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 Strut Brace: Standard vs. Traingulated Looking at a Rennline front strut brace for my '85 Targa.  Already running the Targa body braces (the ones that install in the cabin seat belt points). Anyone have a strong opinion of using the standard single bar brace between the two strut towers versus the triangulated model? The price difference is not that much, but don't want to waster $50 either. Opinions? And as always, thanks Pelican and my fellow Pelicanites. | 
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 Triangulated will lock the brace down.  Without it, you are pushing one side into the other.  Its worth the $50 if  you have space in your trunk :) | 
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 I don't have a reference point for a single bar in a Targa, buy I can say that I am happy with the Rennline triangulated strut brace with the body braces in my Targa.  The only negative to the triangulated brace is that you loose some space. | 
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 and the ability to store your folded top in the frunk. that being said i went with the triangulated brace in my targa. | 
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 FYI:  I can store a my folded top in the front with the triangulated brace.   It would be great to store an "unfolded" top in the front. :) | 
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 ok, so you have the rennline brace as well. i would love to see a pic of your folded top in there with it. it won't fit in mine.  http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...e/IMG_0643.jpg | 
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 I will be at the garage later and will post a pic for you nineball. | 
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 Haven't driven my car for what seems like ages, but won't the top fit in there sideways near the latch? | 
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 i can't, or haven't found a way to, get my folded top into the frunk with my 3 point rennline brace. hopefully my eyes are about to be opened :) | 
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 Yes, I can fit mine in sideways.  Pic will be coming shortly. | 
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 Have you already converted to mono balls or do you still have the rubber bushings? The reason why I ask is, most of the movement in the strut comes from the rubber mounting components not body shell flex. | 
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 Here's a thread with some pictures: HERE | 
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 If your goal is to look like an RSR go for it. If your goal is to reduce movement of the strut, connecting the sheet metal on one side with the sheet metal on the other, is not the best bang for the buck First priority should be mono balls. That's all. | 
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 My only point is that the factory used rubber mounts, with a welded in strut tower brace, and in some cases the cross bracing, on their RSR race cars. If the factory did rubber with braces for their race car, there must be a reason. Perhaps they found that the chassis either went up/down at the strut top or that the outward deflection of the body had more of an effect than the rubber vs monoball. I totally agree that if the goal is to make the absolute stiffest chassis upfront, it would probably be with monoballs and cross bracing. I'm just also offering up some evidence of factory decisions on the race car. :) I have no way of knowing why they chose to have a brace and rubber strut mounts (instead of also mono balls). Just some thoughts.. :) Cheers, - Craig_D | 
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 So back date your brakes! | 
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 "...pre brake booster car like my -77"??? I thought ALL post-76's were power assisted. Was your brake booster removed when the big motor was installed? | 
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 They may spend a lot of money for a small improvement because it's all the regulations will allow...and they feel any gain is worth having. So it could be that the RSR raced under regs that required stock suspension mounting points. Not uncommon. In that case they would be forced to use the rubber bushings even if they thought they were a poor solution. In my experience, measuring camber before and after a strenuous track day. It would change significantly with rubber bushings and very little with mono balls. Single strut brace in both cases. Good luck! | 
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