What tools are needed to remove heat exchangers.
 

I'm thinking of replacing all my exhaust gaskets as I have developed a backfire during deceleration and my exhaust seems a little louder that it should.

I got under the car to inspect and possibly tighten any loose nuts and I could not get any of my tools to fit into the confined space. In addition, none of my sockets would line up to the exhaust nuts when going thru the holes in the heat exchangers.

Any tips from the Pelican experts? I would really appreciate it.

I have a '74 with SSI's and a stainless Dansk muffler (normal, not sport).

Thanks!

There is a special bent wrench for the hex bolts. But I've heard others have done without it. The Allen bolts are easy with a u joint socket adapter.

I use 1/4" drive thin wall snap on sockets to get through the SSI holes with extensions and an adapter to 3/8 drive. I use short and long wrenches and or combinations of swivel sockets on the others. I have the copper nuts on all of my studs. If you have the factory nuts that are hex drive you need long hex drivers.
HTH

Heat, patience, heat, kroil, and heat.
Did I mention heat? While not everyone is as equipped as James Brown :D a portable torch with mapp gas would be the minimum requirement.
Be prepared to replace some of the exhaust studs as well as the nuts you will be removing. I hope you don't break a stud because they are a pain to remove.
Good luck with your project!;)

PB Blaster - spray and let sit overnight.

MAPP and patience! Get the nut glowing.

Wait, he is trying to "tighten" any loose nuts, so no need to heat anything up.

I make my own extra long hex socket to go through the exchanger hole. For the hex nuts, I use a combination of Sears standard 13mm wrench, stubby 13mm wrench, offset 13mm wrench, deep offset 13mm wrench, and an obstructed 13mm wrench (that Napa has for distributor nut access).

In fact, I think I have all 13mm wrench types known to man-kind.

While you read his post correctly I can only wonder how many of us actually found loose bolts/ nuts on the exhaust.
I wish it would have been my case when I dropped my engine...:eek:
Best of luck to the OP.

I've had 12mm on some of mine.

I've shortened some wrenches, I have the SSI provided bent tool, and the long allen wrench for the factory barrel nuts. I've had great success with 3/8 and 1/4" universal sockets in 12mm and 13mm sizes

and lots of heat

Flex head gear wrench is my tool of choice for exhaust nuts.

My other 13mm wrench is a "flame wrench" a la MAPP gas.

I laughed at that one too. My thought was "is there a loose heat exchanger loose nut?"

I thought Mapp gas used a yellow tank. I know acetylene uses a grey tank. What is in the black tank? acetylene might get a bit too hot.

Oxygen is green, acetylene is black, grey/silver is usually for inert gasses like the co2 argon mix for mig welding.
Really depends on the supplier though.

Thanks! My CO2/ Argon tank is blue. We're backwards around here I guess.

My argon co2 tank is silver and blue now that I think about it. Nitrogen and SF6 gasses are both silver.(all common where I work)
I depend/prefer to read the label! :)

This is a tool I have had for years for the allen nuts. I used an offset box wrench for the hex nuts. I soaked the nuts a couple times and let them sit for a few days. Then I used a small propane torch and kept applying heat until they came loose. Didn't break any studs so I was a very happy camper.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps3fe88175.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa928b0c6.jpg

Ok, just to clarify...I want to completely remove the heat exchangers and then replace all exhaust gaskets.

Are some of the nuts special "allen" nuts? I better take a closer look, and in the daytime. So far, I have only seen copper hex nuts - and they are 12mm.

I think if you have copper nuts, then that changes a lot of things.