Peter, when I shook all the stuff off of the shaft, the race and the bearing remained. I didn't notice the race (thought it was part of the bearing) until I started pressing the bearing off. The bearing fell apart as I pressed it out. (I was going to replace it anyway.) I was actually looking at the tutorial at the time, but the pics were too small for my feeble eyes to see exactly what the bearing looks like.

So I guess I need to press the race off now...

There is a special tool used to remove that roller bearing, and the ball bearing behind it, without damaging them in process...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397633768.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397633831.jpg

Maybe a stupid question, but the "nick" on the end of every tooth of almost all gears. Are they there by purpose and if so to what?

If you don't have a P 255a, you can use a bearing splitter...

Bearing Splitter from Sears.com

...just make sure that you buy a good one!

I use a Kukko (made in Germany)...

Thanks for anticipating my next question!

OK, I'm getting ready to order parts. But first two questions about the rear pinion race. It can be removed with finger pressure. It spins freely, but there is no side-to-side movement. I am replacing the bearing and the race.

a) Can I insert the race with red loctite and call it good, or do I need to measure to determine if a solution resulting in a tighter fit is required?

b) When I do get around to installing the new race, will things line up depth-wise if I push the new race all the way in against the stops, or will I need to take measurements and make adjustments?


Here is the parts list. Did I miss anything?

2nd gear set (still looking for a good used set)
3rd gear set (thanks, 0396)

1st-4th synchros
1st-3rd teeth

1st-4th brake bands (I'll evaluate after taking apart the gears and reuse what I can)

1/2 hub
3/4 hub

1/2 operating sleeve
3/4 operating sleeve
(these may be ok to reuse, but there looks like a significant groove in each)

pinion shaft roller bearing

pinion shaft lock nut
main shaft lock nut

gasket set

The two steel shims look good. Should I replace them anyway?

The loose pinion race must be repaired by a knowledgeable machine shop. I've used Engine Machine Service in Inglewood, CA for years, actually decades. Call Bill and Dick at 310-641-7019, tell them you got their name from me. When you ship the diff housing, include the race for the new bearing.

Don't even bother refreshing the transmission without the pinion bearing repair it has to be done for a correct and long lasting repair. I had a local quality machine shop do the work. They used a different approach but it's a permanent repair.

Thanks for the reference. I'll give them a call.

If the shims are in nice shape w/no raggedness around the bearing cutouts and no wrinkling from mishandling them, they should be fine to reuse. Just keep in mind that with new bearings, the shim stack calculation will very likely change and therefore you'll need to adjust accordingly with the shimming.

Please excuse the noob question, but what is a ballpark figure for the cost of these bits? What would the cost of a replacement 915 be (assuming used but in working order)? I'm just wondering at what point are the parts more expensive than a replacement transaxle? Kind of like the options if I blow up my Boxster engine. $12k to have it rebuilt, or $5k for a used, working engine.

the used engine or trans may be no better, even worse than what you already have, unless you can drive it first and evaluate it. they're all cores to me unless it can be proved otherwise.

I just purchased the same parts 1,300.00 and the case repair 500.00.

+1

This stuff, minus the gear sets, totaled in a Pelican project list, is 2200, not including tax. Add the gear sets and the machine work to that. Not a day goes by I don't wish I had at least a decent transmission to plug in while I fix this one. At least I could drive!

As it is, I need to get the lead out and move things along with this one. My folks are coming out from Pennsylvania for a rare visit this June. My dad, who is 85 and being treated for macular degeneration, has expressed the desire to drive the 911 across the Golden Gate Bridge. Probably now or never, so I'm hoping things fall into place.

This look's like a good candidate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/807079-fs-915-sc-transaxle-low-mileage-rebuild.html?highlight=transmission

++1

Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks for the info, guys. I have done a few MG restorations and have thought about getting an early-ish 911 to restore. It kind of sounds like if you have the original trans, it is in your best interest to rebuild vs. replace, even if the rebuild parts and labor costs more than a freshly rebuilt non-original trans, just to keep it "original". My Boxster, on the other hand, there is little to no value in "all original".

Benjamin

The biggest problem with an "exchange," or "rebuilt," or "repaired" 915 is that there are many more ways to do one wrong than right. Cost cutting and lack of knowledge seem to be running about equal as to why, and one can be as bad as the other. If you have an original one in your car, per the car's CoA, it's probably best to either, (1) hire an expert rebuilder to fix it, or (2) DIY it. There are exceptions.

The first is if your trans has grenaded, which can push repair cost past $7-8K. Second is if you have a relationship with a high quality rebuilder who might have a finished one on his shelf, and can make a swap financially feasible. Cores have become more expensive, are harder to come by, and will have a tendency to have unknown (i.e.; high) mileage. That means that a core could very well have fewer usable parts, and is a gamble that it was someone's grenade.

It's tough out there, folks, and it ain't gettin' cheaper!

Thanks Peter. I have actually made it through about half of your wiki article. Very informative and nothing that scares me yet. Anyway, I'm straying from the original post and thread-jacking.