Replacing front discs
 

I'm replacing the front discs and pads. Can I remove the front calipers without removing the steel brakeline that connects it. I'd really rather avoid bleeding the brakes.

Also how do i remove the clips that hold the brake pad retaining pins?

Thanks

Just pry, carefully, those clips off. I think they are fork-shaped and can be slid off. I believe there is a way to hang the calipers up without detaching the line, but I don't remember. I think you remove the clips and slide the line through the bracket. If the procedure places any stress on those hard lines, you might consider detaching them rather than risking a bend. The brakes should probably be bled at this point anyway. Do this with the pistons pressed all the way back into the calipers.

Yes, it is relatively simple. Carefully tunr the calliper towards the front strut housing (shox). Careful not to bend these lines.
I am not sure which clips you are alluding to: a) the pins that go through the callipers and the brake pads - can be easily punch out with a long nail; b)the antisqueal clip (in the shape of a cross, which also holds the brake sensor wire) will come off easily once one of the aforementioned pins have been removed.
In any case it is recommended that when you change your pads you should change this hardware at the same time. Also, when you change your rotors, it would be appropriate to change your pads (better bedding).

Thanks Guys ....Back to the garage.

O.K. Back in from the garage. Pads are off, but I can't see a way to get those calipers off without disconnecting the hard line. I would need that hard line to move about an inch and a half which it ain't gonna do.

I've refered to the 101 project book, but it's quite vague and refers to the rear wheels. I was really hoping not to have to bleed the brakes. Is there something I'm missing here or is bleeding the brakes (which I really do not want to do) gonna have to happen ??

Help !

Jeff C

Replacing the front discs will require removal of the front hubs and their grease filled bearings.

Once you have the calipers free, remove the dust cap using the channel lock rocking technique, use a hex wrench to unlock the nut, remove the nut and the hub will pull off. Catch the bearing in something clean or you will need to repack the hub.

Unless your attachment between the hardline and flexible brakeline can be removed from the strut (mine didn't) you are going to have to disconnect it or risk "braking" the hardline. Get your flare nut wrench and do it!

Bleeding the brakes after you are done with the rotors and pads is a mightily worthwhile "complementary" enhancement!

Don't be scared about bleeding the brakes. And it is an essential procedure after working on the brake system anyway.

I know how you feel, I also didn't want to mess with brake fluid. But here's my story about brake bleeding success.

The real trick was the motive pressure bleeder. Absolutely best $50 tool I've purchased.

I imagine the time you save by not bleeding the brakes will be lost trying to figure out how to suspend the calipers, and one wrong move and you crimp a hard brake line will cost a lot more in time and aggravation than learning how to bleed the brakes.

Let me know if you have any questions about brake bleeding.

Good Luck!

And after new pads and rotors, your system deserves fresh brake fluid!

Regarding removing the dust caps, I've found the drift punch and hammer technique to work well also.

Another thing! That isn't mentioned in the published world. Wayne - Add this to the caliper rebuild project in the second edition. Bob Tindels tech article doesn't mention this either.

Once you have your new discs/pads set up and your caliper pistons are backed into the caliper you will need to advance the pistons to make a tight fit or your pedal will travel WAY farther than you want.

This was covered in SOME of the replies to this thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/7363-spongy-brake-pedal-even-after.html

This is the situation when the calipers have been rebuilt or you have backed your pistons into the calipers doing other brake tasks such as changing pads.

I put my old (thinner) pads into the caliper and pressed the pistons out to meet those using the brake pedal. Remove the thin pads and you should ideally have to use hammer levels of force to tap the new pads in between the pistons and the rotors. After wasting my time with quarts of bleeding (fluid that is) I went from caliper to caliper doing this and the pedal travel decreased incrementally until it was great (10-20%).

I assumed that applying brake pedal pressure would express the pistons and tighten things up. I realized I was wrong when my pedal bottomed out and I wasn't stopping.

Accept no substitute - for a tight brake pad fit!

Hey Guys

Thanks for the injection of "Balls".

Alright ...It's time to learn to do this. It'll have to wait till Monday when I can get my Bentley manual from the office.