CIS reassembly
 

I am finally putting my 3.0 back in my 82 SC after 3 months of replacing seals, clutch and a host of other maintenance items. I was also out of the country visiting South Africa for a month during this 3 months, so all is not fresh in my memory. It is a good thing I took many photos during the disassemble. Wayne's book the Bentley and laptop are in the garage with me, but I still have questions. I replaced the air box with new pop off valve.

1. Should the intake runners be attached to the engine first? or can the CIS be put together and attached as a unit. What are some of the best ways to put the CIS back on the engine? Order of reassembly would be helpful.

I am sure more questions will come up during the engine reinsertion into the car. I did not remove the transmission but did disconnect the coupler.

Any bits of wisdom about where to grease, order of reassembly or others experiences will be appreciated. This is my first engine drop with a 911.

Thanks in advance,
Bill

It might depend on if the engine is in the car or out.

In my case, with the engine still in the car, I tried to reassemble the whole unit out of the car but when it came time to install, none of the intake runners lined up perfectly and it absolutely would not install. Some guys have suggested building a template of the heads but that was too much work for me.

So, I found that the best way to reinstall was to install the 3 passenger side intake runners first and get them torqued down. Then I installed the airbox to the 3 runners and made sure everything was clamped tight. I believe two runners have the screws to the hose clamps facing forward (to the rear of car) and the remaining one faces backwards.

At this point, you might want to install all the peripherial equipment like various air valves, etc.. I have a '74 and it doesn't have any of that stuff so mine was an easier install.

Last, slide the rubber hose/gaskets onto the remaining driver side intakes. You need to slide them beyond their final resting place so that you can fit the intake runners. Get each runner installed and torqued down. Then, slid the rubber hose/gaskets onto the airbox and tighten.

After the airbox is secure, you can install all of the throttle linkage and electrical connections.

Hope this helps a little.

CIS Install
 

Bill, I installed mine as a assembled unit, though it took a fair bit of wiggling to get it to seat. It was not as easy as I would have thought! I had the engine in but lowered quite a bit. I replaced all the rubber, the blown airbox, reassembled the whole thing and installed it in a day.

These two guys did it their way and I am a third, and did it my way.

All were successful. It's just a puzzle.

Start fitting stuff up on the engine without clamping things down. Make sure the hose clamps are positioned in a way that they can be rotated to get the screwdriver in them when you are finally done.

#6 intake runner - back nut is the hardest to access, so plan around that.

It's pretty doable, just tedious.

C.i.s.
 

I did a partial engine drop that lowered the engine about 4 inches which helped.

Install the case breather hose first other wise you have to prop up the air box so you can make the connection.

Start by installing number 6 runner tighten the intake nuts.
( On my 1980sc they were 12mm)
Then install number 5 and then number 4.

With the air box out prepare the air box by installing the vacuum tubes and the gas lines which are toward the fire wall.

Lift the air box in and tighten the rubber runner sleeves to the right side (Passenger side for US car) The right brace is a bit difficult so take your time connecting it to the rubber mount.

Install the number 3 intake.
I applied some vaseline to the rubber intake sleeve
and pulled it back over the runner and when it is in position I pulled it back and tightened the clamp.

Position clamps on sleeves so you can tighten them from the rear of the car.

Flex or swivel 1/4" and 3/8" sockets with extensions are essential for tightening the intake nuts while the engine is in the car.

Ratcheting Box ends with articulating heads also come in handy.

After it is installed reach around and reconnect all the push on electrical connections.

Check for gas leaks.
and then check for vacuum leaks.
Take it slow and you should be fine.

Thank you guys for replying and giving me some of your experience. The engine is out of the car and on a lift table. I am sure it will be a jigsaw puzzle. I will take it slow, put on the oldies radio station and pop a Lagunitas IPA . I will try the different techniques you have suggested. Getting it right is the mission and having that sense of accomplishment. I tell myself this is fun. The photos have been a big help so far. Cleaning all the parts has been the most tedious part of the job.

