Ball joint removal - What's the best order to do things??

[Nickshu]

Replacing ball joints and replacing struts. Starting by removing the ball joints as previous posts indicate this is easiest with the struts still in the car so I can use a jack to hold the tool in place. Just one question:

Should I remove the tapered pinch pin that holds the strut tube to the ball joint before or after I try to remove the big ball joint nut on the bottom? Or does it not matter?

[PorscheGAL]

I would leave it in until the large nut is gone off the bottom.

[john walker's workshop]

get it out of the strut first, then get the bottom nut off. if it's stuck in the strut, you have more leverage with it still attached to the a-arm.

[Nickshu]

Thanks guys.

[trak ratt]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

get it out of the strut first, then get the bottom nut off. if it's stuck in the strut, you have more leverage with it still attached to the a-arm.

X2, getting the ball joint off the strut can be a pain once it's loose from the A-arm.

[Nickshu]

Thanks again. I guess I was lucky b/c my ball joint nuts spun off pretty easily with a little PB Blaster followed by the special tool on my impact wrench. It's all apart on the workbench now!

[86911tlcab]

I used a jack to press against the torque wrench when i was trying to get the appropriate torque on the nut when replacing...if i recall pretty high torque on the nut

[scarceller]

I'm having a hard time separating the ball joint from the strut. I took the pin out with ease but the top of the ball joint won't come out of the strut!

Any advice here? Is it safe to heat the bottom of the strut?

Thanks.

[BK911]

I used a tie rod tool to separate the ball joint from the strut. Only good if you are replacing the ball joints.

[bkreigsr]

Originally Posted by scarceller

I'm having a hard time separating the ball joint from the strut. I took the pin out with ease but the top of the ball joint won't come out of the strut!
Any advice here? Is it safe to heat the bottom of the strut?
Thanks.

On my track car, I had to decrease some of the negative camber (I run close to negative 3deg) to bring the strut back to almost verticle alignment with the ball joint pin.
Bill K

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

On my track car, I had to decrease some of the negative camber (I run close to negative 3deg) to bring the strut back to almost verticle alignment with the ball joint pin.
Bill K

Bill, since my goal is to change the strut, I'll loosen the top and try to drop the top into the fender well to release any tension.

I can't believe how hard it is to get the ball joint out of the strut and nothing is rusted!

Thanks.

[bkreigsr]

It will be easier if you keep the strut bolted in at the top - otherwise you run the risk of pulling the brake hose apart, or ripping it.
Plus, the more you keep bolted up, the more leverage you can apply.
Bill K

[scarceller]

As mentioned I had to remove the top of the strut to relieve the angle tension but even here it took a lot of force with a fork to separate the strut from the ball joint. And the fork destroyed the ball joints rubber boot but they are separated.

So I ordered a new ball joint and ball joint nut to replace the destroyed ball joint. I tried a pipe wrench to remove the ball joint nut but that did not work. What did work was heat the nut and hammer and chisel the nut off.

So now I need a tool to install the new ball joint and nut, any tips here? What tool will work?

Thanks.

[scarceller]

I just ordered this tool:
KD Tools 4 Lug 4WD Spindle Nut Socket 1 2 Ton GM Dana 50 3937 | eBay
it's made by KD Tools part # KD3937 I'll post back results once I get it and use it this week.

[Nickshu]

Originally Posted by scarceller

I just ordered this tool:
KD Tools 4 Lug 4WD Spindle Nut Socket 1 2 Ton GM Dana 50 3937 | eBay
it's made by KD Tools part # KD3937 I'll post back results once I get it and use it this week.

If that works it'll be a bargain. I used the special tool from Pelican, which was around $50. It DID work great, though. I used it on an impact wrench....easy off and easy on. (relatively), off did take some penetrating oil and a bit of work with the impact.

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by Nickshu

If that works it'll be a bargain. I used the special tool from Pelican, which was around $50. It DID work great, though. I used it on an impact wrench....easy off and easy on. (relatively), off did take some penetrating oil and a bit of work with the impact.

I got the nuts off already using heat, PB Blast, Hammer and Chisel but it destroyed the nut! Have new ball joints and nuts on the way as well as the tool.

[Nickshu]

Originally Posted by scarceller

I got the nuts off already using heat, PB Blast, Hammer and Chisel but it destroyed the nut! Have new ball joints and nuts on the way as well as the tool.

Probably a smart choice. Some people have ruined their $50 special tool by using it to remove the nuts. I was lucky and it worked both off and on.

[scarceller]

UPDATE:
This tool works but you need to put a jack under it to really press it against the Gland nut. Then I used a pipe wrench around this socket to loosen and/or tighten the nut. For the money it works OK. Only trick is to be sure it has a lot of upward pressure to keep the tool in place.

Originally Posted by scarceller

I just ordered this tool:
KD Tools 4 Lug 4WD Spindle Nut Socket 1 2 Ton GM Dana 50 3937 | eBay
it's made by KD Tools part # KD3937 I'll post back results once I get it and use it this week.