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I don't know if things changed for an '87, but in my '77 (that is my link you posted), only the fuel lines are clamped by the front tab on the upper left. The throttle rod runs independently through three plastic bushings that are clamped to the left side of the tunnel below the fuel lines (the rear bushing can be seen in the 2nd photo). You don't want the throttle rod to be touching anything but those three greased bushings that it runs through in the tunnel (and the hand throttle clamp, if so equipped). The brake line is clamped in along the right side of the tunnel, with rubber sleeves at the clamp points.

I your picture 2 you state "The rear I don't see any bracket through the access hole", but the fuel line "bracket" is that piece of metal right in the middle of the picture - the two fuel lines route through that to hold them in the upper left corner of the tunnel. IIRC, there is a similar channel in the center of the tunnel (near hand brake) for the fuel lines. For obvious reasons, you don't want the fuel lines sagging down to allow either the throttle or shift rod to rub on them.

Btw, what type of hose are you using for the fuel line? I may have more photos from when I did this job, let me know if you need more info.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:17 PM
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This may help explain how these lines run thru the tunnel.............





Saved from a post by another Pelican a long while back. Many thanks, they really helped me back then.

Len

Old 02-03-2015, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearya View Post
Interesting. I thought model years that late had an improved plastic that lasted a loooooong time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951 View Post
Yeah, if there's one thing I've learned here in the past couple of months is that polyamide is pretty robust stuff. In retrospect, I could have probably sectioned off the front lines, had Len make me up a new set and just secure them with clamps, but my last car burnt up and I'm SUPER paranoid about this stuff right now. Secondly, I really liked Len's lines and the flexibility of having the connectors for future projects. Finally, since most of the preparatory work would be the same for replacing the front and rear lines.(with the exception of removing the interior stuff-most of which, turned out I didn't need to remove), I decided to go for it.
I was also under the impression that the later OEM polyamide lines (in an '81 in my case) weren't a major concern. After seeing Leaky's 951 barbeque, I'm feeling the paranoia creeping in... a must do for all 911s maybe?
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:09 PM
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I just got my first 911 project, "barn find", I been reading that its not the best yr to have but I'm happy with it. Its a 76' 911s coupe that sat about 10 yrs . I should start another post on my bringing it back to life! Anyway before all of that , I need to replace my fuel lines in the tunnel too, how can I get me the "improved from factory" lines you have pictured? How can I get a hold of the other person "Len" who makes it? Still trying to figure out posting on these forums.
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:41 AM
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Great info guys, I'm about to do this with braided stainless line (I already have a lot on shelf) and while I did the same job several times back in the day, this is the first time in a while. Pulled my old lines out already since that was how I "did it before" and the pics and diagrams are very helpful. I also have the engine and gas tank out, and will probably drop the front crossmember and steering rack too.
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Old 03-01-2015, 03:53 PM
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Leakyseals951,

PM sent to you with a couple of questions.

Cheers
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Here are the M14 connectors to help pull through the new tunnel lines.

interesting as I am about to do this..... got the tunnel lines and other sections of fuel lines for my 930 from Ken.

trying to finalize the fitment of a couple to send back to Ken for steel braid and final crimping. but other projects have been taking prioroty, so the 930 gets whatever spare time I have waiting for parts for the other cars.

I got a nut the correct size and knew I would have to grind it down small enough to fit through the tunnel.

in my case I expect the process to be a bit easier as I am totally dismantling the car for glass out repaint, engine/tranny rebuilds and upgrading the front suspension.
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:40 AM
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in case someone seeing this thread and has this info / pic.

I did not take a pic of how the fuel line from the tunnel line is routed to the fuel pump. got good pics of everything else.

anyone got a pic? and I know the fuel pump is in backward, that has been rectified.

my guess is no real trick. but want to be sure I route and restrain properly.

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78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-08-2016, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 911tracker85 View Post
in case someone seeing this thread and has this info / pic.

I did not take a pic of how the fuel line from the tunnel line is routed to the fuel pump. got good pics of everything else.

anyone got a pic? and I know the fuel pump is in backward, that has been rectified.

my guess is no real trick. but want to be sure I route and restrain properly.

Does this help?
Old 03-08-2016, 01:59 PM
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forgot to mention it is a 930, so my pic is of the rear fuel pump.

