A few questions about shocks and torsion bars..

[Periokid]

I am about to do a brake job on my car (rotors, pads, rebuild calipers) and I am thinking that it might be a good time to do the shocks etc.

Questions:

1. Is it difficult to do shocks and torsion bars and sways bars on the 911 (1988)? I am most concerned about the torsion bars. I have no experience with this system.

2. For a car that is primarily a street car (used once or twice a week) what are your recommendations as to replacement components? I would not mind upgrading a little.

3. I notice a loud sound when I go over large bumps in the road. Sounds like banging of metal into metal. I can't seem to find any problems but the suspension is the original. Any suggestions on what to look for? I am sure it is from the rear of the car.

4. Do I need special tools for this job?

Thanks


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David

1988 911 Carrera Coupe
Leonoff Net

[This message has been edited by Periokid (edited 09-06-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Periokid (edited 09-06-2001).]

[Eric Coffey]

I would put the suspension mods/upgrades on hold and concentrate on that metal-to-metal "banging" noise! I have encountered such noises in two instances. The first was a failing chain tensioner, ad the last was a disintegrated clutch disc. Both expensive propositions.

-Eric

[89911]

Broken rear sway bar mount?

[Superman]

I'd tackle it, though I'd budget lots of time for it. I'd do it because I think it would be a substantial improvement. My car is a daily driver, but I'd sure try heavier torsion bars. Stock rears are 24mm for my car, and I'd go 26 easy, but I've been warned that 29 is pretty stiff. Balance between the front and rear is important. I'm told hollow is the way to go.

I'm guessing torsion bar replacement can be a challenge, and of course a four-wheel alignment is then necessary. Shocks would be much easier to replace with good ride improvement.

Find that clunking problem! My guess broken sway bar mount, too.

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'83 SC

[Periokid]

I am almost certain that the noise is suspension related. I will check the sway bar mounts. I do know that the sway bars are slightly corroded.

In choosing a suspension. What combo of shocks, torsion bars and sways should I put together on my street car?

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David

1988 911 Carrera Coupe
Leonoff Net

[cstreit]

Could also be failed Trans mounts...

[Peter Kelly]

The noise could be a loose cartridge in the front strut, or just plain worn out shock or strut cartridge.

I had a clunking noise in my right front strut till I replaced the OEM cartridges with bilstein. The cartridge was not loose, it was just worn out. I could stroke it back and forth on the bench after removal and feel the looseness when it reversed direction.

[Periokid]

Peter,

I have a feeling you are right. I was examining my car on the lift and I noticed a bit of oil on the side of one of the rear shocks. Not a lot but I suspect that the shocks are shot.

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David

1988 911 Carrera Coupe
Leonoff Net

[89911]

David, We have similar cars so I think I can give you some recommendations on what I've done and my next project on an 87 coupe. Presently, I have 22mm and 28mm torsion bars with Bilstein sport shocks, front and rear. The ride is firm, but I like it. My car is hardly a daily drive, I will be lucky to put 3000 miles on it this year. When I am driving it, performance is what I am after. My brother is in the process of buying an 87 that is stock. After driving it, I am amazed at the difference in handling. The stock setup seems downright dangerous. For his car, we are going 23 and 30mm Torsion bars because he is going to be mainly tracking this car. For you, 21 or 22 front and 27, 28 rear should suffice. The shocks will make some difference and you may want to go with Bilstein HD's rather then sports. Leave the sway bars alone for now. With this setup, your car will still be ok for daily driving.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

[Periokid]

89911,

Thanks for getting some info to me. i was worrying that no one could answer my question.

Did you do the suspension work yourself? If not, who did the work and what should this job run?

If you ever get sick of your fikse wheels and you want to sell to a fellow dentist....

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David

1988 911 Carrera Coupe
Leonoff Net

[89911]

I did all the work myself except for the mathmatics to get the spring plate angels right the first time. My freind/mechanic has a formula to figure cars weight, torsion bar size and ride height to set to spring plate to before the load is placed. I believe mine was 25 degrees on a level car. I installed adjustable plates then to fine tune. The fronts are a breeze. The rears involve dissassembling the spring plate from the trailing arm and the removal of the torsion bar cover and the outer spring plate cover. Once out, you have turn the bar and the spring plate in combinations to get that magic setting. (More complicated that that, but I can go into detail later). I also replaced the rear bushings with polyurethane which took some time. Wouldn't recommend it if your just using your car for track.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

[Periokid]

Originally posted by 89911:
I also replaced the rear bushings with polyurethane which took some time. Wouldn't recommend it if your just using your car for track.

Would or wouldn't recommend for track car. Do you mean street car.

Can I change the shocks now and then the torsion bars at a later date? I'll likely go with the Bilstein HD as per you recommendation.

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David

1988 911 Carrera Coupe
Leonoff Net

[89911]

Sorry, Stick with Neatrix or OE bushings for street, Polyurethane for track, (Noisy, although I haven't seen that yet.) I changed my shocks 2 years ago and the torsion bars last year. The shock change is usually the first place to start and quite easy, followed by torsion bars and then sway bars.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.