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Less brakes, more gas!
 
euro911sc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Stuart, FL
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Rear Wheel Bearing Change Fail

So I was so excited that the new bearing slipped right into the trailing arm I stuck the stub axel/hub in there too...

uh...

...without putting on the bearing retainer plate or e-brake assy.

so the question is this: Can I bang out the stub/hub with out ruining the bearing? Also, if the inner part of the race stays on the hub is that an issue? When the whole thing is torqued down it should return to the correct place, no?

Or did I just waste a bearing and need to buy a new one?

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Michael
'82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:14 PM
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I am sorry to hear about that.

I am not sure how you would be able to pull the bearing from the trailing arm or the stub axle out of the bearing with out major damage to the race. Thinking of how I pulled the old bearing (with a pully puller), it came out in pieces and was a major mess.

I'd buy a new bearing and put it in the freezer and don't feel too bad, I trashed one of the bearings installing (using my hickory mallet).
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:00 PM
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The worse thing that can happen is that you will destroy the bearing and have to buy a new one. More than likely the inner race will stick to the stub axle and you will have to pull or press it off. You might get lucky and the race will stay in the bearing, but probably not.

Just go ahead and whack the stub axle head with a heavy hammer and it will pop right out. I like to thread the axle nut on first to give me a bigger hitting area and possibly less damage to the threads.

What are you using for bearing removal? I highly recommend the Arnn Worx tool. It worked great for me.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:14 PM
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The answers are "no", "no", and "no".

The bearing will most likely be destroyed. You can remove the inner race with a split bearing puller. It's easy. And you must support the bearing inner race as you press the stub axle on. What is going on here is all about having the right sized washers/ pipe/ tool to support the work piece while you are applying torque.

Once you get the trick to it, it's really about a 20 minute job, I promise. I am saying this because I f'ed mine up, took time to study the procedure, and then re-did the whole thing from start to finish in about 20 minutes
Old 02-07-2014, 01:32 PM
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I made a similar mistake some time back. Had the hub in hand with the inner race
stuck on the hub shaft. I checked and saw no damage to the ball bearings in the bearing. I lubed around the bearing seal (which was still in perfect condition)and the ball bearings with copius amounts of grease. I then placed the hub in position and inserted the axle shaft thru it. I then torqued the axle nut and the inner race just popped in place. Given that the grease seal was still perfect and lubed, I thought I would give it a try! Now have several thousand miles since doing this and everything is AOK. No noisy bearing, nothing. Maybe I just lucked out. It certainly is not a desirable thing to do, but it worked for me and saved the drama and cost of a new bearing install.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:04 PM
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Less brakes, more gas!
 
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I'll just order a new one and if the old one looks undamaged I'll throw it in the track spares box. This is my track car and I really don't want any issues on track. I kinda knew this was the answer, but I wanted to poll the knowledge base after pulling a dunce move
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Michael
'82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah
'13 Cayenne GTS
Old 02-10-2014, 06:36 AM
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I did the same thing but was able to remove the axel without damage to the bearing. About 5k miles since replacement with no issues. Nothing like looking down and seeing that retainer plate!

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Old 02-10-2014, 02:33 PM
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