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Yes that is Pasha cloth
 
redstack's Avatar
 
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Which discs to choose for an 84 and more

So using the Carrera Brake wizard I note that there are three different brands and prices for front rotors

Porsche 911 & Carrera Brake Pads & Rotors - Page 4

The wizard uses the middle one, but are there really any differences? In the end I would probably just follow their recommendation.

Then there is the question about pad wear sensors. I have the older slotted kind, and so would probably just buy new of the same, I mean they are only $6.25. Any reason to not just make a jumper wire and forget the sensors? I mean, obviously as I intend to autox the car I don't need a sensor to tell me when it's time for new pads.



But all four of the grommets that mount them to the chassis fell apart when I was checking the brakes. See that little bit of red where the grommet was? Any thoughts on finding new grommets? I can't find them in the catalog on here.

Old 12-17-2013, 09:44 PM
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I have an 84, and replaced discs with Zimmerman drilled, replaced flexible lines, found the grommets at the hardware store. The sensors are easy to slot in once you take a hard look at it.
Buy the caliper rebuild kits, and flush the whole system with blue if you can get it. Make sure you have the proper wrenches. I also bought a Motive power bleeder, a must. Then bed the crap out of the new pads. Buy lots of brake cleaner, and foil Safeway cooking pans, rags etc.

Rich
Old 12-18-2013, 05:04 AM
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For the fronts buy, caliper rebuild kits, new bearings, new rear seal, plenty of grease along with your discs, pads, lines, sensors. Give the bearings a hard look, repack if ok.

I looked at the super brake kit packages then added and deleted stuff from there.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-SBK911-06N&catalog_description=&Super%2520Brake%2520Kit%252C%2520%2539%2531%2531%2 520Carrera%2520%2528%2531%2539%2538%2534%252D%2538 %2539%2529

Paul’s Garage Blog » How to replace the front brakes and wheel bearings on a Porsche 911SC

Rich

Last edited by Rich Gas; 12-18-2013 at 05:54 AM..
Old 12-18-2013, 05:18 AM
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I jumped my pad sensor wires on my 84 about 10 years ago and have never looked back.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:49 AM
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Pad Sensor's

I also dumped the sensors, couldn't tell whether they worked anyway. Simply unplugged mine and didn't replace. If you do any DE or AX, you'll have the wheels off plenty often to address brakes.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:54 AM
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Just as easy to plug the $6 part in...
Old 12-18-2013, 05:55 AM
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I found the sensors on close-out sale for less than $4 and bought two sets. Replaced all the old and broken ones, and have an extra set for the future.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:07 AM
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I forgot about the wheel bearings. I'll add those.
Old 12-18-2013, 09:07 AM
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Here is what I will use on my race car, anything else I have tried (slotted/drilled/frozen) cracks much earlier... not worth more $$
Brakes 911-352-041-08-M359 911 Carrera Rear Brake Rotor (1984-89) with Coat Z $95.00
Brakes 911-351-041-22-M359 911 Carrera Front Brake Rotor (1984-89) with Coat Z $77.50
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Last edited by GaryR; 12-18-2013 at 10:48 AM..
Old 12-18-2013, 10:46 AM
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Hey Gary, I've heard the drilled rotors crack, but have you ever experienced this yourself? Just curious. I ordered mine separate from the kit. Then I found out people have problems with them on the track, but not so much on the street. I also read that depending on the position of the crack you can still run them.

Track guys... Classic

I gave him those part numbers... But, my drilled rotors look fast, that's why I like them.

Last edited by Rich Gas; 12-18-2013 at 01:12 PM..
Old 12-18-2013, 11:39 AM
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@GaryR Those are the rotors from the super kit and so I figured they must be pretty workable. I imagine that it will take me about 6 months until I feel the car is ready for a track day, And that my skills are up to attempting same in a 911.

My thoughts are to get just some decent street pads, and then when the time comes, clean up the rotors and switch to a more sport pad, something like the Hawk HP+

Thanks for the advice.
Old 12-18-2013, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gas View Post
Hey Gary, I've heard the drilled rotors crack, but have you ever experienced this yourself? Just curious. I ordered mine separate from the kit. Then I found out people have problems with them on the track, but not so much on the street. I also read that depending on the position of the crack you can still run them.

Track guys... Classic

I gave him those part numbers... But, my drilled rotors look fast, that's why I like them.
I've cracked drilled and slotted, and frozen slotted. I generally wear the stock rotors down (I use pretty aggressive pads) before any serious looking cracks show up. For stree use I suppose you can use anything, but other than looking cool why bother with anything but OEM?
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:28 PM
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Yeah, they look cool, that's why I bought them. I bought stainless gas lines from Len, stainless brake lines, Foil sound pad... I like shiny things. My car is red too...

I'm monitoring their condition. I'm running the recommended street pads so I should be ok for awhile. Zimmerman makes great rotors. The coating is still intact. 1500 miles, no problems.

Last edited by Rich Gas; 12-18-2013 at 07:30 PM..
Old 12-18-2013, 05:31 PM
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Was just trying to help the guy out. I don't give a crap about your racing history. Good for you. I don't know what you're talking about either, so we're even.

What does what mean?

I'm slightly offended that you bring up my private parts.

Last edited by Rich Gas; 12-18-2013 at 07:37 PM..
Old 12-18-2013, 07:25 PM
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Who are you talking to?
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:32 AM
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Nice! Finally.... I like your style Gary... I like your style... I may let you teach me driving skills, yet...you
Old 12-19-2013, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redstack View Post
My thoughts are to get just some decent street pads, and then when the time comes, clean up the rotors and switch to a more sport pad, something like the Hawk HP+

Thanks for the advice.
Back on topic.. Street pads are best for you until you get into more performance driving like AX or DE. Track pads need to be warm to operate efficiently, stock pads work well cold. I would suggest flushing your system out and using something like ATE Gold (not blue, it stains the reservoir) as it will be fine for street and for beginning the next level. Cheap and better than stock fluid.
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:00 AM
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Brake rotors are one part that I don't consider using aftermarket "equivalents". I've had too many problems with them, and exactly zero problems with the genuine Porsche versions.

For what it's worth...

JR
Old 12-19-2013, 05:07 AM
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Yes that is Pasha cloth
 
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First thing I did when I got the car, was flush out some very old brake fluid and get the right front caliper unstuck. I installed speed bleeders because I have had such good luck with them in the past. Make it a piece of cake to flush out fluid that was sitting in the calipers after a track day.

While doing all that I realized that I would indeed need to rebuild the calipers and then rotors and pads. Street pads should be fine for the first bit until I get a chance to start PCA DE.

I'm using the Super kit list for my basis and then add and subtracting as needed. As per advice on here, I'm going to add bearings to the list as well.
Old 12-19-2013, 08:47 PM
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Yes that is Pasha cloth
 
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Ya know tho, no one ever did come up with a reason / difference between the $63, $77 or $80 rotors which all seem to be from Germany.

Old 12-19-2013, 08:48 PM
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