Thoughts on shifter couplers W/ photos

[redstack]

After collecting all the bushings and a set of the coupler-whisper bushing, yesterday I started on the job.
The first thing I ran into was that the center console was much more difficult than one would imagine, because the screws were handy enough, but the act of lifting off the console was made very difficult by the wires of the A/C, which didn't leave much room for moving things around. The emergency brake handle seemed to add to the problem. Finally got if off without ripping any wires loose.

Next oddity, everything I read described the the carrier bearing bracket as being attached to the center console tunnel. But my 84 had it attached to the shift tower, and so I couldn't pull that tower loose until I undid those bolts. I am wondering how easy those will be to get back together once new bushings are in.

After that it was fairly straight forward. Working the allen wrench in the small tunnel area was a pain, I can see a need for a set of allens that fit in a ratchet wrench.

The coupler back aft there, came apart easy enough. As per advice I marked the shaft where the met the clamp to keep track of the alignment. I used a felt pen which proved worthless because my coupler had grease all over it and the pen just wiped off in the process of removing it. It needs realigning anyway so I'll see how that goes.

So finally I had all the bushings out and ready to be replaced. What do you think? Were they ready for replacement? I particularly like the soda can shims that were made for the coupler.



I'll let you know how it goes back together. I have great hope for the new improved shifting, because mine was pretty bad.

[redstack]

Got the coupler together, but it's much stiffer than Ed's video, hope it will be alright. I can't see where I'm going to get any more clearance between the center shaft and the aluminum housing for the bushings.

[redstack]

Got the carrier bearing in. Used the hot water and three hands method, which seemed to work OK.

Ed recommends that you put the aluminum part of the coupler under a heat lamp, I used a heat gun and went until my gloved hands couldn't hold it. That did help some. I wonder if I should have put the bushings in the freezer as well, but didn't want to risk shattering them or something. Mine were a very tight fit.

[redstack]

Next will be trying to adjust the linkage using these directions from Isf911

"Just follow these instructions from the Tech Info Center. I have used this technique a few times now and it works. You might have to play around a bit to get it perfect.

Shift Linkage - Adjustment

1. Remove the cover plate on the tunnel, behind the front seats.

2. Place gearshift in neutral.

3. Loosen the shift rod clamp. Turn the shift rod (by grasping the coupler) to the right, as seen in the direction of driving.

4. Move gearshift lever to the left until it touches the stop, and move it fore-and-aft until the lower section is vertical when viewed from the side (the fore-and-aft adjustment can be modified to suit the driver, provided sufficient length of the shifter rod remains inside the clamp).

5. Lightly tighten the clamp.

6. Check if equally long travel is evident in gears 1-4, and that 5th and reverse can be easily engaged. Correct as necessary.

7. Tighten the clamp securely.

8. Shift into 5th gear, and check the shift rod for rotational play.

A definite (slight) amount of play must be evident."
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[Arne2]

One thing to consider on the fore-aft adjustment is to ensure that the movement into 5th is sufficient to allow the cam for the reverse lock-out to trip. On a normal 915 shifter, there is normally no big problem with this, but if you have the factory short shift kit, the correct fore-aft adjustment window is very small. This may be true with aftermarket short shifters as well.

[redstack]

Well, progress report. Shifting is in fact 200% better. Firm slide into each gear. Able to shift into first at either a slow roll or fully stopped. Need a bit more adjustment I think. Going into 5th you have to push against the spring that works the reverse lockout. Is this normal? Also on the 5-4 shift still had a bit of a nick one time. Any thoughts on whether to make the adjustment one spline counter clockwise or CW? I guess I should just twist it one way then the next.