After submitting my post I went riding on my Arabian Endurance horse out in the hills behind my place. Awaiting words of encouragement to finally get this car back on the road and stop driving a pick up truck. I will get back on the Porsche engine assembly tomorrow. I'll will let you know how it goes. Thanks again :cool:
Bill

Cis installation engine out......
 

Installing the CIS with the engine removed......
Ahh.....now you can work like a Gentleman.

Bill,

I reinstalled my '82 CIS as a first timer this summer. With the engine out, I recommend assembling the runners & airbox before putting it on the engine for the following reason.

The runner to engine connections are no brainers; gasket and nuts torqued to spec. Once on the studs, you know you're good. The runners to airbox via rubber boots are a little more "by feel" in that you want the band clamps tight enough but not too tight and it's possible to push the rubber boot too far onto the airbox or runners.

I assembled the airbox with the runners as flat on the floor as possible, and then moved it to the engine. Where a runner did not fit easily over the studs, I loosened the band clamp slightly to permit rotation/adjustment, but since I had already established "the feel" off the engine I knew just where the rubber boot wanted to be. Also, adjusting the outer runners is obviously easier than the center ones, so pre-assembly avoids having to tinker with the center ones.

Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.

Charles

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385781796.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385781933.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385781995.jpg

Bill,

With the engine out, putting the CIS unit back together is not a problem for anyone who was able to do an engine drop safely. A lot of good ideas and suggestions were given to you. Watch out for loose parts like nut or washer that could get astray and get into the cylinder head during assembly.

I'll be watching this project with some interest because putting the engine back in a 911 is not that easy even with a helper by your side compared to doing the engine/transmission combo. Keep us posted.

Tony

^ Hi Tony! That's you're airbox in those photos! Still running great thanks to all your help.

Charles

Assemble everything as shown in the photos posted by Charles, just don't tighten the clamps any more than necessary to keep the parts from falling out. Once you get that assembly back on the motor, loosen and re-adjust the clamps, then tighten everything down and start hanging the other pieces on it.

JR

I got the CIS put back together this weekend. Thanks to every one that gave advise.
The photos and approach Charles provides was my starting point and worked well for me. I still need to research where the vacuum lines that T in the front of the photo go ( small blue line T to a blue and black line). I still need to derust the engine tin and repaint. I was thinking a por-15 treatment with the hi gloss would hold up fine.

I bought the car in Seekonk MA in 2008 when I was working in Cambridge, MA and living in Humarock. I brought it back home when I returned to CA in 2010. It had 104,00 when it became mine and it as around 160,000 now. I have taken it across country and since have traversed the length of CA several times.

PO repairs to the air box finally failed and oil leaks became unacceptable. Hence the necessity to pull the engine and make necessary repairs. I did not pull the engine because of my previous experiences with bugs and buses in the 70'S. I also have a 68 912 and pull engine only when necessary. We will see how the 911 goes. I will be sure to enlist a couple of friends and hope for no surprises.

Thanks again,
Bill













http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386024854.jpg

The blue vacuum line in your photo starts at a port on the throttle body (port on rear). Then it T's and one section goes to the deceleration valve and the other goes to the base port on the WUR. At least that is how it is routed on my '74.

Since your CIS is a later version, the vacuum line may route slightly differently to an additional device but the path ends up at the same place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386034064.jpg


I see one line goes to the deceleration valve. The other connection in the diagram is not labeled. What is that?

No idea what's that in the picture. On my '80 SC, the other line goes to the actuator of the cruise control.

- Manfred

Wur.........
 

Bill,

What's the number on the WUR? Do you have a USA or RoW car? Picture would be great. Thanks.

Tony

Hi Tony,
It is a USA car. I found another copy of the diagram and it has a #15 not on the one I posted. # 15 is the cruse control. I think I have the answer now.

Bill,

The Por-15 would be worthless on the engine tin - and worthless overall on any aspect of your car. You would be better off with high-heat engine block paint. Do yourself a favor and have it powder coated for around $40 and save yourself the headache - trust me.

How did you get access to the number 6 intake to head nuts while the engine was in the car?