Different timining USA vs ROW -83 SC ?
 

Was confused by my manual Bentley 911 SC (USA) -83 that says 5degree at 950rpm and 21degree at 6000rpm.
My crankshaft pulley shows Z1 and 25 mark (no 5degree or 21 ).
But my small (ROW)911SC ownersmanual says 25 degree at 4000rpm.
Runs fine in 25degree 4000rpm and up and just some degree over Z1 on Idle.
Or did I miss something..
I have ROW 911 SC 3l no airpump,no cat or oxygen sensor in bypass.no ac. no engine bay blower. no turbo
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...06904158_n.jpg

You need the advance and retard vacuum lines removed and plugged.
Set the timing to the right of the pulley z1 mark about 5mm. without the vacuum lines connected you can get to 4000 rpm.
At idle, there is a vacuum line that is sucking vacuum is for retard. Connect it to the distributor side of the pod.
The other line goes on the other side of the pod.
Thats how the dist. is set up
BUT
you need to make sure that the distributor itself is working properly.
With the cap off the upward fingers of the dist need to have movement available because that what the pod does is move those fingers.
If you dont have movement, remove the distributor, remove the pod and soak the distributor in WD40 or the like for overnight.
With the pod removed, you should have about 30 or 40 degrees of movement in the fingers.
If you dont, get back to me and that will be another topic with pictures.
Bruce

I did check timing with vacum line off as manual said. But only have that one line on distributor. Maybey its not right distributor for -83 dont know. But it works fine now w 25degree 4000rpm.
The confusion was that 21degree recomend?

I will check distributor more as you say.

Full mechanical advance setting
 

ROW 9.8 CR motors tune differently from the US SC motors. The 4000 RPM is "full mechanical advance" setting with the vacuum line disconnected. Advance weights against the stops makes some sense to limit the total advance. Oil the felt on the center of the distributor shaft(in moderation) as required to get oil down to the advance weights & springs(old school wrenching). You will need somebody with steady hands or foot to hold the 4000 RPM. Be sure to use the ROW/Turbo rev-limiting distributor rotor to protect your motor. Turbo limit is 7000 and ROW limit is 6800. In the US the Turbo rotor is much less expensive. You may want to check the vacuum advance & hoses for leaks just to be thorough. Best of luck. :)

The correct distributor for the 80 to 83 USA car is 016, the last 3 numbers on the side of the dist. The pods go bad and are not available anymore so yours is for advance only. The big thing is the inside base of the distributor is able to rotate freely with the pod removed.
Bruce

Thanks for (old school wrenching) tricks . And clear out USA/ROW tune different in timing too :)

My ROW is single vacuum
 

My ROW distributor is also a single vacuum line. If you are having idle issues, look at the vacuum advance carefully & all vacuum lines. We replaced my vacuum lines when the motor was out this summer and the 83 SC lines were getting pretty stiff and not sealing well (IMHO). Holding the 4000 RPM to check the advance is a little unsettling at first but it becomes easier. You will probably start to like the sound of 4000 RPM in the garage. I was worried about pre-detonation @ factory advance setting but no "pinging" on hot days with 91 US octane gas. I still run the BRP8ES NGK spark plug but I still have to take some longer interval plug readings since the trombone was added. With the SSIs & a SC front cooler(and the factory BEHR) it takes a while to warm up and get the front cooler thermostat to open. I have to watch for the little oil pressure drop at idle when the thermostat finally opens. :)