a fuse is pushed in. the bottom support come out. The same is so when a stiff 10 gauge wire is attached.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381351273.jpg

Sub'd great idea

Here is the inside of the SCB series, from CE Auto Electric Supply and others
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381876720.jpg
Still the same basic construction as Chief, and all the rest, but each fuse holder is from stout extrusion, not simple stamp and bend!
Looks much better, but they are in fact, aluminum!! Despite this, CE says they have never had problems with Al joined to Cu wire!
Maybe the household problem was between Cu and Al wire - which is a different situation.

Finished
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383525659.jpg

This is where I started....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383525709.jpg

This is was almost midway thru the process.....I triple checked the wires with the wiring diagrams that I got from people on this board...THANKS GUYS!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383525879.jpg

This is the finished installed fuse panel that I got from Fred Cook

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383525964.jpg

This is the finished product. Quite a task, but not impossible. You just have to keep your wits and patience....and MARK EVERYTHING.

So I am done with this....On to the next project

Looks great. Hope to have mine looking similar soon.
Probably late December when we get some freezing rain or even snow! Usually about a 2 week cold spell here around then.

Fuse Panel from Fred Cook? Did I miss something?
:confused:

Search for Fred Cook and you will find a post about battery and fuse corrosion...you will see the panel he puts together......ALOT better than what we have talked about in this thread.

Fred's panels are nice but I believe you have to put a Faston terminal on each wire instead of screwing them in place as this thread has discussed with the different style of fuse holder.
This style (screw type) should take a lot less time and work to install.

You did a nice job on the install! This should give you many miles of electrical gremlin free driving!

Subscribed

Henry

Congratulations. Really nice and clean wiring job. But, why are all your relays red. Are they all fuel pump relays?

Because he likes diodes (as do I).

Great work!

Doyle

Red
 

Because they were like that when I got the car...

They are all the same relay, just different functions.

Really happy with the job I did. I just hate those 1930 style fuses.

double post.

I finally tackled this job this weekend.

I used the Chief fuse blocks and overall am happy with them, but did experience the same issues that DohertyCM mentioned above.

Started here
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps06afd055.jpg

Pulled the fuse panel and cleaned it up. Also drilled out all the rivets from the Chief blocks and separated the blocks into the inner and outer halves.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps0f9f0241.jpg

Then using the stock screw locations, screwed the aluminum strip from the Chief blocks to the 911 panel to provide a spacing layout.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pseeeb63b9.jpg

This gave me relatively straight holes that are spaced correctly for the Chief blocks.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7a7e7f3c.jpg

Then riveted the Chief blocks directly to the 911 panel. They are not perfectly straight but close.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pscd3f7d74.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd154fae8.jpg

With block caps back on.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps20eb7bb4.jpg

And installed.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps17e0ac6c.jpg

The lid still fits well
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps4be8e250.jpg

I also installed one in the rear
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse2d9223b.jpg

If you plan to use the single tap power distribution block for the "left" of the panel - how many fuses should be selected to share a single large power source?