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Rear main seal oil leak?
After 4,000 miles since rebuild, I’m down my “final” oil drip. Thought it might be coming from the case or the forward stud, so I applied some (generously) Dow Corning 111. The oil looks dirty so it’s likely dripping of the front of the case? Oil is fresh some 6 months ago.
I’ll get some photos of the case when my endoscope charges. Any ideas, and if it is the rear main seal, any harm in leaving it be? The triangle looked pristine when I last checked and I didn’t see a trail of oil from on high. ![]() ![]()
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Mainshaft seal maybe?
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Does it smell like gear oil?
Isn't Dow Corning 111 a silicone lubricant, not a sealant? |
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111 is not a sealant, but I thought it would yield a clue if its weeping from the rear stud or the case. Based on no to little change with vs without the 111, I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) its not seeping from the case seam or the stud. Difficult finding oil behind the exhaust crossover pipe too.
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John,
There is definitely some grime up at the hole between the engine case and the trans. Makes me believe it is likely the mainshaft seal. Given it is, as long as I do not let the oil level get low, the harm seems minimal to leave it as is a while? Other than I wanted a drip free rebuild ![]()
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Mike..it is really possible that your trans.t/o bearing tube is leaking -- just a guess now until you clarify if it is engine or gear oil.On the tube is a seal plus little O-ring many people do not know-or do not replace this one...
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 645 miles...807 319 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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I does not smell like gear oil. The transmission was rebuilt by a pro at the same time, hope he replaced said o-ring. I'll double check the smell again. I do not want to get low on gear oil and not know it! Update: Trans build list has a 999-701-359-40; 915 T/o Sleeve o-ring charge for $3.65. So I'll assume it was definately replaced. Thanks Oh and the seal I used was an Erling, did not use the one which came with the gasket set.
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BareRearedRookie Last edited by mike sampsel; 04-25-2023 at 10:11 AM.. |
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Quote:
Ivan
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Use a black light on the drip. Some trans fluid fluoresces while engine oil doesn't unless you add dye.
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Anyone know if Kendall florescees?
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well.if it the crank seal you will be annoyed by the smell as you can tell it drips on the cross member
a lot of peeps drive with this leak but i`m sure you would not;-) ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 645 miles...807 319 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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Humm, I wonder if there is a “worthwhile” flywheel upgrade. This might make the effort to get to the crank seal more liked. Suspect the stock flywheel is hard to beat though.
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Mike, when you pull the flywheel, I can’t recall telling you to JB weld the end plugs of the oil gallies.
There is 3 plugs behind the flywheel. I chased a leak there in the past. Bruce |
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Looks like you thought to tell me. ![]()
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Mike is it me or not, I do i see the seal too deep inside?
It should be flush with the case Ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 645 miles...807 319 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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like this Mike i just finished 1982 engine
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Ouch, so maybe I pushed the seal in too far? This is the only pic I have.
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Use factory Porsche seal, flush with the case.
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Ivan,
This is the Porsche seal? Do you prefer it to the Erling now? And if I replace the seal, is there a recommended sealant for the case seam, in case it's oozing? Mike
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