How much oil will and SC take after draining it.

[TargaEuro]

I recently changed the oil in the SC, drained the tank then the sump, put on a new filter and proceeded to fill her. I started with 8 quarts of 20w50 and got no reading on the guage or the stick so I let it run for awhile to warm up. I put 10 quarts in and got a little reading on the gauge and a dab on the stick, so I let it run longer. Finally warmed up as much as its going to get I add one more quart. I still dont have much of a reading on the gauge but the stick reads min so I go for a short ride. Gauge still reads extremely low, seems to run fine so I get back to the shop add a half a quart and finally the guage reads about halfway and the stick aswell. Is 11.5 quarts about right for a typical oil and filter change. I also noticed that on acceleration the reading drops in the red and on idle the reading stays about midway , is that normal. I had a shop doing all the maintainence and after their oil change the gauge would always be pegged all the time while the engine was running at idle or acc. Im confused. Whats everyones thoughts on the matter....TargaEuro

[This message has been edited by TargaEuro (edited 09-06-2001).]

[82SC]

better have warmed it up to the first dash or so on the temp guage...or else when you run the car, it will overfill and you will have a HUGE mess...

Usually my car takes about 10 qt...and maybe one more after a couple runs

[cabman]

on my euro 83sc, it takes exactly 10.34 Quarts for refill volume.

if you drain the oil while warm, then fill it up with 10.34 quarts of new oil, then after you reach operating temp, the oil gauge should be about halfway.

during acceleration, it's normal for this needle to go down a little

(dont forget to drain the oil tank too and replace the filter!)

[wckrause]

The oil level gauge will only be accurate when the car is warmed up, and you're idling on a level surface.

[GT911]

I pull the two plugs and also disconnect the "S" hose that leads to the oil cooler. Then put 10 qts. back in start it up and end up adding 1 more. I buy the oil in a 12 pack so I put the last one in the trunk.

I think the issue of the gauge is this:
The oil level is measured in the tank, during acceleration the oil pump will push oil into the engine faster then it can be scavenged out, causing the needle to drop. As rpms are reduced the tank can fill back up and thus be registered on the gauge. I use the gauge as an indicator for when I need to check the dipstick.

I have an ’81 SC and everything you describe applies to mine also, so I’m sure yours is like it should be, if it’s not we both have a problem.

[rstoll]

10.5 quarts

------------------
Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944

[john walker's workshop]

depends on how long you let it drip. i swear you could put almost 12 qts in if you let it drip overnight. nobody does that of course, so if you let it drain for 2 minutes at each plug, about 10qt. 5min, 10.5 qt. etc, etc.

[autobonrun]

After warming my engine, I start draining both the reservoir and the sump. By the time I finish removing and replacing the filter, I replace the plugs. My car takes 11 quarts without fail.

79 SC

[TargaEuro]

I didnt think I would get this much response, thanks everyone. So 11.5 quarts is almost average. After the overfill experience I had with the shop doing the maintainence, I decided that I could do just as good a job as they were doing, but cheaper. After they rectified the overfill problem, I found that it was still overfilled but not enough to make a mess again. Overfilled tank = constantly pegged dash oil gauge. Properly filled tank = an actual reading on the gauge while driving under different loads. I get it now. Strange how Porsches differ from your typical auto. Thanks again everyone....TargaEuro

[Jdub]

You are not going to kill the car if you put in *only* 10quarts. Whatever you do, do NOT overfill your car or you will be pulling the plenum etc. on your CIS to clean out the overfill on the sensor plate, throttle body, etc.

I would hold at 11quarts max. Go for a very, very thorough ride wherein you can feel your tube oil cooler and lines and KNOW that the oil is hot. Then you put the car on a level surface, let it idle for a minute or two and check the oil at the dipstick.

Don't ignore the gauge, but don't trust it either. Go for the dipstick reading as your only true guide, and learn to read the gauge when you know the dipstick level. In other words, you check to see that oil is at midpoint on the dipstick, and then look through the rear window at your gauge: that is your in-cockpit guide baseline.

Jw

[john walker's workshop]

rule of thumb is when it's at normal operating temp, at idle on a level surface,the oil level should be half way between the high and low marks on the dipstick. if the gauge reads half way at this time then it can be considered accurate. there's no need to completely fill to the top. in fact oil use seems to drop doing it this way. less tendency to slosh a few drops into the breather tube that goes to the intake.

[Joe Bob]

Speaking of sloshing into the oil tube.....

A favorite drive of mine, is to Cold Springs Tavern on the San Marcos Pass above Santa Barbara....lately, after a spirited drive up the pass....and when turning around in the highway on a steep grade I get a nasty cloud of oil smoke coming out the exhaust. Front end is higher than the rear on the turn around on my CIS injected SC.

I run the oil level is at or slighlty above the lower mark on the dip stick....is this just an indicator of oil being sucked into the throttle body or another serious problem?

The smoke disapears after about 3 miles of flat driving....

[Jdub]

Angle of park and how much you put in matters. JohnW noted that my car smoked after he started it several times post-915 rebuild. We both agreed, though, that these cars like to find their own oil level. And sure enough, after a few clouds in the AM startup, the car doesn't puff a bit of smoke now: seems it has found its level. So now I look at the dipstick and that is my car's desireable level.

Jw

[john walker's workshop]

hard turns often cause momentary heavy smoking. it is the oil going into the intake via the breather hose. there is supposed to be a brillo filled brass sleeve in the hose or filler neck to limit the passing of liquid. many are missing. high oil level aggrevates the condition.