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ST/R/RSR hotrod. What would you start with and why?
I’m curious on opinions as such a project is in my future. I want to build a new home for my Supertec 2.8ss. I am interested in building for the satisfaction of it. Car would be used for track day fun, autocross and early Sunday morning therapy drives…but probably not racing to a specific series. It will be a bastard (because that makes me happy) but it will be done to a high level. It will be lightweight. Aesthetically it will evoke the early race cars & hot rods. It will be built to go very well but not at the expense of the overall raw driving sensation.
Question is, assuming so much would be procured that is not part of any one car…what would you start with? I can think of several starting points with pluses and minus. Love to hear what others would do.
Thanks Don |
I would vote #3. Though I'm biased as it's kind of the boat I'm in.
If budget allows maybe #4 isn't bad either. Seems like number 3 gets you farthest fastest and with the most flexibility. Not to mention the price premium on turbo parts. |
After having done an RSR, I would start with a turbo look and just do the bumpers, hood and interior to get an ST look,
Flares are the wrong size but cheaper staring point than a turbo, but came with all the turbo running gear. Put it on a back date weight loss program and go have fun. Quick and easy, and no engineering, upgrades, or rust repair involved. |
#3, they built lots of them and you can stripe them down pretty good for weight savings. Plus, they have flares.
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I think the answer on starting point depends on where you want to end up. the R/RS/ST/RSR all have different flavors of width, visual simplicity and personal appeal.
If R, start with the SWB car. If modified interpretation of an R - early, challanged LWB car. (could even be a mid year) if RS start with the SC If ST start with the SC and reshape the rear flares to pull them out. if RSR start with the 930 (harder to find, more expensive process. Consider that suspension modifications, wheel widths, tire availability should all be factored into your planning and decision making. I think that the 2.8SS (I presume 66x95 on early turbo case) would be a high rpm screamer and personally I would go for the R or simplified look. btw, you may have to make your decision based on the tub that you find available. |
I have been seriously thinking about the same thing for a while so I am very interested in the opinions on this one.
What about an SC widebody chassis with a 993 transplant and going for an IROC look? |
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Don,
So that's what the new garage is for, eh? |
I'm taking option 3 in my builds. A 1974 that will eventually have a built 2.8 or 3.0 (white in the picture) and a 1984 (brown and primer in the picture) with a 3.6 with PMO EFI.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psaf1ec9d1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4753a304.jpg |
I chose option 3 for lots of reasons, not least of which were cost and lack of guilt that would come with chopping up something earlier.
Narrowbody car gives you some weight advantage but tougher tire and wheel tradeoffs. You can get a good narrowbody car minus engine and trans for around $3500, sell off a lot of parts you wont use for a thou or so, then build something nice from there from $15000 on up, depending on your choice of transmission, how much work you do yourself, suspension choices, etc. |
If you plan on selling in the future a 75 or earlier chassis will make it much easier to reach the CA market because it does not require smog tests. Not sure if this is a consideration.
G |
I agree with aigel.
I was going to say, if I decided to build a hot rod today, I'd start with a 75 911. You can get one much cheaper than any other 911, while still being smog exempt nationwide. You still have a completely mechanical car. And if an R interpretation is your desire, you are starting from a narrow body. But if you want to imitate an RSR or ST you would be changing the fenders anyway. |
That's a great point about the 75. The only downside is Porsche didn't start galvanizing the cars until 76 so rust could still be an issue.
I wonder what year the tub is in Olson's car? |
Jack's car started as a '72.
I thought about the rust issue too. I'd only buy the car from a desert area. Also, if I were building a hot rod, I'd want to heavily reinforce the shell and as part of the backdate process, I'd have the car totally disassembled to find and treat rust. I'd even consider having the Zuffenhaus guys e-coat the body when it's done to ensure rust won't be an issue in the future. I spend a lot of time jogging and to keep myself from going insane I think about these things. |
HA! You're not alone in that regard, Will.
Definitely agree with beefing up the chassis. I was thinking about coilovers so that would be a must. |
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Eventual resale vale of the completed vehicle is pretty far down my priority list but I suppose there is no reason to be foolish. 75 does make sense for those reasons. |
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Don |
for RS or S/T (or S-T, or even the VERY rare S T) start with Solid tub mid-year with worn out aesthetics and mechanicals - cheaper than SC/Carrera
I'd stiffen the body a la Dave B./TRE on the fraise or framboise car he did for a client |
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