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I have generally had good luck with VHT paints. I was planning on using VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint for the cylinder air deflector tins.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP671-6-PK-Temperature-Chassis/dp/B00B3V2ZBC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510292958&sr=1-2&keywords=VHT+roll+bar+paint

I have a couple of cans left over from painting a roll bar satin black. The color is nice and the finish is quite tough for a rattlecan.

For the rest of the engine tin I am powdercoating as well since I expect the tin to get banged around every time I drop the engine or drop tools on it.
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:53 PM
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At the time when I had my engine apart, I had my air baffles powder coated and used automotive enamel for the engine tin. Mostly this was related to the condition I found them in upon removal.

I was much happier with the finished product of the parts that were powder coated but I guess its like everything else in life, to each their own.

I’m always surprised by folks that have such a strong opinon about something that to my eyes is completely subjective, but there you go...
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:51 AM
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Powder coat is the only way to go.
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:16 AM
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if one of you doesn't want to go all in $$$ powdercoating and doesn't have a weeks time: there are great 2K paint rattle cans.
paint hardens slow but at the end its ultra hard and absoluteley gas and oil and heat resistant.

I guess in the US the brand EASTWOOD is the one to choose

usem this of cours need thorough prepping and cleaning the part.
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:23 AM
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Once you try VHT brake caliper paint, you will be a convert. As durable as powder coat, with the convenience of rattle can. It's not at all the same as any other rattle can paint, but you have to bake it to properly cure.
David
Old 11-10-2017, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
if one of you doesn't want to go all in $$$ powdercoating and doesn't have a weeks time: there are great 2K paint rattle cans.
paint hardens slow but at the end its ultra hard and absoluteley gas and oil and heat resistant.

I guess in the US the brand EASTWOOD is the one to choose

usem this of cours need thorough prepping and cleaning the part.
Don't use Paint in a spray can!!! Your use of the term 2k makes me wonder if you know anything about painting. 2k is a measurement for build primer!!
Getting tins to bare metal is a lot of work and then your gonna tell the poor guy to use spray paint. Not Cool
Old 11-10-2017, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpmulvan View Post
Don't use Paint in a spray can!!! Your use of the term 2k makes me wonder if you know anything about painting. 2k is a measurement for build primer!!
Getting tins to bare metal is a lot of work and then your gonna tell the poor guy to use spray paint. Not Cool
did you read I stated the need of prepping?
of course if you have bare-metal parts these will require a primer as base.

2k (dual componant) paint is a not uncommon use. works for me well since 15 years for attaching parts. no issues.

e.g.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-ceramic-chassis-black.html

never let me down, great results, no issues in years!
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Last edited by Flojo; 11-10-2017 at 05:04 AM..
Old 11-10-2017, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
did you read I stated the need of prepping?
of course if you have bare-metal parts these will require a primer as base.

2k (dual componant) paint is a not uncommon use. works for me well since 15 years for attaching parts. no issues.

e.g.
Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray™ Ceramic Chassis Black

never let me down, great results, no issues in years!
You prep metal with epoxy primer or etching primer 1k or 2k is a build primer for removing imperfections and in some instances used as a sealer before basecoat. VHT paint is crap I wouldn't put it on a pedal car. Oh and 2 k doesn't stand for dual component, it's the thickness of the build primer. I wish 962 would chime in and set the record straight. 1. Take tins down to bare metal
2. Shoot epoxy or etch primer
3. Shoot a basecoat/ top with cerakote or other fuel resistant topcoat
If your really anal shoot some build primer sand then spray base
4. You don't need any high temp paint and I'm sure there's some single stage that would work well also. Check TDS sheets for paints specs.
Old 11-10-2017, 12:53 PM
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holy crap guys enough of all the spray can work , this is what 85 bucks got me ... ( find yourself a Mennonite place ) and I drank beer on my deck while it was being done for a couple of days .. sand blasted and coated. I chose a matt black as the gloss was just too much for me.




