Type of thread/stitch for steering wheel?

[nhromyak]

What kind of thread/stitch shoul I get for the steering wheel?

I did this 1 or 2 years ago, and it is coming apart again. I guess I didn't use the right stuff. If I recall right, I tripled-up on the thread.

I need to get dark brown thread/stitch as that is the color of the steering wheel skin.

I was thinking of getting some nylon, but then I thought I might break the holes in the leather.

Does anyone know what the wheel skin recovering places send with their kits?

TIA
Nick

[Eric Coffey]

You might try Agla. They sell recovering kits, and may be able to supply you with just the thread, it thats all you need.


www.aglausa.com

800-780-4500

[Nickshu]

Man does this job suck.

I recovered mine over Christmas. My fingers hurt for a week!!

Performance Prod. sells the recover kit in several colors with thread and needles. The thread was a pretty thick cotton, but really looked just like a thick version of regular sewing thread...nothing special. I'd send you my leftovers, but its black and there was very little remaining.

The kit is about $50.

Dont want to complain too much, b/c it looks/feels awesome, just a job that looks simple, but is very tedious and takes a very long time.

Nick

[lagoon]

Nick, I used upholstery thread available at most fabric shops. It is very thin and VERY strong. 81'SC

[davis911s]

I did mine over Christmas with the wheelskins kit. The thread they have is quite thick, it is like a large strand of leather, it is even coated. I liked it VERY strong.

Shawn

[GeorgeK]

I've been recovering wheels as a side hobby for 7 years now, and I am over 50 pieces now. I use linen thread, it is available in"2 thread" and "3 thread". The oldest one I have done is still in a car and zero problem.
What's more it is available in a range of colors.
GeorgeK

[nhromyak]

Thanks for all the info. I think I will go to my local crafts supplier (Michael's) and see what they have. I like the upholstery thread or the linen thread. Worse case, I will try and buy the thread from one of the wheelskin recovery ads.

I know how bad the stitching can affect your fingers, that's why I only do 1/4 at a time.

For those of you who bought the steering wheel skin, did the skin cover part of the spokes like the OEM?

I was told some shops do not cover the spokes.

BTW: I have the four spoke steering wheel.

Thanks for all the great replies.

Nick

[Matt Smith]

Aha! Very timely topic.

I just stumbled across a Nardi wheel (like CamB's) I had been searching for for ages...in a wrecking yard, laying on the front seat of an old toyota (it hadn't come off this, so it's origins were a mystery???). That just adds to the 'mystique fore me. I just love old, hard to find steering wheels. Paid $6 us for it. A crime, especially as the redneck wrote it down as "old Toyota wheel"

Anyway, I'm going to recover it, but need a few tips as I'm working blind.
Ok on the thread issue, but I need to know what these kits consist of. George- what kind of needle/s are the best? Curved, straight, exotic??
What does the leather shape look like. I'm imagining a "band' of leather about 2-3" wide- with flaps for the spokes-, sewn together then reversed for the joiner bit?

So if this is right, you put this around the outer circumference of the wheel and start drawing each side in to meet on the inner circumference? Is the leather a tight fit around the outer circumference?

Do you glue it too, and if so, what type of glue? Contact seems obvious, but wouldn't allow for any mistakes...

I'd really appreciate some basic procedures. Can sew fairly well, but never done a wheel before.
Thanks

[Tony'z911]

I was wondering a few things about re-covering a stock 4 spoke wheel. Where are you guys buying the wheel skins and is the leather of good quality? I was wondering if the skin has to go over the old leather that is already on the wheel to get the proper fit and stretching and is there any trimming involved? Finally I was wondering about how many hours would it take to completely stitch a 4 spoke steering wheel?

TIA
-Tony

[Matt Smith]

Umm- those two shots look the same

[davis911s]

Here are the before and after of my wheel. I put on a wheelskins to get rid of the mess that was on there. I drove it like that for three years -THE SHAME

Before

After


I notice a big difference but don't know how it will feel, as it is winter here.

Good Luck
Shawn

[Matt Smith]

Hey! that was sneaky editing, I swear. Now they do look different.

[nhromyak]

Tony,

All I can tell you is on my OEM 4 spoke, it appears to be two different threads one zigs while the other zags. This makes the X marks across the steering wheel.

I believe it was originally glued to the wheel as well, as almost all the stitching is gone, but the skin remains.

Good Luck.

[GeorgeK]

OK,
If your leather doesn't have holes, you use a leather needle, triangular in section, with cutting edges. If ouy have the holes, any std needle will do.
I usually use Conolly leather. Find a nice thin (not too thin) piece.If you have the old cover you took off, use it as a template. If not, measure the circumference of the wheel, then substract about 3-4 inces, it shoud be HARD to pull over the wheel. You close the circle, then you trim and sew. If you glue, then only on the back of the wheel or spokes, because if you have to pull on the leather, it will create folds.
Also, get a surgeon's needle holder, or the pliers used by fishermen to remove the hook from fish. unless you're a fakir...
Here 2 pics of past and present job: rs lightweight wheel and Porsche design (for sale).
GeorgeK

[Matt Smith]

Wow!

