'83 911SC Euro PPI

[blg5035]

Hello Pelicans,

This is my first post. I have just started my search for my first Porsche and have been reading all the previous posts about common issues, what questions to ask, etc., so I won’t waste your time with re-asking all those questions.

This week I checked out and drove an ’83 911SC Euro model, with factory Turbo flares (confirmed by 2 shops). It has approximately 60k miles.
•Sat since 2002 – no service records before current owner

•Given to Porsche-only shop (Rennsport) to fix approx. 1 year ago – had ignition system completely redone, fuel system gone through, warm up regulator rebuilt.

•Interior completely redone – New carpet, seat upholstery, wooden floor board replaced with SS.

•The owner was very open with flaws when I checked the car out. Didn’t have to ask too many ?’s, he answered a lot of them without prompting.

•Has pop-off valve, Carrera tensioners

•HX in meh shape, but still functional

•Owner drives it regularly

Had PPI done at Autometrics in Charleston, SC. Not quite Porsche specialists (they work on other foreign cars), but do race 911s in Rolex series (water cooled though). The report mentioned had broken head studs, but wouldn’t shop that did original work notice something like this? They refused to remove the valve covers to confirm.

Also said shifting was stiff (car does likely have short shifter) and might need a rebuild, but I had driven it and didn’t notice any sort of crunching/major difficultly changing gears (bad synchros). I felt this leaned towards just needing a new shifter bushing ($40 vs. $2k!)

Rust on front belly pan tub near suspension mount. Tech said there is a kit to cut out and patch in new section (~40hrs labor), but wouldn’t replacing the whole pan be easier/cheaper, ie. less risk of having patch be misaligned?

Tech also said rear brakes were dragging.

The guy was asking $17k, but I passed because there were too many unknowns on how much work was needed (could be $6k+ depending if tech was right on POSSIBLE issues). Did I miss out a unique car/good deal or did I avoid a disaster? I’d appreciate any input, as I know I have a lot to learn.

[faverymi]

Honestly.

The rust, which remember you only see the tip of the iceberg plus the head studs make it a deal breaker to me at the asking price.

Unless you own a shop this would be a lot of money to fix. Move on and find another one.

IMHO.

[Reiver]

Rust up there prob from a leaking battery, you won't know how bad it is until it is 'opened' up. Not uncommon and an expensive fix.
Broken head studs....major issue cost wise.
He's off base...I'd walk at that price and would only buy a car with head studs broken if I were planning on a rebuild of some type (top end etc).
If the car is nice 10-12k.....but with the rust and bodywork I'd say 9-10k would be my top offer.

[yanik]

I would pay 10k for that... but then again I could do all the work myself... I just purchased an 84 with no rust 255k on chassis and 17k on new built 3.4l with some light mods for 15k... This also has a wide body... Granted the paint needs work but mechanically it is sound. I say if you can get a 911 that you can hop into and drive with minor issues you will be happier. It would suck to get your first 911 and not be able to drive it immediately.

[blg5035]

Thanks for the input all. 10k was just about what I was thinking, but I knew the guy wouldn't take that, so I didn't even bother offering