Diff seals
 

While working on my front suspension and having the front of the car in the air on jackstands I lost alot of swepco from around the base of my rear axles. I don't see the specific seals on the PP catalog but I am sure they sell them (?). What specifically do I need to replace? Looking at the exploded view of the diff, I can kinda visualize the seals but I am not quite sure what it is that I need. I posted a query a while back and was told that it was an easy fix after removing the axles but I need to know what seal! Thanks a ton, Brian

Here you go..........

901/915 Transmission Output Shaft Side Seals K-113-183-40 $8.30

Was your gear box over filled ? Having it raised in the front shouldn't make any difference.

Well....I don't know if it was overfilled...it was "changed" before I bought the car in Feb. I would occasionally have a few drips on the garage floor even sitting flat. This time, having the front end in the air really cause a spill. I will estimate maybe 300-400ml(probably looks like more than it is, I'm used to estimating puke ,blood or urine *grin*) It is definitely coming from those output seals and making a yucky (blue) mess. I have an auto-X this Sunday...if I dont get the seals here and in....ya think I can make it through? Brian

Before I had my gear box rebuilt. Mine would weep an oil spot about the size of a dime every other time I drove the car.

If it is not leaking more than it was before you had the front end up. I would wait till after the A-X and you have some time.

The gear box oil level is right below the oil seals when it is correct. So I don't know what lifting the front would do. Maybe a week spot in the seal wiper ?

When you order the seals. I'd order the correct triple square driver for your CV bolts. Plus all new washers. A pair of CV gaskets. I also like to have about 1/2 the number of CV bolts on hand in case they strip out.

If you haven't been in there before. You don't know how the PO left them.

It has been my experience that changing final drive flange seals is a PITA. A large nut in the center of the output shaft holds the flange on. That same shaft is drilled and threaded on the inside, so this procedure can be done. There is a special tool that gets on those inside threads and pushes the drive flange on. There is a spring pushing the drive flange out, fighting against you when you try to put it on. In some cases this spring is not wimpy. Sometimes they are flat-wound in the sort of 'vertical' direction, to make then extra stiff.

Again, my experience with these has all been non-Porsche, but mostly German (VW water-cooled). So, your experience may vary. I've done it without the special tool, using a very large screwdriver for leverage, but I did not have fun. If mine had this problem, I'd check oil level occasionally, and deal with it at the next tranny rebuild.

Cary, is the triple square tool the same one that would take CV bolts from a VW? Seeing as I have one of those...it would be nice if it was the same...although...as I have said in earlier posts...I will never pass up buying a new tool:D Brian

If you have 4 bolts it takes the 8mm like the VW. If its 6 bolts, it takes the 6mm.

On my 915 gear box the output shaft is held on with a long bolt. You put 2 opposing CV bolts back in. Then you use the big ass screwdriver in your tool box. To hold the flange in place. Then back out the bolt. The out put shafts slides right out.

Both my 914 drive trains are on dollies in the garage. If you need a picture. Let me know.