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Free minder
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What glue for my Targa skin ?
Okay, I just received my domestic vinyl Taga skin and foam from Original fit Interiors, and if saturday is hot enough, I will install it (it is about time, check the old one out!). I`ve read many posts and tech articles about the topic. Many people do not recommend the use of 3M spray glue, but cement glue. I will follow the advise, but what do you call cement glue exactly ? epoxy, cyanolite ? Could anyone give me a brand and where to buy it. This was my first question. There may be other ones while the project goes on...
![]() Aurel 78 SC Targa |
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Too big to fail
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Free minder
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Thanks Thom, I`ve read your web page already, nice job ! The only doubt I had was that others don`t recommend the 3M spray glue. They say that with that glue, the skin may lose its tightness with time. What`s your opinion about it ? Did yours hold well ? Would you reuse the same glue if you had to do it again ?
Aurel |
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Too big to fail
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I had no problems in the time I drove the car with the top (2 years or so) and it's running around now on another Pelicanite's car. I've used Super90 on other stuff, and it's pretty damn tenacious when used correctly.
Check back in 20 years. ![]()
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,941
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Failing that stuff, try an Auto Upholstery shop, bringing a jar with a lid, into which they can pour a bit of their industrial level glue. I believe it is very close to the 3M stuff. Purchase several small (1/2") paint brushes to put the stuff on the top.
Have you purchased new pins for the front? How about new pin covers for the back? Also, if you wish, this is the time to strip and polish the rain gutters if you want to add any alum/chrome accents to your car (Martha talking here...Jeez!). Do remember to start at the front, getting the angle of the front bead JUST right at about 45degree or a bit less. It will slowly crawl up to level and catch wind over time, but if you put the bead too angled (let's say 90degrees down) you will force the bead up when the top goes in, causing bubbles just to the rear of the front bead. I used Thom's instructions to good effect. What a great project - good luck! John
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,492
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3M Super90 is the only way to go. I have used it on 2 targa tops. The brush on stuff just doesn't give as good a coverage as the spray.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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Targa adhesive
I did my Targa skin last year and used 3M Super77 spray adhesive and am very happy with the results - I am sure it was easier and less messy than brush application would be. My Targa skin is still tight and has no imperfections, not sure if it was beginners luck but the top came out almost perfect. It took slightly over 3 hours to complete.
I had never attempted the job before - he most important thing I learned is to take your time, heat the skin in the sun and fix to the targa with the frame not quite 'locked'. Good luck |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fullerton, CA, USA
Posts: 319
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The stuff is called "Contact Cement" and you can get it at any hardware store. It's about $6 a a quart or so.
The trick is you apply it to both surfaces and let it dry to the touch. Not tacky. About 15-20 mins. The reason they call it "contact" is, if applied properly, you get one shot at mating the parts. Once mated, that's it. It's industrial strength stuff. This is what the pro's use. I know guys sware by 3M but given enough time, sun heat and weathering it will give way. It will last 2-3 years max if you're lucky. And you get to do it all over again. The reason some say the tops still look good, and they probably do, is not because of the 3M glue. It's because of the side rails/ rain gutters and clips that are holding the skin on, not the 3M glue. You know it's a 3M job when you see a Targa doing about 60mph down the freeway and the Skin is billowing and floating about 2 inches above the frame. Remember also 3M makes a couple of grades of the same adhesive. Watch out ! It's o.k. for other stuff but not tops. |
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Registered
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3M Super Trim Adhesive PN 08090.
Used the 3M super trim Part No. 08090 for my skin recover/rebuilt last year. Worked well. Supposed to be heat resistant. Seems to be holding up fine.
There is another flavor, general trim adhesive P/N 08089. Used that on the internal vinyl trim pieces and it is not nearly as strong. You can peel this back shortly after bonding and redo. With the 08090, it is very very difficult to peel back the bond. |
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Free minder
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Here is my work
I recovered the Targa top yesterday. I used the 3M super90 spray glue. I did not use burlap, but polyester fabric instead. I learned a lot, and made a few mistakes. I should have started earlier to have more sun to strech the vinyl. But I am quite happy with the result
![]() Thanks to all ! ![]() Aurel |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fullerton, CA, USA
Posts: 319
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Looks good. what did you do to the drip rails ?? did you strip them or is that just flash-back from the camera??
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Semper drive!
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What an OUTSTANDING job!
I can only hope mine comes out looking as good when I finally get around to it. Very encouraging! Randy
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84 944 - Alpine White 86 Carrera Targa - Guards Red - My Pelican Gallery - (Gone, but never forgotten ![]() One Marine's View Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum |
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Free minder
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I sanded the rails, because the black paint was already scratched from storing the top vertically on the concrete, a stupid mistake I made at the beginning
![]() ![]() Aurel 78 SC Targa |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fullerton, CA, USA
Posts: 319
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Yeah, I noticed the corners but didn't want to get picky with you. This is the way others learn. Don't feel bad. How did the polyester work out ??
The stock drip rails have some kind of thick black bullet-proof coating on them. I'd like to know what that stuff is. Mine are looking kinda crappy and would like to re-coat them. My top gets stored 8 mos out of the year so I hung 2 small 4" shelf "L" brackets on a wall appropriately spaced out, padded them slightly with some foam, and hang the top flush against the wall by the padded latch bar (front). Keeps it out of the way and protected. There's no good way to just lay it on the garage floor. Glad to hear your coming over to the "Dark-Side" with stock Stainless Steel. Some folks just don't know how $hitty spray-painted roll bars look. Never seen a good looking one. Chips-cracks-dripruns-fading. YUK ! |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,941
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Sure, don't feel bad: mine was the same way. When I went to restretch, the material was so well set that I could shave all sorts of material off the corner and get a better fit.
However, did you put fresh pins in the front? If so you might try a bit of grease on the pin and see if the corners don't set in a bit more. Or make sure the pins are centered to the holes (the pins should find the holes no problem, without a lot of fiddling). I found that I had to sand a bit off the pins to get them to seat fully as well. Just a thought. Really it is the alum plates that dictate the way the top fits to the rails, etc. That is a bit much for me at this stage of Pcar ownership. John
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Too big to fail
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A fresh top is always a beautiful sight!
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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