What to look at on Cabriolet?

[1986911]

Thinking of buying an 88 911 Cabriolet. I am going to see it in a few days. I am pretty well versed on the mechanicals. Never had or even seen a Cab. Any tips on what to look for, how do I operate the top? Any locks or latches? Where do the bows or frame parts bend or break?

Thanks!

[TheRedSlantnose]

My 930 Slant has a powered top, so if the Cabriolet you're looking at has a powered top, there's a little switch under the gauge cluster on the dash, to the left of the steering column that operates the top. The rear window on a Cabriolet has a zipper, so be sure to unzip the rear window before you take the top all the way down. When you take the top down halfway, you'll notice a bar going across the inside; you need to tuck this bar under to keep it from flapping around in the wind, if you decide to drive the car without the top cover, but I prefer t use the cover since it makes the car look neater. When your top is all the way down, there are two hooks behind the back seats you'll use to secure the top so it doesn't fly around in the wind.

When your top is up, it might rattle a bit, so don't be too surprised if it starts making noise when you hit a bump in the road.

Good luck!

[Jack Stands]

Though they are quite evident, be sure to carefully inspect the clarity and attachment of the plastic rear window and the general condition of the top. They're not easy or inexpensive to replace.

[megerian]

Some of these are obvious, but here goes:

- Pull the parking brake and turn the key to the accessory position in order to activate the top
- As stated above, be sure to unzip the zipper in back before opening the top, as this avoids putting extra bends into the plastic rear window
- Operate the top fully open and fully closed several times. Make sure its in alignment, and that the left and right sides are even with each other as the top is moving.
- When the top is being operated, there is a small red light on the dash that illuminates
- When the top is fully open or fully closed, the light goes out, indicating its safe to drive the car
- The owner *should* have a canvas cover that goes over the cab top when its fully open. Make sure you check for this, since they are expensive $400 - $500.

[reachme]

In the backseat, there is an approx 1.5 inch circular black plastic cover, the mechanicals for operating the top are under there. Look at the bolt and if it is scratched up then chances are they usually operate it manually. If so this could cause problems for the gear-could. Not a caution more to learn more about how the car was used.
Look for the damper to the left of the fan in the trunk, pretty sure the 88 911's had these for engine vibration.
+1 on what Megerian says about the canvas cover, you need that to drive with the top down so make sure you have it.
don't worry too much about the zipper on the window if the owner doesn't. Some may call this heresy but I still have the factory top (weathered) but the window is tough as nails and I've never unzipped it. ever. no rips, creases etc. I suspect tops vary in quality.
Look at tops of seats for sun/weathering, look in floorpan for rust and operate both power windows to make sure they still work. Cabs let in a lot more weather if the owner is not diligent.
Good luck, Cabs are F'in FANTASTIC! Get it for the summer

[Dr J]

Also I suggest you check the window seals and that the windows don't come up too high. Check that they seal properly. Can you see sunlight? Will they let you spray water? The seals are also expensive. With the top up listen for wind noise where things may not be sealing right.

[LakeCleElum]

Drive at freeway speeds with the top up and see if the wind noise is tolerable.......

[Joe Bob]

The seals attached to the top and around the windows are major pricey.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

The seals attached to the top and around the windows are major pricey.

I really didn't think they were too bad. I just replaced my seals on the entire car with the exception being the seal along the top that seals the door windows, and I think I had about $800 in everything. That's all the door seals, seal for top to windshield, windshield seal, door jam seals... oh and some miscellaneous body trim strips when assembling the car after paint.

I'd check the seal that mates the rear bow to the rear of the car. My rear bow wasn't pressed down far enough to seal to the frame so it leaked. It's not hard to press down but you need two people. If the back window zips, check that it works both ways. Look from the front of the car toward the rear along the top of the windshield to make sure the top is pulled down as far as it should be. It should sit flush with the top of the windshield. Open the rear deck lid and see if it rubs the top when you open it. If it does, odds are the bow I mentioned above needs adjusted down. Look at the window glass seals along the top and the vertical window seal that seals the back of the door glass to the top. Those seals ARE expensive. If the top is manual drop there doesn't look like much that can go wrong. I'd just check that the alignment pins at the front drop in place without much force and that it latches. My car latches fairly hard but I just put new seals in it.

[Cattler]

I'd check closely to be sure that the frame doesn't have any cracks. Some POs have been creative in "fixing" them with Bondo, etc. and these repairs don't hold up. Parts are $$$ and hard to come by even from dismantlers. I have an 87 cab and have noticed a few recent posts concerning cracked main bows.

[1986911]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. I really appreciate it. Much more info than I was expecting.

[LjH]

when putting the top up see how hard it contacts the windshield frame. If it slams hard it needs adjustment. Once the top contacts the header panel over the windshield micro switches take over and pull the top in place and lock it. Slamming down is not good for the latching motors.When the control switch under the dash is activated to put the top down micro switches unlatch the top then the lowering motor takes over and lowers the top. If the top binds it will stop. If you force the switch the mechanism will snap. Operating correctly the top is a dream. If it is not adjusted it is a nightmare.I have a 86 cab. 86 was the 1st year for the power top. I hope Porsche got it sorted by 88 !
Good luck.

[Smoove1010]

I don't have personal experience with them, but I understand that there are cab conversions out there, and there are some tell-tale signs that you're looking at a conversion, and not a factory cab. While a good quality cab conversion may be perfectly sound, it's a matter of disclosure and knowing what you're buying.

BTW - my cab has a manual top and I couldn't be happier about it!

Good luck,
GK