Wheel paint recommendation

[mkc1962]

Its about time my fuchs got a face lift. Still sporting the original finish. In all the reading I am doing, it appears that the proper shade of black is a semi gloss or matt finish. Can anyone make a recommendation for an Automotive grade paint (Dupont,Nason,Sherwin W, etc) for the close as possible proper color. As a base clear would come out shiny/gloss I am figuring the closest is probably some sort of satin chassis black or the like. Not wanting any references to Rustoleum or other rattle can approach, I want to use the best I can get for the job. Thanks for any and all input.

[steely]

Interested for some touch up myself - evening bump at least

[Stutzdriver]

Rustoleum 7777 is a close match, I redid my wheels with it last winter, the wheels look great!

[Arne2]

Regardless of whether you use rattle-cans or something more professional, you want a satin black finish, not flat or matte. A pure black in satin sheen in your favorite brand should do the trick.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by mkc1962

Can anyone make a recommendation for an Automotive grade paint

I used Glasurit 22 Line for my Fuchs and Targa bar. It has been outstanding.

Here is a formula picture of the can of black my jobber mixed and a "side" of flatener so I could mix it to my liking. Gotta add hardener as well. $$

I don't think the flatner is 55 line - He just set me up with a quarter pint and the 55 label was on it. You can ask your BASF/Glasurit jobber.

It worked so nice. Single stage with hardener. No clear coat.

Don't discount the Rustoleum. Just saying. $20 for two cans and you can repair easily.

[mkc1962]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Ive used Glasurit a time or two and its premier stuff. But no longer have a supplier in my area. No doubt using your recipe on the can, my DuPont guy should be able to simulate.

I'm not against Rustoleum in the quart, thinned and sprayed. But have no desire to rattle can this project.

Single stage urethane would be my desired approach if obtainable in satin. Ive had excellent long term results with Urethanes not loosing color quality over time. Lacquers and enamels are bad about fading over time.

About to install a new set of tires, so its about time to refresh these 27 year old rims.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by mkc1962

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Ive used Glasurit a time or two and its premier stuff. But no longer have a supplier in my area. No doubt using your recipe on the can, my DuPont guy should be able to simulate.

Now that you mention DuPont, there was a discussion about Imron aircraft grade single stage urethane in a post not too long ago. Now THAT would kick butt as to durability.

Just an FYI, I used a primer that was a lighter color than the paint. Not the best idea as it still can chip.

I like just a bit flatter than satin. My formula is simply made up based on a chip that I liked and I still added some more of the flatener,

Good luck.

[Packy]

If I was you I would powder coat them, not paint them. The paint will hold up, as it does on my wheels, but there are times, like when the tire store uses alcohol or something to clean the wheels before sticking the weights to the wheel and some paint would wipe off. Not a big deal. But wouldn't, or shouldn't, be a problem with powder coat. Powder coats are harder too, which for a part that is vulnerable to abuse I would go with a harder more durable material.

[Flojo]

satin black RAL 9005

for the silver use white primer as shine-through clear up an silver RAL 9006 "white-aluminium"

[gtc]

After several years of daily driving, my Rustoleum paint job still looks great. Certainly better than all the powdercoated or gloss black repainted wheels I see out there.

Just my two cents, and YMMV.

[Bob Harriman]

SEM 39143 Trim Black
It is not a gloss







At your local Automotive paint shop. This is not available at a hardware store.

[Allan Kelsey]

This may be sacrilege, so please give me grace before I draw your ire, but I refinished my 16" Fuchs with a Brushed nickel and Dark Charcoal and satin clear - all from aerosol can paint applications made for automotive use.

Its been 16 months, no problems.

[porschenut]

^^ The paint looks like it was well done, but those wheels are kinda funny looking. Would probably look a bit better if you painted the petals black instead of charcoal, but to each his own.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Bob Harriman

SEM 39143 Trim Black
It is not a gloss

+1 This stuff is amazing. I would try this in a heartbeat on Fuchs now that I have used it on several cars.

[Arne2]

Originally Posted by Bob Harriman

SEM 39143 Trim Black
It is not a gloss

At your local Automotive paint shop. This is not available at a hardware store.

What does SEM recommend for a primer? I'm getting ready to paint my freshly re-anodized Fuchs, was planning on using Rustoleum (as I did a couple years ago with great results). But every SEM product I've ever used has been great, so I'm open to this as well.

[Flojo]

On bare rims I use a special aloy primer.
Sticks better than sheet metal primer.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Arne2

What does SEM recommend for a primer?

From the can:

"39143 is designed for maximum adhesion on properly prepared surfaces without the use of a primer"

Prep is to solvent clean wheel, 400 grit, solvent clean and spray 3 coats, 5 min flash time. 48 hours for full hardness. They want you to use their cleaner but any hydrocarbon based pre-paint cleaner would do it.

A primer would be fine if you are absolutely sure it sticks better than the SEM. I have no problems with the trim parts but the trim parts flex some. The Fuchs wont.

Around $15+ for a can. Maybe a second can would be necessary but this stuff covers well.

[Arne2]

Not sure there really is a "properly prepared" anodized surface. 400 grit doesn't do much to the anodizing.

Not really sure that a primer will do much better, really. Nothing much likes to stick to the anodized surface.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Arne2

Nothing much likes to stick to the anodized surface.

You could media blast the pedal (edit: petal) surfaces to promote mechanical adhesion if you are fretting it, regardless of the coating application.

I would not be afraid to duct tape the rim and sand-blast the pedals with a home DIY setup to provide some teeth.

[Bob Harriman]

I used a two stage epoxy/primer the automotive paint shop recommended. It was a spray primer with a button on the bottom of the can. When the button is pushed it releases and activates the mixture of epoxy with the primer.

Mask off, scratch pad, primer, paint. I primered several coats until the can was empty as when your done the primer is no longer usable after 24 hrs due to the epoxy activation.



Put quarters in the lug nut holes. You do not want paint in this area. Tightening lug nuts can possibly crack the paint, .