I absolutely flat out give up.
 

I cannot rid my car of the high RPM sputtering. Short of putting in a new engine I am at a loss. It pulls strong up to 4,000 RPM. After that it sputters and jerks. If I "feather" the gas I can get to redline. If anyone is in northern Indiana and wants to stop by and give it a shot come on over. If not, I will limp around under 4,000 until I can afford a C4.:(

Where are you at, I'm in Hammond with relatives in south bend/mishawaka. I have no experience with cis but I'll look back at your threads and see if anything jumps out at me

What have you done to troubleshoot? Fuel pump, fuel filter? Air filter clogged? Checked compression... tested fuel injectors?

The CIS system is a good one and its been around that there are very few things that it can do that someone has not been through before...

Do not give up, keep moving ahead and finally you will find the problem...

Joe

I am in Warsaw. I have replaced and fiddled with every doo-dad on the car and taken it to a certified P-car mechanic twice. Same prob.
Quick run-down: Within the last year. fuel pump, filter, injectors, air filter. Cleaned all screens within fuel system. Plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points, coil. I have had the CIS tuned as far as fuel mixture and pressure. It was tested and then tweaked after two weeks. I have also ran two tanks of Techron thru the tank.
The car runs and starts great everytime. I drive it almost every day. I am the bird flying into the plate glass window.:D

Shawn,

Replacing injectors is not the same as checking them. You might check the spray pattern on them as there could be a bad line or restriction in your dist head.

The problem sure sounds like its in the CIS somewhere. Have you switched any components from other cars?

Joe

is the mechanical advance frozen? did the "professional" guy make any headway? a volume comparison between all the injectors often shows something. i made this rig years ago, and still use it a lot on problem jobs. pull all the injectors out and hang them in the vials, hoses still attached, then turn on the key and raise the sensor plate arm by hand and compare volumes at different sensor plate heights. you can see the spray pattern too. just one more thing to eliminate on the way to the cure.

Ahh Thrown,

Check your CDI box switch with a known good one if you can. I think a bad box can do what you are experiencing. I had a paermatune that gave similar problems. eventually it sounded like it was running on three cylinders and wouldn't rev at all. I changed the box and presto (well i cleaned the fouled plugs also) it ran correctly.

JW Thats a sweet little set up, I bet the factory would sell you the same thing for a whole lot of money!:D

Try swapping out the CD unit. I had a similar issue when my Bosch unit went out.

Good luck Hammer!

-Brad
80SC

Anyone close have a swappable CD box?

As JW hinted...check the distributor advance. I had problems (seemingly) with my CIS, but it turned out to be a bad advance. For months, I chased CIS problems as all the symptoms seemed to indicate CIS Problem. Everyone I talked to pointed to CIS, but on fellow showed up (joeycatt..thank you!) and poof! Distributor problem.

I have an extra CD box out of a 81 car.

Am in Phoenix and flying to Buffalo today... let me know quick... or could send it out Friday. No idea where you live (pls update your profile!) but will be in Orlando next week...

Joe

480 699 2339

How do you get to the distributer advance? I assume it is under the points?

I'm not sure about the 2.7 dist (probably not too different), but on my SC motor I was not able to take the dist apart so for a temporary fix, I cleaned the thing out with carb cleaner spray and then dropped oil into it for lube. It seemed to fix the problem temporarily, until I rebuild it for good. Run a search on distributor...there are a few good threads here.

Joe,
I e-mailed you my address.

a timing lite will give an indication of dizzy advance...........Ron

Yep..timing light. Beware, the conditions on your vacuum (retard on the 2.7 I believe, correct Ron?) may be undetectable without load as I discovered with mine. While setting timing in the garage, everything seemed fine, but the test drive yielded poor results. If you do not have correct mech advance, the timing light will likely prove this w/o load, unless of course your vacuum retard is "retarded":D . I'd have to check the 2.7 timing procedure to validate my warning, but there are details we overlook when the target is within view.

Good luck.

Does your car have a catalytic converter or did those things use heat reactors or something. Could it be a clogged exhaust?

just pop the dist cap and try to turn the rotor by hand. if it turns one way and springs back lightly, it's ok. if it doesn't move, or moves with effort, it needs to be freed up.

Exhaust is new Bursch headers with Bursch 3M muffler. The rotor moves freely and springs back. Does this mean my advance is okay?