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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Motorcity R.I.P.
Posts: 608
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Oil Temp. part 2
This goes under the..."If it's not one thing it's another" category.
Since I’ve had my car back together and running the engine oil temps have been through the roof. Under normal driving conditions the oil temp gauge reads just one indicator below the red mark! So I put the car on stands today to do a little troubleshooting. This is what I discovered… After the car has warmed up the oil tank and rear lines are fire hot. I have a large external oil cooler installed up front, so I checked it’s temp. Sure enough it was cold to the touch. I checked the lines that run down the right side of the car and they too where cold. So behind the right rear wheel I checked before and after the Oil Thermostat. Hopefully I’m describing this part correctly, I’ve also seen this labeled as an Oil Pressure Relief Valve? On an 85 930, which is it? It would appear that this valve is preventing oil from getting to the front cooler. Is this a common problem? How can I test this device? What’s involved in removing and replacing it? Can I just take this apart and clean it? |
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08-31-2002, 01:27 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX USA
Posts: 9,804
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Hopefully you aren't in an area where salt is applied to roads during the winter!
Yes, there is a relief valve in addition to a thermostat in the housing. And, yes, it can be removed, cleaned and tested. But, if the nuts are corroded to the housing ... a Dremel tool or die grinder is often the only way to get the lines loose! If there is visible corrosion on the nuts or thermostat housing ... I would suggest applying vinegar with an acid bruish ... every five minutes, for at least an hour, prior to applying force to the fittings.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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08-31-2002, 01:51 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MA USA
Posts: 2,938
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I just had the same problem with a frozen thermo. I wanted my car on the road as soon a posible so I bought a new thermostat. I always use heat on the nuts. Works every time.
A friend of mine had the same problem with a frozen thermo. He took another approch. He took the valve apart without removing the thermo. He replace the piston only.
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Dean 911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno, |
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08-31-2002, 04:22 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Motorcity R.I.P.
Posts: 608
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Early S,
Nope, the car doesn’t see winter. The connectors look pretty clean. Blown, Heat on the nuts… that sound painful.  I plan to at least open it up tomorrow to see what’s inside. Hopefully I won’t have to replace the whole thing. Thanks for the tips. |
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08-31-2002, 06:06 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MA USA
Posts: 2,938
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Try it, you'll like it.
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Dean 911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno, |
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08-31-2002, 08:05 PM
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