I am good with fitting the new hoses on the front fuel pump, as well as all the other engine bay fuel lines.

thanks for trying...
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84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
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86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-09-2016, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Topgun63 View Post
I did this job in about 2 hours with the engine/trans out. The hardest part was getting the sealing rings out of the tunnel. There are 4 in all i finally just pushed them in with a flat blade screwdriver and retrieved them later. Of course, I am replacing them with new ones. The shifter, e-brake, rear cover and seats were removed. I used a few wraps of electrical tape to connect the old line to the new one and after cutting the front lines, keeping them as long as I could, pulled the lines through with a friend pushing from the rear. Each line took about 2 minutes to pull through. Thanks Len for a quality product, great service and awesome communication.

Where did you get your "sealing rings"?

Thanks in advance


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Old 03-09-2016, 02:05 PM
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Here is the part number for the grommet:
911-356-202-03-OEM
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:09 PM
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I have a set of 4 brand-new sealing rings/grommets available if you're interested. I am going to have to make something custom for my application, so no longer need them. Please PM for details.
Old 03-09-2016, 02:11 PM
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not an easy project.

I installed aluminum hardlines in mine. 1/2" diameter did not help matters - 3/8" would have been fine. I wanted to run 1/2" in case I did a motor upgrade that required more fuel.

I did mine with the engine and transmission out of the car - made it so much easier. However it still took me an entire weekend just to get the hardlines in the tunnel.

good luck
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:16 PM
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Okay- so I am going to replace my main tunnel fuel lines tomorrow. Any sugges...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrino View Post
I have a set of 4 brand-new sealing rings/grommets available if you're interested. I am going to have to make something custom for my application, so no longer need them. Please PM for details.

Thanks!!
Ordering lines today and got some other parts needed for this project from some great Forum members. Will be posting my fuel line adventures on this thread in hopes of tracking my progress. Between this and rebuilding my front rack, this oughta be a fun ride.

Cheers everyone,
Bugs

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Last edited by bugstrider; 03-09-2016 at 05:05 PM..
Old 03-09-2016, 03:19 PM
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I bought replacement lines from the host and planned to do this job a few weeks ago but I just couldn't see how in the world I was going to make the rear connections just outside the tunnel with way to many things in the way and zero room. How do you guys do this? What am I missing? I am thinking I'll wait till next winter when I plan to pull the engine and transmission. But, if there is a way to do it now I'd prefer that. Any advice?

Mark
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:43 AM
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You need a flashlight and a "helper" and a few assorted "Flare Nut" wrenches.

If you support the trans and remove the trans mount it will give you room to work.

As mentioned earlier, push the old grommets into the tunnel and access them from inside.

In the tunnel you must pull back the metal tabs to release the original lines. The Porsche replacements cannot be attached directly to the old line so you must use a "fish line" to pull through as the originals are pulled out at the front.

You then use the "fish line" to pull the replacements back through from the front.

Once the new are in place you can push in the new grommets.

Not too bad a job, just a bit tedious.

Hope this helps.

Len

Old 03-10-2016, 06:13 AM
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Bob Cox,

One thing to note about the rear fuel pump inlet line is that on my '77 the female coupling nut on the hose was 16mm on the OEM hose. When I did my fuel line replacement job a couple of years ago, Len could only get the 180* end with a 14mm coupling nut. I had to change the adapter fitting going into the pump to 14mm. I drilled the adapter fitting through hole out to a similar diameter of the original 16mm adapter to keep any flow restriction in check. I have had no problems with flow as my 55 lb/hr injectors are maxed out (need to upgrade) on my EFI conversion. Below is a picture of the different hoses. Maybe Len has fixed this since then, but I am not sure. So check that out.




The other thing I did was change the front fuel pump to the '80 - on version which has a 12mm banjo outlet verses to 10mm banjo on the original pump. I did this because with EFI you run a lower pump pressure than CIS and I wanted to make sure this was not a flow restriction.

I took some pictures when I did my fuel line replacement but I do not have one that shows the line runs to and from the rear pump. I could take some the next time I have the car in the air.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:30 AM
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Its strange why Porsche used this M16 fitting as the hoses are all DN6 and M14 is the standard DIN size for DN6. They have a similar combination with the Carrera 3.2 fuel system. Just makes for added expense, unless they want them unique as to sell more parts.

I was surprised to see the M10 Banjo at the outlet of the front pump as well. I trust the M12 Banjo is working well.

Len

Old 03-10-2016, 07:50 AM
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Hi,

I have a question regarding the fuel lines: my floor is out and I inspected them and they look fine. I replaced the brake line, but should I also replace the metal fuel lines even if they look solid? It's a 1972 model, and the fuel lines do not have screw fittings at the ends. I guess they rubber fuel hose was fitted on and secured with a fastener, any confirmation?

Thanks for the photos, they really help!

Dario
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:53 AM
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