Help-Turnsignals Out!!! No Help in Archives

[Erakad]

I know this everyone's least favorite topic....but my deployment date has been moved up and I ship out in 2 weeks!

Guys -- I'm desperate! I've changed out the turnsignal switch (stalk) -- 4 different relays -- replaced fuses -- taken out and inspected each bulb. My freaking turnsignals still don't work!!
I truely don't understand the problem. On the socket, terminal 49a shows power when I move the turnsignal lever left or right. 49 and C show constant power. 4 Ways work with every relay I've put in...but never the turnsignals.

In my book, I should have primo working signals...guess I've been reading the wrong book....

Any ideas?????????

signed --

Desperate!

[Erakad]

bump

[RoninLB]

..does the turn signal lite on the dash stay on?......Ron

[warment]

Sounds like the turn signals aren't grounding properly. You need to remove each one and make sure that the ground for each light is clean and is making contact with the car body.

Believe me, I have had similar trouble. Clean the ground wires and if this doesn't fix your problem, clean the terminal connection on each bulb.

Bill

[Rick Lee]

Originally posted by warment
Sounds like the turn signals aren't grounding properly. You need to remove each one and make sure that the ground for each light is clean and is making contact with the car body.

Believe me, I have had similar trouble. Clean the ground wires and if this doesn't fix your problem, clean the terminal connection on each bulb.

Bill

I have this problem intermittently and have done EVERYTHING I can think of. I have taken the turn signal assemblies apart, scrubbed the connections, tightened them, blah, blah. How/where do you check for the ground making contact with the body? Where is that? Thanks.

[Jdub]

On my '78 SC's front turn signals, the ground wire is attached to a tab that is part of the bulb socket. It was VERY easy to miss this since it is cast into the bulb holder and you only notice the tab-like square when you look hard. However, if you have one wire unconnected to anything then you know you are not grounded. The color of the wire escapes me right now...

Typically only one comes loose at a time. If you have recently removed both turn signals then this could be a problem, but our guy is telling us that ALL turn signals don't work - that is out of my league.

In all events, if you have temporary problems with turn signals (front) I would suspect this wire.

Sorry not to be of more help.

John

[joehahn]

did you use that 'dialectic" (sp?) grease on any bulbs/sockets? i once did and spread too much of it on a brake light bulb with two filaments. when i would hit the brakes the current would carry into the other filament through bulb, through socket, through harness and light the front left turn signal. i too still have problems sometimes. learn how to do bicycle hand signals (not being a wise acre) as SOME signal is better than NO signal. (yes i have done it!)

joe 68 L

[Erakad]

Thanks -- as said it makes no sense since both are on seperate circuits. I will check the ground at each light -- are there any grounds I could have knocked off in the engine compartment - or- one that would impact both sides?

I really appreciate the suggestions and will try each...otherwise the wife gets to make a trip to electrician while I'm gone. She's not too keen on the idea (the car is a bit much for her to handle anyway) and I'm not keen with a P-car rookie messing with it. I almost have that schematic memorized, will go back and look for common grounds.

thanks guys

Rob

[warment]

On my 73, I have a ground wire on each front light/signal that connects to the side of each battery box. I recently had problems with my front left turnsignal being very, very dim. Turns out that the connections inside the turn signal were very corroded. You said you cleaned them though, so that probably isn't the problem.

I don't remember the exact setup on the rear lights(I should because I just replaced the left rear one!), but I think it has a similar setup. Also, a loose bulb may cause things to malfunction. Sometimes the bulb connections loose their "springyness". That is what happened(along with corrosion) on my left rear taillight.

Bill

[RoninLB]

Era...you confirmed that the flasher is operational, yes/no........Ron

[Erakad]

Ron - yes the 4 ways work just fine...and that's whats driving me crazy. Took another long look at the schematic last night and it looks like everything passes through the 4 ways before the turnsignals. Any chance a short or other malfunction in the 4 way would override function in the turnsignals?

Rob

[Bart911Man]

Did you change the turnsignal switch because you had THIS problem or to solve another.
49a shows power, thats good.
You have power between 49 and C, is that with 49a power on?
Did you follow all wires phisically to the different connectors?
I've worked on these circuits recently (changed US wiring up to EU standards ), to me it seems like you are overlooking some wiring "paradox" unther your dash or next to the steering colom.

If you don't find a phisical mistake, unplug your battery and resistance measure all wires from one point to another, you'll get there! Let us know what you find.

Good luck,
Bart.

[RoninLB]

Er...your turn signals stopped and then you started changing parts..the warning flasher still works which should mean that the lone flasher for both systems is OK..you checked the turn signal circuit so that seems OK..the flasher is expensive, but is it worth a shot to exchange it w/a friends flasher to eliminate some kind of internal flasher problem..not an pro on flasher internals....Ron

[joehahn]

how do you test resistance if the battery is not hooked up? and, Bill, do you have the light holders like mine that is a big, one piece, unit with a common ground on the back? I know I am not explaining this well but it is a ground line that plugs into a spade connecter that turns the whole fixture into a ground itself.

I am still having problems as you can tell!

Joe 68 L

[Jdub]

Others will chime in with the authoritative voice, but I believe that the power in the testing unit proper will output your resistance state. Resistance is really just "looking" down a wire to see if there is conductivity through it and the degree of conductivity.

My Fluke meter registers a beep if both probes can "see" one another down a wire when probes placed at ends (i.e. it has no resistance if the meter beeps: there is current). No beep means there is a breach or state along the line that is preventing current from end to end.

Did I get this right? I sure hope so cause that's the way I've been using my meter!

John

[joehahn]

remember when we were kids watching charlie brown and whenever a teacher/parent spoke it would just be a muffled gargled trumpet sound? well that's what that just sounded like to me.

if i understand you I can connect leads at different ends of the line and the meter will tell me if there may be a cut/short? if so that sounds good to me! Fluke meter?

[barlowdo]

If I got this right, you don't have turn signals ILLUMINATED/FLASHING at the front of the car as well as the back of the car ? But you do have flashers front and rear ?

don