So is the needle curved?

[GeorgeK]

I use a straight needle. You have enough freedom with leather elasticity, and the foam is compressible too. If you recover a hard plastic wheel, it gets trickier, but it's feasible. the straight nedle is way easier to direct and push
BTW I hate to hit on products I haven't seen but I have a hard time believing that any pre-holed kit would fit OK, that is because no two pieces of leather have the same elasticity, and there are very small variations betwen wheels of the same type. You ALWAYS have to trim some not to end up with the leather bundled up between the stitches, and to avoid nasty creases where the curves are marked, such as where the rim meets the spokes.
On last trick: when it's finished and you have that one crease bugging you, give the wheel a long hot bath and let it air dry, it is often enough to smooth it down. Worked for me a few times. Of course that huge fold will not disappear...
GeorgeK

[retnug]

I was just thinking about this. You might also try a binding thread. You can find it at a boaters supply place (West Marine, Boaters World). Boaters use it when making their own lines for sailing and boating. Used to stop knots or line from unraveling. It is strong and designed to hold up to weather.

Just a thought.

[Matt Smith]

What excellent advice. I've been wondering about the technique for a while.
Didn't the RS rims have two layers of leather to make the thickness? Heard that somewhere.
I guess the last remaining question would be the stitch itself, but I'm not sure if you could explain it in words. Or maybe you could, for the benefit of all the curious Pelicanheads out there...

[78targa]

Well,

I just finished recovering my 3 spoke wheel. I think it turned out excellent. The stitch was not too difficult and made sense once I got the hang of it. I used two curved needles with an Agla wheelskin kit.

1. Start at the end of one spoke with the thread coming out of both of the first holes you wish to start on. At this point I have a needle attached to each end of thread. Thus the needles are to the outside of the skin here.

2. Take one needle and push it into the next hole diagonally across from it going from the outside in.

3. Take this same needle and then go through the hole straight across from the inside out. You should have made either a 7 or a backwards 7 if you "connect the dots."

4. Repeat with the other needle to get that piece of thread to the same spot.

5. Pull both threads away from the wheel to tighten and repeat the above steps (2-4).

6. You might have noticed your first set of stitching came a little loose. You will need to tighten it back up before tightening the last stitch you made. Tedious??? yes, but it will ensure you don't have any loose stitches.

7. Continue the process until you get to the end of the next spoke.

Some tips that might prove useful:

a. Note I said "hole you wish to start" in step 1. you might need to trim the excess leather at the spokes. Plan on where you will cut before you stitch a side.

b. I suggest making several loops to cinch the seam tight as it might get weak if you cut down the spoke it runs along (might be an Agla issue only).

c. I found that following the mold seam on the wheel to be useful in keeping the seam straight.

d. Take your time centering the leather! It can "twist" on you and you might end up with a flattened X pattern. Pay attention to how the holes line up before stitching.

e. I took at least 6 solid hours...ugh. Be in a well lit area and place the wheel between your legs. A sectional couch works well to hold the wheel in place as well.

f. Ok so maybe I am anal, but I did not know which side went first...right over left, or left over right...does it matter??? I stayed consistent but yes that bothered me...I picked right over left for those interested.

g. Just remember you always start with the same side. After an hour or two you will get the hang of it. BLAH!

h. Have you considered going to a shoe repair store for leather thread? I am sure they have all gauges and colors. You might also try a tack shop (I got a set of seat straps made there).

I hope this is helpful. I have spent the past 6 months reading most of the posts for the past 2 years...just trying to give something back. Let me know if I was unclear.

[howie944]

The covering on both the wheels I restitched were in good shape. The thread had worn and was missing in some spots on both. I went to Pep Boys and bought a "Superskin" wheel cover kit, ditched the cover but used the thread and the needles provided. The thread appears to be a waxed thread almost the consistency of dental floss. If there is still some thread remaining on the wheel, carefully pull it out and look to see how the stitching is done. It is sort of an X pattern. Using two needles, one at each end of what appears to be 15 feet of thread, you work the needle from the underside of the hole over the top to the underside of the next adjacent hole criss crossing as you go (look at the stitching on a baseball, is somewhat similar) . Both mine are 3 spoke and I started at the base of one spoke working outward toward the rim of the wheel. Many hours later and hopefully a few good movies you will reach the base of the last spoke. Run the thread back under the cover and pull it out through one of the holes about 2" away from the center this will secure the end of the thread. Trim the end of the thread away and you are done. If the Superskins cover doesn't provide the color thread you need, I go with the suggestion of trying a shoe repair shop to find it. (Sorry so long but hope it helps)! Amazing the skills you develop owning one of these "gems"!