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Old 11-10-2017, 01:06 PM
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+1 for drinking beer while someone else makes the parts look beautiful.
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Old 11-10-2017, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan9eleven View Post
+1 for drinking beer while someone else makes the parts look beautiful.
indeed, that's a plus
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Old 11-10-2017, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpmulvan View Post
You prep metal with epoxy primer or etching primer 1k or 2k is a build primer for removing imperfections and in some instances used as a sealer before basecoat. VHT paint is crap I wouldn't put it on a pedal car. Oh and 2 k doesn't stand for dual component, it's the thickness of the build primer. I wish 962 would chime in and set the record straight. 1. Take tins down to bare metal
2. Shoot epoxy or etch primer
3. Shoot a basecoat/ top with cerakote or other fuel resistant topcoat
If your really anal shoot some build primer sand then spray base
4. You don't need any high temp paint and I'm sure there's some single stage that would work well also. Check TDS sheets for paints specs.
2k generally refers to two component, with the second component being a catalyst or hardner of some sort.

I personally prefer epoxy primer over an etch primer on bare metal as it protects the metal from future rust.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:19 PM
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You should be able to get all the engine parts powder coated for about $75 and the best part is, sometime else does all the messy work. You drop of ugly parts and pick up pretty ones.
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:21 PM
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I spent my money with Eastwood and got the 2K. I made a paint out of a wardrobe box and a heat lamp. Used the bead blaster at my dealership to get rid of the paint and small mounts of surface rust on the parts that I did and then went to town on refinishing. I had a great experience, learned an s-load about metal prep and refinishing. The parts that I redid came out great, the finish has stayed and the parts still look awesome. I would do it again that way in a heartbeat.
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:50 AM
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Where are you guys getting all your tin powdercoated for <$100? I got a quote for $185 for doing only the air deflector tins and spring clips which I thought was ridiculous. Then again I am in CA. I am considering shipping all my tins out to an out of state shop if the price is reasonable. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jmotorsports View Post
Where are you guys getting all your tin powdercoated for <$100? I got a quote for $185 for doing only the air deflector tins and spring clips which I thought was ridiculous. Then again I am in CA. I am considering shipping all my tins out to an out of state shop if the price is reasonable. Thanks in advance.
There are dozens of powder coating services in So. Cal. Prices and service varies, but prices should be competitive because of the number of sources. Call around. Perhaps photograph the existing parts and email for a more accurate estimate to save some footsteps. Prepping your pieces might be a variable depending on current condition.

FWIW, I had my engine surround sheet metal done by Sun Dial Powder Coating in Sun Valley a few years ago. Depending on your time line, a friendly powder coater might agree to include your pieces in another order with the same color at a discounted rate. Ask. In addition, try a search on this forum for guys who offer that service.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood
Old 11-15-2017, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jmotorsports View Post
Where are you guys getting all your tin powdercoated for <$100? I got a quote for $185 for doing only the air deflector tins and spring clips which I thought was ridiculous. Then again I am in CA. I am considering shipping all my tins out to an out of state shop if the price is reasonable. Thanks in advance.
I have the same question.
Anyone know of a place up here in NorCal preferably in the south bay for powdercoating all that at $85 while I drink beer

The factory coating appears to be some sort of black paint. Anyone knows what it is ?
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:43 AM
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I shot all of my parts with DuPont Imron 15 or so years ago. It's a polyurethane enamel. Not sure if it's even legal anymore.... deadly poisonous - gotta be shot in a booth with active filters, safety gear, etc... but wears like iron. It was developed for airplanes and fleet equipment.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:19 AM
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I used to take all mine and our shop stuff to a place that powder coated awning frames and outdoor furniture. They were in an industrial park and the shop wasn't anything fancy. But I just wanted it all blasted and done in satin black so it was cheap and easy. They used to charge me $75 for whatever I could fit in a 20 gallon bin.

The place got flakey so we bought a powder coat gun and oven for the shop. I miss having someone do all the blasting but the actual powder coating is easy.
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:43 PM
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I too went with VHT caliper paint in satin black. Baked them in the BBQ , for sure, don't do it inside unless you want to endure some pretty nasty fumes. I found the result to be as tough as nails and solvent resistant. My 2 cents.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:01 PM
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