Dropping engine 3.2 G50 88 Targa

[jm13004]

Well, I recently did a valve adjustment and noticed how much dirt, oil, and grit was in the engine bay. I was actually nervous working around the valves because everything was filthy and didn't want any dirt getting into the engine. This car spent it's entire life in Colorado and I think the PO may have lived on a dirt road. I don't think I could have done a proper cleaning with the engine in the car so I'm taking the dive and dropping the engine and trans. I also want to complete some maintenance and perform clutch inspection. My plan is:

Check fuel lines
Replace spark plugs
Re-check valve adjustment since it will be easy access
Replace sound/insulation padding
Check clutch ( works fine but it was last done at 80K and car now has 145K). I'm unsure if I will do the rubber or spring...any suggestions welcome. I'm hoping the update was done on this as well. I've never done a clutch so I'm a little nervous but I have the Bentley and this awesome forum.
Any questionable vacuum hoses
Oil pressure sensor
I'll ohm test distributor wires ...they are fairly new.
Any leaking seals

I started today. I'll do a little at a time. I'm not in a rush.

[jm13004]

Couple questions Pelicans:
Will the motor and trans on the G50 drop straight down once I slide the shift coupler forward? Or does the engine need to tilt/ slide back toward rear?

Also, I found the 2 connectors for the speedometer but there is also another connector...does that need to be seperated also? Here's a pic. Thanks .

[boyt911sc]

Search for Dan Heinrich's (aka Syncroid) post about his G-50/Engine drop with pictorials and explanation.

Tony

[jm13004]

Thanks Tony

[Jcslocum]

Those are the only 2 that need to be disconnected.

Get ready for a sweet ride on the " while I'm in there " train.... Good luck and it's not that hard. Just take your time. The clutch slave is a mofo to get too. It's easiest to when the engine has been dropped a few inches.

There is an electrical connector just to the right of the drivers side shock tower.

[john walker's workshop]

get to the clutch slave by leaning over the top of the engine after it's been lowered 10 inches or so. same on reassembly. easy.

[kuba_kuba]

Here's the link to Syncroid's thread. Engine drop step by step with a G50

[jm13004]

Thanks guys. That's funny...the Bentley Manual directs you to access SC via top of engine. I was saying to myself " there's no way". Now it makes more sense. I plan on lowering the car down low and easing the engine/ trans onto the wheeled dolly and then lifting the car slowly until I can slide eng/trans out. This seems to be the safest method from my research.

Joe

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by jm13004

Thanks guys. That's funny...the Bentley Manual directs you to access SC via top of engine. I was saying to myself " there's no way". Now it makes more sense. I plan on lowering the car down low and easing the engine/ trans onto the wheeled dolly and then lifting the car slowly until I can slide eng/trans out. This seems to be the safest method from my research.

Joe

That's how I did my drop (87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End) - better to have a small engine-drop, then jack the car up slowly off of the engine. Makes for a no-drama-drop, and very easy to check for any cables, wires, hoses, linkages, etc., that might be getting hung up in the process. Doing it this way made this a very manageable single-handed operation.
Good luck!

[COLB]

I just finished unhooking everything to drop my 88 3.2 for the first time.

I managed the slave cylinder from the bottom, but it was a half hour exercise in contortion once I figured out where it was -- which was a challenge.

I finally succeeded with a 1/4 drive mini ratchet with a 13mm short socket. You have to do it by feel with one hand, and you have to drop the CVs first to get them out of the way. A ratcheting 12 pt. box wrench would probably have worked better, but I don't have one.

Spray the CV bolts with some PB Blaster now and let them work before you get to them. I used a 8mm hex socket on a 3/8 in ratchet. I had to rotate the tire to position each bolt to take the socket, set the e-brake to hold them steady, then use a breaker bar to crack them. Release brake, turn wheel, set brake, etc.

Once you have done one side and switch to the other, remember they are the mirror image of the other CV, and you have to crank them in the opposite direction to loosen them. Always counter clockwise.

Ask me how I know…

For the passenger side, the only way I could get enough torque to loosen them was to hold the socket in the bolt with the ratchet handle at about 45 degrees with one hand, and use the floor jack to slowly press the ratchet upward -- making sure you don't go too far and crush the oil/AC lines. Awkward, but effective when you don't have a lift!

[jm13004]

More work today getting ready for the engine drop. I hit 2 slight problems that I need advise on:

I removed the right side CV joint bolts with an 8MM allen driver and a breaker bar. I hit the bolts ahead of time with some PB Blaster (thanks for the heads up Cobb). When I went to the left side of the car, I was stumped see 12 point bolts. I guess these are original to the car. I know our host carries this socket, but I would like to get it at a local hardware store ( Sears didn't have the socket) so I can finish the drop this weekend. Here's a pic:




Next, I have a different cruise control than the Bentley Manual shows, can anyone recommend how to get the cable disconnected from this device?

[COLB]

Joe,

it looks like someone has used flywheel bolts on your CV joints. Out host has a couple of tool options for removing flywheel bolts that might work.

I have the same cruise control, and posted how to remove it. I unbolted the whole gold mounting bracket -- you can see the mounting nuts at the base in your photo.

