Engine drop
 

Well brothers and sisters the time has finally come to take the big leap and drop the engine. Lots of pats already purchased and a few more to get :).
Will start addressing all vacuum leaks, thanks tony! Elictrical issues, thanks Dennis!
The coupler whisperer, tirwin and everyone else for all of your insight experience, and knowledge you have shared along the way.
So here's to another beginning in the porsche DIY saga.
This will not be my last post on this topic as I will dip into the well of knowledge this great board provides. ;)
yes I have included the compensatory engine drop pick.

Cheers my friends,

Garyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395019487.jpg

Nice work! Have fun with all of the "while I'm in heres".

Sounds like you have a good list going so far. Did much of the same on my SC while doing a clutch.

Cooper

With all the planning, research and parts collecting you've done, the work ahead of you will be the easy part!
Keep us posted on the progress and feel free to ask any questions you have.
You have my number if you need it. :)

Hey, Gary. Until a few months ago I lived in Novato. Still nearby. I'm no expert, but I've been through the whole pop-your-motor-and-fix-things a few times. So if you ever need an extra pair of hands give a shout. Good luck, and have fun!

Thanks all for your encouragement and offers. I will be in touch.

Thanks,

Gary

Engine Stand Adaptor Ring
 

Can't seem to get the Engine ring adaptor past Heat exchanger/muffler exhaust.
Any tips or tricks while its still on the dolly to get it to clear so I can mount if flush would be greatly appreciated.
CIS has been removed. What an oily mess. Lots of clean up to do. Few pieces popping and falling on the floor. Will have to figure out where those few bolts and brackets went:)
Stay tuned and any advise is appreciated.

Garyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395426213.jpg
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Congrats on the drop.

Regarding the engine ring for your engine stand: there is a conversion ring/yoke for you to mount that looks kind of like a spider you use instead of the the standard one - otherwise, you have to pull the cross-over exhaust pipe(s) to put that on the engine stand.

That said, looking back - I grabbed the engine from Dad's garage already mounted to the stand - and I did not buy one of these yokes. There are clearance issues as well when you want to pull the flywheel to replace the seal back there.

The yoke will be purchased for my next drop in the future.

Some of us with clearance issues with yokes and adapters ground away some metal to clear the exhaust/exchangers.

Awesome. Great idea.

Thanks!

Yes, just grind that little interference. I had to do that with my 87.

WOW, some "Brothers" close to me! Baby, I live in Sonoma TOOO!


Serge

Old Timing Chain Tensioners
 

I have now discovered that I have the old timing chain tensioners on the car. Amazing that they have lasted 188,000 miles or if they were re done it was done with the old tensioner style, not the carrera tensioners.
So it looks like I am going to have to suck it up and drop another 1k + in this car. Holy moly. Good thing I am having fun.
I plan on buying the kit. Should I also pick up the idler sprockets and a new chain, while I am in there? Anything else?
I have read a lot, and am getting differing opinions. I have spent enough money on this ride already, I don't plan on stopping now.
All the way baby!


Thanks,

Gary

here is more Engine Drop info in my thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/764914-what-fastest-drop-engine-time-did-you-guys-have.html

Right on! So far in sonoma I've seen a black one a couple times and a silver one with OR plates. Either of those yours, Serge?

Back on topic, if it were me I'd have a look at the chains and sprockets. That should make the decision easier.

The stock tensioners can be rebuilt. I have rebuilt the ones on my '71 a couple of times without problems. Chain saver collars are good insurance. Of course if you have the funds most folks will recommend Carrera units. I have seen used ones for sale...

You didn't say if you are considering a top end rebuild or just a reseal? Post a picture of your chains, sprockets, and tensioners when you pull the chain covers off. It may be possible to see if the chains are worn.

Btw Wew, if you're replacing your clutch, I'll buy your old one. OR, you can give it to me, I'll use it to make an input shaft immobilizer then return it for your transmission rebuild (hopefully a long way down the road).

Thanks fellas. I am not planning on doing the clutch. All was/is fine with that part.
The engine is in overall good health, so I am not planning on a rebuild. Of course I want to keep it that way, hence the chain tensioner upgrade. Yes I alway wonder if I am overkilling myself by ordering every little part and upgrade option. Even some of the hoses are crazy expensive. And on top of it there is a crack on my airbox, so I need to order another one of those... holy friggin moly
As soon as I get the stand adapter ground down so I can mount it, I will take the covers off and take photo's to share with the brain trust.
Thanks and stay tuned.

Gary

Frustrated
 

Hi there,

Two snafus early on.
Snafu one: airbox - pulled it off and realized there was a fuel line snapped off the housing portion to the airbox. Awesome. 78sc 44m = $400+
Now heat exchanger exhaust removal last Allen nut is stripped and in a tough spot
So I am contemplating taking the sawzall and just cutting it off for easy access to the last bolt. But I think that would mean new heat exchangers. Oh lord I think that will set me back another 1g larges and change.
Is there any salvaging , saving the situation or do I cut it out and and another $1500+ to my restore budget. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396060677.jpg
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Patience! What do you mean by stripped? Is the head of the screw stripped? If so, you might try clotting a slot in the top and using a horizontally held screwdriver or similar lever. Cycles of penetrant and heat first.

