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Heater Control Cable - replacement tips...
Had a heater control cable break so I set about replacing it.
To save others time, here's some helpful advice. 1: Do both of them while your at it. Just common sense and cheap as far as repairs go. 2: Replace all the parts - wire, tube and rubber grommet 3: You don't need to remove passenger seat but it would help. 4: You can slacken the e-brake with the adjusters at the rear wheels, but you don't have to. 5: Don't drop a flashlight into the tunnel while getting the new cable on. 6: If you do drop a flashlight into the tunnel - it being on will help find it. 7: Removing the shifter tower aids in this recovery, though it'll still take 30 minutes minimum to retrieve it. Cursing helps. 8: The nut and bolt that hold the wire at the flapper box is 7mm on top and bottom - it is a special bolt with a hole through it so don't lose it. 9: This will be far easier a second time. I hope never to have to do it again. Ever. Ever. That is all. My passengers will have heat now. And I found at least 64 cents in the tunnel as well, so there's that too. Great day. |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 1,432
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I feel your pain...at least for some of your repair. Nice post!
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Northeast Ohio 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1966 VW Beetle, 6V |
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Kind of Blue
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,310
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Sounds like if mine breaks, I will invest in a warmer winter coat.
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1971 911T w/ a 2.7 (ITBs, EFI, a bunch of other stuff, 2180 pounds with fuel) 2024 Ford Bronco Raptor |
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It's not that bad - like any time you dig into your never touched 40 year old car, things are going to happen. I will say, every repair is more pleasant in the Spring - except for the fact that you want to drive!
Carry on, boys and girls. The failures are part of the fun, right? |
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