Once the mounting bracket is loose, you can pull off the ball & socket connection for the cable, and see the two tabs on the bak side of that black plastic grommet that holds the cable in the mount. I removed the plastic grommet, and just left the cable attached to the throttle when I dropped the engine.

[rusnak]

Yeah, those are "triple square" bolts. I think you can find them at any good FLAPS.

[jm13004]

Colb- My bad, I viewed your CC post on my I-Phone while in the garage and yours looked a little different. I'll undo the 3 nuts as instructed. BTW, well done on your drop....it's nice to have someone forging the path in front of you. I'm a slowpoke, so I doubt I'll catch up.
BTW, HF has the 6 ton jackstands on sale for $39.

Rusnak-I believe you're referring to auto parts store. I'm on it today.

[jm13004]

Well, after several days, I was able to get my engine dropped today. I don't keep the car at my house, so I have to plan well from a logistical standpoint. Typically, I'll spent 2-3 hours working on the car and then make a hit list for items or tools I need for the next round.

Back to the engine. Since my last post, I was unsure of where to obtain a spline bit for the CV joint on the L side of the car. I finally found a local auto parts store that had one in stock. After inserting the 12MM bit with a 1/2" socket, they came right off. I proceeded to remove all the items listed in the 101 and Bentley and then double checked everything. I did forget one of the the vacuum hoses that attaches to air box but it popped off with no harm. Here's the location behind air box:



I looked at several of the systems used to drop the engine. I used 2 furniture dollies from HF and screwed 3/4" plywood to the one supporting the engine. I also purchased this low profile 3 ton jack and it worked great:


Finally, I used 2-6 ton jacks from HF to raise the rear of the car. The engine cleared without having to remove the bumperhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/icons/icon7.gif.



Now the bad news. When I tried removing the engine mount bolts , I started on the right side. As I attempted to turn the bolt , it wouldn't budge. I went to the left side and removed that one without any problem. I went back to the right side, this time armed with a breaker bar. I really applied pressure....so much so that I was afraid the socket was going to strip the bolt or worse, slip off and smack me in the face. Finally, it gave in but never turned as easy as the other side. I didn't think anything of it since the bolt finally came out. Once I rolled the engine out from under the car, I dicovered this:



I cannot believe I applied enough force to break the end of the bracket. I guess I need to get a post up on the wanted forum. BTW, will any year bracket 69-89 work on my 88 Targa? After the engine/trans was out of the car, I did a quick evaluation of the back side of my engine. My fuel lines look to be in pretty good shape ......no cracks or hardness. If I don't have to replace these, I would prefer not to. Give me your thoughts. I don't see any oil leaks in the triangle either just lots of dirt....should I still replace all the typical gaskets and sensors?




My main goal was to clean the engine, evaluate clutch, and perform any needed maintenance. Hopefully, I'll be seperating the trans/engine next.

[Jcslocum]

You can have that end of the bar heated up, out back and then welded up at a local weld shop. The nut turning on the bottom was your culprit.

[rusnak]

I would definitely weld back up that engine bracket. Also, inspect the bolt threads and the threaded nut.

As far as replacing stuff, you really need to inspect things before deciding. On my 911, I replaced the oil pressure switch, the crankshaft sensors (because the insulation was gone on the wires), CHT sensor (because I upgraded it), TO bearing (because it had seized and was the reason I dropped the engine), rear brake rubber hoses, gas hoses, fuel PR, engine sound pad, clutch, flywheel, main oil seal, injectors and intake gaskets, etc etc. That was a huge amount of overkill. You don't need to do half of that stuff typically. I would at minimum replace the oil pressure switch, the crankshaft seal if you are confident that you can get the new one it OK, and clean and lube the TO shaft. Take a look at the TO fork for cracks. Replace the pilot bearing and flywheel bolts.

[jm13004]

Thanks guys,
For what it will cost me to have it welded (it's also bent at the end) and piece of mind, I'm just going to get a used one. As for my hit list, I'll inspect and look at everything in more detail over the weekend and come up with a list. Im interested in the condition of my clutch and if I had the update....we'll see.

[COLB]

If the insulation is trashed on your reference sensors, take a look at the BMW versions -- which are available for $58 each, compared to $143 for the Porsche part. They are interchangeable. You can search it on the forums.

Also, I have an extra breather CHT sensor if yours has not been updated. I will make you a deal on it before I put them on in the Marketplace, and throw in a breather gasket for free. PM me if you want them.

I ordered my fuel lines from Len Cummings (BoxsterGT). Of all the things that might leak if you don't replace them, that is the one item where failure is catastrophic.

[jm13004]

Colb,
Thanks for the offer. I'll look at the cylinder head sensor this weekend to see if it's been updated and let you know. Thanks for the the other guidance as well....I keep refering to your thread and Smoove's along the way.

Also, I just looked at PO's receipts and the bearing update was done with clutch at 81K...I now have 145K. Question, do I need clutch alignment tool inserted into center of clutch BEFORE removal? Bentley says to do this but I thought it was only needed prior to installing new clutch.