Procedure for setting torsen bar?
 

I am replacing the spring plate bushings on my 930 which is something I am confident I can do. My shop warned me not to do this as the procedure for properly setting up the torsen bar is a tough job to do correctly as the bar usually comes out when you remove the spring plate and is then hard to re-align if you have never done this before. Any good DIY threads or procedures would be welcome.

Not a tough job, just time consuming. It is trial and error thing.

Where are you located. I helped my buddy do his in 12 tries, for me it took about 75+ attempts, yes had to raise and lower 75+ times to get it exactly where I wanted it, but I have severe case of OCD, he did not.

You need an ANGLE finder, you can get one from HB freight, some white primer paint to help you mark the original settings to start from and a sharpy to mark the eccentric bolts/nuts. You may also consider building a Camber finder tool, buy a digital 24" level at Home Depot and some plastic bolts and nuts. Also make sure your rims are true, this too will affect alignment.

Remember every time you lower, you will need to bounce on the car and roll it back and forth to remove the pre-load. Disconnect the sway bar and struts/shocks as well.

Be patient, it will take some time. probably a whole day or two.

Jim

After disconnecting everything but spring plate is still attached...
Pick a point on the spring plate and measure plumb to ground.
After new bushings, readjust tbars until you can repeat initial measurement.
Easy peasy.


I use one of the rear control arm attachment holes at the end of the spring plate.

This fellow is pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqBw1kMJ_d8

Great video, my 2 cents, I don't think removing the brake line is needed. but disconnecting the strut and sway is a must.

Adjusting Camber and Toe is the real trick

If you're just changing the bushings and not changing torsion bar sizes, all you have to to is use an angle finder and set the spring plate back to the original angle when reassembling.

Here you go, this helped me allot compliments of Brother Will Ferch: 911 Spring Plate Angle Calculator

Only thing I would add, and I have yet to be successful using any method (close but not perfect - still in progress), is the measurements will be different from side to side unless the car is perfectly level, ground is perfectly flat, etc.

Believe the splines are different at each end. You can index the bar in the tub or the plate on the bar to provide different graduations of movement.

You can do it but research.

Also,I had the level protractor from the freight but did not account for the car not being level - or at least equal height on each side.

This doesn't look fun to me! Call me crazy. My car is jacked up and ready to go. Have bushings. Now I'm getting nervous!

It's not too complex, it's just grunt work. Lot of grunt work.

Lots of potential energy in the plate. Use your head and go real slow when you unload it.

I was able to move the elliptical bolt to reach my desired ride height.

Just did this on my 87.
 

It is a kinda big job but in retrospect, nothing that magical. I wouldn't do it if you can't walk away and regroup/take a break and drink a beer. It is a grunt job for sure. I had a helper who came by for moral support and had done his so we just motored through. The string alignment after is painfully slow, I messed with that for a few days but it was something I always wanted know how to do. Not sure how "perfect" it can be done but the car drives straight and I fixed my steering wheel alignment that a shop had left off about 5 degrees!
If you're including lowering your car, that can certainly make it a bigger exercise.
My torsion bars never moved so I just put them back on the same spline position and nothing was different when complete height wise. Make lots of position marks.

Another suggestion, you can download an angle gage app. for your smart phone, used that alot. Write down the numbers.

Don't drink any beer or you'll never get the job finished! It's like eating dessert before dinner.

No time for beer, you're working at it too hard.

The worst part for me was getting the old rubber bushings off the spring plate and getting the parts cleaned up.

This is looking like one of those what did I do jobs where I call AAA and blame the "mechanic!"

Procedure
 

Easy but stinky. 5 minutes with a propane torch. Grab with a pair of very large slip joint pliers, sometimes referred to as water pump pliers. Twist right off. Make sure its secured/clamped with the tube oriented vertical, remove upward one at a time.
Then use a 4.5" angle grinder with a wire brush. Clean and shiny in no time.
Do this outside.

I'm not worried about anything but re-setting the spring plates correctly. The rest I've got covered. My mechanic got me worried. Personally, I'd love to disassemble the whole thing, re-plate everything, install the new bushings, and have him do the setup.

Funny I just solved this very same conundrum here... removed my plates to lower the rear, and the bars were stuck within the plates and pulled out from the inner splines - awesome

solution A was buying Weltmeister Sway Away adjustable spring plates

then I smartened up before installing those

and

solution B was I sold those and bought Rebel Racing 500# coilover Bilsteins

done

8-)

(well, not technically yet - they're enroute)

all the dickin around stories of up/down/up/down to get it 'right' made spending the extra $200 clams pretty much a no brainer for which I am ovvvvvvvverly qualified...

Just saying. Not judging.

I've driven my car for 15 years with the spring plates adjusted.

I was chastised near to death by a Porsche Indy shop owner in Asheville, NC for even thinking of touching the elliptical bolt. I'll spare you the discussion but I was feeling small and had to really talk fast to let him know I was only a partial idiot.

What he said, and I got no reason to doubt him, and it's only one professional's opinion, is that they (plates) should stay in the middle unless you really know what you are doing with respect to setting up the car and plate adjustment should be done for high performance driving and not for street appearance.

Said to lower or raise it, index the t-bar only

No way man. The whole purpose of having adjustable spring plates is to make adjustments. Get them close with TBs but fine tune with SP adjustment. Street or track. Imho of course.

Beat to death,
A manual is worth its weight in gold.
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That's fair as I have heard the same going both ways. I did it for the first time based on Wayne's book. The change in ride height was very subtle but all that I needed.