rear shocks install..top thread just spinning while tightening nut ?
 

I am not sure if I need to compress the shock but have car lifted by body points.
the top nut just turns the thread even holding the body of the shock below.
Am sure it must be simple. Please advise? thanks

Isn't there a flat on the top of the threads where you use a wrench to hold it while tightening? Some use an Allen socket machined into the end of the thread.

shock issue
 

The one removed had one [kyb gas shock] the new Bilstein did not. Are these removable?

Interesting. I just looked at my original green Bilsteins on the shelf and they have flats.

So it's just a shaft with threads?

What do you mean by removable?

When the nut starts to spin, how much thread is sticking out? Is there enough to get two more "thin" nuts on the threads and lock them together to hold the shaft?

it may have an allen key recess at the top.

I added Bilsteins in the last 18 mos. They have a 4 or 5mm recess in the top for an Allen key. -J

shocks
 

There is no space at top for second nut, but will check on the allen to hold position.
Thanks for good input.

ft

My '80 SC with original Bilsteins has the flats on the top, then an unthreaded portion so that there's room to start the nut while holding the shaft from turning. I'd take a picture, but they're in Ennepetal being rebuilt.

Just put Bilsteins on the 88. Rears use allen key as posted above. 5mm I think. Originals I took off had the flats.

Here's a pic of the easy way to do it. I removed them with a regular 17mm closed end wrench and got lucky the shaft didn't rotate.
I was dreading reinstall because you had to reattach the wrench after every little rotation plus the left side I couldn't even see what I was doing behind all the "stuff" on the 3.6 vram.
Anyway, I bought a 17mm ratcheting wrench and popped the allen key on the top to keep the shaft from rotating.
This took no time at all and my knuckles were spared!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395181063.jpg

I use a 3/8" air wrench and a long socket. Speed is the key.

Reviving old thread with a tip
 

The top nut was just rotating the entire shaft of the rear shock, and it is so hard to try to hold it with a short 6mm open end wrench, reaching into the dark recesses of the engine compartment. I rigged up the tool below which was very helpful. The recipe is one 6mm wrench, two sockets that nest into each other, a long extension, some duct tape, and the wrench.

Now once the flat lines up you can reach in the engine compartment with the long improvised tool and hold that pesky center shaft while undoing the 17 mm nut.

Why didn’t I install new shocks while the engine was out? I’m too dumb for that!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598832478.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598832478.jpg

no allen?
you can grab the top with small vise grips, let it turn 'til it wedges against the firewall.

No Allen on these, just the 6mm flats.