Question on "While I'm in There" fixes - Clutch
 

In a couple of months I will be dropping the engine to change the clutch (and install my new PMO/Electromotive Yeah!).

I want to make a list of all the things I should be changing while I have the engine out. I've already changed most of the seals on the top of the engine but will do the rear main seal while the engine is out. I also plan to replace the fuel lines in the tunnel.

The transmission shifts perfectly now but does leak oil at the front shift input.
The engine appears to leak at the base of the cylinders. Engine was rebuilt about 65k ago.
Regarding the clutch - I have an aluminum pressure plate and everything currently works well - do I need to do anything more than replace the disk and surface the pressure plate & flywheel?

I'm open to all suggestions and hope to get a few long-term items taken care of but the budget is getting tight as the PMO is costing a small fortune.

Lastly, does anyone know if the PMO setup will require a new of different fuel pump? I'm planning to relocate my pump to the front but I also want to make sure the old '74 pump is up to the job.

Thanks for all advice.

This is one of those "how much money do you have to spend" questions.

Sorry, no one size fits all answer. You should start to prepare a budget and then prioritize.

It would help if you did some inspection, such as check under the valve cover for a pulled head stud. You also should consider changing the clutch related bearings and main seal.

The slippery Slope, but, we can save a few bucks, "while the lump is out"......
 

Hey Vern,

What he said, have a good pre-drop look.

How are the cv boots, (& how long has it been since they were packed?).
Fuel lines worry me a lot, especially the one by the left hot air dump.
Have a real good look at the clutch operating hardware, clean and lube, maybe a new cable, TO brng.

Clean the engine compartment?
Replace the sound deadening pad, (sorry, I'm an old guy with tinitis and hearing loss- but might still consider doing an M&K or a Flowmaster :-)

How are the trans and engine mounts??? (I'm going to give the poly replacements a try).

You may not need to have the pressureplate or flywheel resurfaced, just cleaned up a bit.

Best of luck,
chris

Your "Garage" write up does not say if you CIS or carbs. CIS fuel pump - too much pressure. Carbs need just a few PSI.

The throw-out bearing fork is always an item that could be replaced. Plus clutch lever bushings at the trans - not sure of the right term - the vertical shaft. Mind you, I know my 81, maybe yours is different.

Leaking at the base of the cylinders. Seeping/weeping or leaking? If leaking, you know the drill.

Check the headstuds? Do a compression test/leakdown before dropping?

Boat-tailed mains allow piston air movement to flow better past the journals. If you do bust the top end open, check to see that your cylinders are moon cut. I believe the two go hand in hand.

If you have a spinner, may be worth looking into. Pretty sure the benefits are in in the RPM stratosphere, though.

May as well reseal the "Triangle of Death" on the top of the engine while it is out. Those three items offer bang for the buck. Maybe replace the seals on the engine oil cooler. How about a pedal cluster rebuild, a new clutch cable, and a good greasing of the clutch fork shaft. I can see where rusnak is coming from, but the above are the old standbys.

Oh, and how is your engine sound pad? Get it replaced when the engine is out. I also agree that it would be a good time to scrub out the engine compartment.

Have fun!

Thanks!

The engine/fuel pump is currently CIS. The Clewett Engineering site states that I will need a high pressure fuel pump. I'm assuming that the current CIS pump will do but I will probably switch to a later version which fits the front location better (i.e., in from the back and out the front vs. side).

Money is definitely an issue and I just realized that I will be paying almost $600 in sales tax which really screws up my plans for extra items.

Most items mentioned above have been addressed (i.e, new axles, new fuel lines (except tunnel), most engine leaks addressed, Pedal cluster rebuilt 3 mths ago) I'm mostly making a list of things that require the engine removed to replace (i.e., main seal, clutch, etc.). I'm not sure what I am able to do with the transmission but I know it leaks at the input shaft.

The engine is sound and does not have any broken head studs - I've checked this. However, it does seem to have a leak near cylinder #6 and the base of the cylinder seems to collect oil. I have previously changed the oil cooler seals and all areas on the top of the engine. I think that I will steam clean the engine (again) and run a bit prior to dropping so that I can figure out the source of the leak. I'm not sure if there are gaskets at the base of the cylinders that can be replaced.

My list of to-do's so far:
Engine sound pad
rear main seal
clutch cable
clutch disk and throwout bearing
tunnel fuel lines & re-configure remaining lines for new setup


Now the only question: can I do everything in two weeks or a month?

The engine was boat tailed and it does have cylinders moon cut. Would this contribute to any leakage at the base of the cylinder?

I'd give a thought to rear brake hoses, rear suspension bushings, and definitely the oil thermostat o-ring and pressure switch. Maybe the crankcase breather hoses.

While I had my engine out, I put the Elephant Racing monoballs on the inside end of the trailing arms and their rubber bushings on the spring plates; a classic "while I'm in there" move. There should be no trouble from that quarter for some time.

I was concerned about extra noise and harshness from the monoballs, but so far no sign of that. I'm happy with the results.