A couple days of repeated PB Blaster, large easy-out, heat it til it's red with oxy-map. It should come right off. If you can't get a grip with an easy-out, then zap it with oxy-acetalene and deal with what's left of the stud later. If you have to go that route be VERY careful near the surrounding aluminum, very easy to destroy it. I wouldn't trash your heat exchanger over a stripped nut. Use new copper nuts with anti-seize when you reassemble to avoid this in the future.

Baby's comment of patience is also key. I took weeks tearing down my first engine, learning every nuance. The next one took a few days.

Hey baby,

That's funny. Anyway back to frustrations. The opening that the Allen wrench goes into is stripped. Allen wrench just spins. Still hitting it with PBS blaster and have heated it twice. Any good tricks to solving, I am all ears.
Based on the photos are the heat exchangers worth saving?
Airbox experts, jb weld or take no chances and pony up $425 large and get a new box.
Of course I cringe at the thought of buying a new box and drilling a hole in it for the pop off valve.
Opinions and input are appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time.

GarySmileWavy

One thing I learned is that I used to just trash and wreck a lot of ok parts and pieces because I planned on putting new on. I soon saw others selling used parts in similar condition and wished I just didn't hack them apart. One mans trash is another mans treasure and you would be surprised what some old worn, rusty but original parts go for.

How YOU doin? :) As you know by now, the worst of the teardown is when you run into dead ends like this. Stuck bolts, etc... Sometimes your progress stops for a few days. It's frustrating, but catharsis isn't always comfortable.

So you have a stripped exhaust bolt. No big deal. The most extreme thing you should need to do is to cut off the head of the bolt. Before you do that, take Prime's advice and do some soak/heat cycles for a couple days. I can't tell how much clearance you have, but you can use an ez out or as I suggested before, use a dremel to cut a slot across the top of the bolt and then stick a lever in the slot and apply pressure. Can you get a vice grip on the head? Can you get a Dremel in there to cut off the head? Then you can pull off the exchanger and ez-out what's left of the bolt. It'll come to you. But no matter how you end up attacking the head, when it comes time to unscrew the bolt, cycles of heat and pb blaster or kroil or whatever is the way to go.

As for the airbox, I'm no expert, but it seems lots of guys expoxy cracks. Don't know if that would work on a piece that supports the weight of a fuel line, but I'd bet if you do it right the expoxy would be stronger than the plastic. Might not look that great though. As an alternative, you can probably find a used air box for quite a bit less than 4 bills. Good luck!

I would weld (with my wire feed welder) a long bolt to that stripped nut. A wrench on the head of the bolt and it should come out easily.

Gary -

Those allen-head heat exchanger bolts are a pain to deal with when they're stripped. I had one that was not stripped, but a PO put a non-porsche replacement stud in there that interfered with the Allen wrench head when attempting to remove it. That was good times.

The way that I would attack this is NOT to cut your heat exchanger off. I would get a socket driven allen driver, the next size up (from normal) and tap it in the nut, and after MANY treatments of the PB blaster, I would (slowly) turn it outta there.

Your repairs on this car require patience. The best part about this car (in my opinion) is that it's not your daily driver (...I don't think) and it is not a car that HAS to be on the road with a "do-or-die" deadline to get back on the road.


On to the airbox: that can be repaired with epoxy. JB weld does wonders, use the slow-set stuff. After you're done with the repair of the airbox, TEST it for air leaks.

If you don't trust that you can repair that section on your own, keep an eye on the parts FS section, and you can pick one up that you can use. Trouble is that -- you can pick up a used one and it may leak air already, bringing you back to 'square one' and having to repair it anyway. Buy a new one? I may have went that route had I knew (what I know now) back when I started this project.

Lastly, people on this forum are incredible. Gotta problem? Post some pics, and you will likely get about 4 solutions on how they fixed it, or dealt with it in the past.

Many thanks to all. Great advice.
Been hitting it with PB Blaster and heat. I will give it another whirl this evening using the methods suggested above.
I will report back when complete.
Thanks.

Gary

Mission Accomplished
 

Man was that a stubborn bolt. After repeated soaking and heating, to welding in a bolt to try and remove that way, it was finally 20 minutes of working in the tight spaces with a Dremel and cutting a gap all the way down the allen nut. Then pried out with screw driver. Unbelievable how seized on that piece was. It should be quite the adventure actually removing those posts. I can see based on the exchangers that it is a good thing I got the turbo valve covers, to stop that oil leak.
I removed the spark plug and wires, and am getting ready to remove the harness and shroud tonight.
If anyone has any suggestions other than bead blasting the the heat exchangers and the exhaust to clean them up, I am all ears.


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Screwed
 

Brutal. Exhaust studs breaking. Even with tool. Drilling holes in studs and the extractors break. Irwin removal tool doesn't work against head bolt based on clearance. What is the best way to remove these
stubborn sobs?
Thx

Garyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397195030.jpg

With the heads still on the motor? I would carefully drill out the center of the stud. Start with a small drill bit, then use larger bits until only the threads are left. Be very careful not to drill any aluminum. If you are lucky and skilled you can then extract the remaining threads using a pick and pliers.

Or if the heads are off there is an EDM process that can be used.

If you plan to have a machinist do the heads, you could ask him to extract the studs with his awesome machine shop equipment.

A number of people have had luck MIG welding a nut on the stud and then backing them out quickly before they cool too much. The heat from welding it will normally break the bond.
Heating the stud red hot once the nut is on there may help as well.

Levi is nothing with out dope!