Pelican Parts Forums - Steering alignment advice

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Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsjmc (Post 7778042)

Again keep it simple . Add toe in first .

My idea is even simpler... let's look at the post-alignment numbers first. The problem should be obvious...

JR

Quote:

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 7778046)

My idea is even simpler... let's look at the post-alignment numbers first. The problem should be obvious...

JR

Maybe.
But I expect the printout will show castor close to equal but low,camber within spec and toe within spec( which is almost zero to start with). rear alignment will likely be within spec as no mention has been made of any measured error other than low castor on the front.
There is a reason you should test drive a car after an alignment .

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsjmc (Post 7778032)

Unless the nose is down like a jacked up "Starskey and Hutch" hotrod that is unlikely the problem. Look at simple first and add some toe in.
If I recall the spec for the old chassis(torsion bar) is something like 6 deg pos castor. Anything above about 4 deg should be sufficient to drive straight.
I,ve seen 3/4 deg difference from one alignment rack to another on the same car and same day.

It seems that a castor angle less than 6 degrees would indicate a fairly nose down chassis attitude. Also, the further you get from acceptable factory specs, unintended consequences often result.

These suggestions presented here are close. When I align them with my alignment machine, the first settings I perform are Caster (move the tops of the struts as far back toward the rear of the car as possible), then I set them the same. Spec calls for approximately 6° (going off of memory). Then I set camber (moving the tops of the struts toward the center of the car). Again, I see what the machine says and make them equal. Since both of these adjustments have an effect on TOE, I perform the TOE adjustment LAST. Once done, I re-run the swing program and check (and more times than not, make some final small adjustments).

This of course MUST be done AFTER corner-balancing or altering ride height front or rear since that also effects Caster/Camber/Toe. Once lowered, many of these cars may not be able to achieve factory Caster/Camber numbers without altering the car or suspension. The upper strut mount holes in the body can be ground larger to a point and the upper strut mounts can be changed out to achieve more negative camber. Also, if the rubber bushings in your front suspension are no longer round or are deteriorated, they may need to be changed before your car may be able to be brought back into spec.

Before any specific suggestions can be made, the printout information should be located and posted. Otherwise, try to make all the settings side-to-side equal.

Spec is 6 degrees, 5 minutes, plus or minus 15 minutes. 30 minutes total difference side to side, which I think is ridiculous. It takes nothing much to get them the same.

JR

More good advice. I shall get him to add a little more toe in before I start messing around with anything else.
Thanks to everyone!