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Fiberglass Flares

I'm about to complete the widebody conversion of my 79SC with fiberglass flares. The new IROC bumpers are trial fit and I'm ready to cut the old fenders.

I have read the post in the archives by Ed Villela regarding attachment of fiberglass flares that was posted on the 914 board. Does anyone have any advice on attaching flares on a 911?

My current plan was to use sheet metal screws for placement and to hold them when bonding. I will use fiberglass jelly to bond and reinforced body filler to blend. I was also planning to place some glass cloth when I blend to prevent cracking at the seam.

I have to admit, I'm scared to death to start cutting on the fenders and have been looking for ways to procrastinate. However, If I don't get it done and to a paint shop, I will miss an upcoming DE in November.

Any thoughts or words of encouragement?

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Old 09-23-2002, 06:03 AM
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'glass flare install

I read your post and it sounds like you have a fairly solid idea of how to install the flares. I might add that you need the car on the ground when you do your intial placement and cut. The rear suspension travels a bit forward when the weight of the car is removed from it. I've seen some people fit the flares too far forward because of this. It would also help if you blend the underside of the joint with 'glass to get a water tight seal. You should also have at least a 4" overlap of fiberglass to metal to get a really good joint. Don't tighten your screws so tight that you squeeze all the adhesive out, try to keep your adhesive at least 1/16"thick, any less and it loses it's strength. Once you have removed the screws be sure to countersink the holes very well so they don't come back later in the process.
Be brave and good luck.
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Old 09-23-2002, 07:42 PM
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4 inch overlap was how the PO of my car installed SC flare on it over 10 years ago, he did a perfect job for a DIY'er. My understanding was that he did them after the car was walnut shell blasted but prior to painting. Make sure you are attaching to bare metal and use an etching type metal prep before starting. I honestly can't tell how much overlap he used on the outside though since I can't feel or see the seem at all but on the inside I can definately see at least 4 inches from the edge of the metal to where the cloth ends.

Last edited by A Quiet Boom; 09-23-2002 at 09:23 PM..
Old 09-23-2002, 09:20 PM
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Thanks guys for the great advice. I plan on doing the flares once I have the oil cooler moved to the front bumper opening and the spacers are in place so i can see how the new tires sit in the fenders. I'll try to post some pics of the process.
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The Founders would vomit at the sight of the government that the People's lack of vigilance has permitted to take hold.
Old 09-26-2002, 05:25 AM
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Lothar,
Just finished putting on a set of 9" f/g flares on my early 911 -ST conversion. You've got the process nailed down. The only thing that I did was to create a flange on the body to improve the fairing in of the new flares to the body. I also did several trial fittings to ensure that the body mated well to the curves on the flares. Other than that. I used the same method you described. I would like to underscore the importance of spending additional time aligning the new flares with the torsion bar tube and the bumper. Take a step back and make sure that they all look "right" and line up well.

Regards,
Rick
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Old 09-26-2002, 07:06 AM
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To ensure a uniform adhesive thickness, can you add some kind of solid to the adhesive? Like microballoons, for example. That way, the adhesive can only compress to the thickness of the microballoons (which would be less than a sixteenth of an inch, but...)

I helped a guy bond some metal parts together once and he used this method, although I think the adhesive already had the solids in it.

Also, does it help to roughen the metal surface on the car's body where the adhesive bonds to?
Old 09-26-2002, 08:04 AM
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I ended up putting a layer of fiberglass fabric between the flare and sheet metal to allow it to "mold" and compensate for any gaps. I'm not sure if roughing up the metal helps to a great extent. I've heard that the key activity is to clean the surfaces properly with a good prep solution or acetone. I tested the bond this weekend by smacking the fender against a concrete wall at the track this week going 85mph and it did not delaminate. The body filler I used did crack but the fender-metal join did not fail.

Rick
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Old 09-26-2002, 10:45 AM
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Wow...I knew you could get a strong fiberglass/metal joint by using proper materials and processes, but I didn't know they could take a hit like that! I hope the damage was just cosmetic, then!
Old 09-26-2002, 10:54 AM
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It is imperative to clean the inner surface of the f-glass part when bonding , wax is/can be used as an additive in the final coat of resin when the parts, polyester resin has an air inhibited cure, meaning exposed resin will remain tacky. this tackiness allows more glass/resin tobe applied and maintain a chemical bonding link. Adding wax, spraying PVA, or just sealing the exposed resin with plastic will complete the cure of polyester resin in new part construction. Try looking for fiberglass panel bonding adhesive for flare install, easier to use than mixing up resins,hardners, and thixotropic agents (fillers!) there is good advice in making a good step/flange as to reduce the overalll filler use in the blend, as well as having 2-4" of metal to glass over lap. Iwould suggest to experiment first with some scrap and test your metalflanging, cutting and grinding, bonding, filling ,tools and techniques, then cut your car up...
Old 09-27-2002, 03:01 AM
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Lothar

How did you go with your flares ? have you put them on ?

can you post some pic's im interested !
Old 02-05-2003, 09:36 PM
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There's heaps of good stuff on this topic on the Gunnar site (example pic below) www.gunnarracing.com/project/

They do amazing work.

Ryan

Old 02-05-2003, 09:46 PM
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She is ready for the paint shop. I will post pictures this week. When I get home this weekend, I will download the digital. I used fiberglass jelly and some glass matte between the steel and fg flares. It was a lot of work to sand them to the point where they are today. The only way to appreciate the joint is to run the palm of your hand over them. No pictures will ever do them justice.

Thank God I don't have to make a living doing this or my family would starve to death.
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:12 PM
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I'm still hanging for those pictures !
Old 02-09-2003, 04:12 PM
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just a friendly picture

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Old 02-09-2003, 04:58 PM
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Never done this before but I have competed a bunch of boat work - I would think that two part epoxy would be the best bond - especially over polyester resin. If I was doing it, that is the route I would go.
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Old 02-09-2003, 05:22 PM
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Old 02-13-2003, 01:59 PM
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Late pics.

Sorry for the delay in getting these posted. The car will hopefully go to the paint shop in the next two weeks. The body work is complete.

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Lothar of the Hill People Gruppe B #33

The Founders would vomit at the sight of the government that the People's lack of vigilance has permitted to take hold.

Last edited by Lothar; 02-16-2003 at 07:21 AM..
Old 02-14-2003, 04:58 AM
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very nice project ! I am interested in the same thing!
Iroc conversion on SC body. Could you please point me in the right direction regarding where to get the parts? (flares, bumers, rear spoiler)...
Thanks so much!

carreraboy911@roadfly.org
Old 02-14-2003, 07:01 AM
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Lothar,

I am interested in the same info. Could you please send me the details as well.

dmoore@rim.net
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:56 AM
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Very sweet Lothar, I can't wait to see some pics with the paint.

Old 02-14-2003, 03:08 PM
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