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I was poking around the frunk the other day and took off the brake fluid reservoir cap to discover that I couldn't see any fluid anywhere. I checked the original '73 owner's manual and there was no mention of fluid level.
The brakes work fine, thankfully. But if I need to add some to whatever level you recommend, what brand/type should I purchase? Thanks, Tom |
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Tom I would fill up and bleed all the brakes, also check rubber lines and replace if original. DOT 4 and one qt will do
Ernie |
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Thanks Ernie.
Tom |
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76 911S Targa
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,150
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Make sure when you bleed the brakes that you push the pedal only as far as you normally do when braking. Pushing farther, as to the floor, will likely cost you a new master cylinder.
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76 911S, 2.7, Bursch Thermal Reactor Replacements, Smog Pump Removed, Magnecors, Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets, 11 Blade Fan, Carrera Oil Cooler, Turbo Tie Rods. |
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Not sure if that year has a booster, but if it does, its very likely thats where the missing fluid went if you can`t find an obvious leak.
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87 911 coupe, GP white, cashmere/black 64 Alfa Romeo Giulia TI - the violin 89 Peugeot 505 Turbowagon-other Pcar 67 912 coupe, white, sold 04 Audi Allroad 2.7T |
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Join Date: May 2011
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Here is my brake fluid level:
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79 SC Targa 72 T Targa Sold 68 T Coupe Sold 65 912 Coupe Sold 62 356B Coupe Sold |
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Tom is the pedal always firm or at times does it drop down a bit with your foot on it. If so your M/C is bleeding through itself. Just replaced mine this year same symptoms
Ernie |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,051
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A couple of things affect fluid level. The first is pad wear. As the pads get thinner, more fluid remains in the lines because the pistons are farther out of the bores and there's more room behind them for fluid. The second is leakage, and you need to inspect the open end of the master cylinder under the pedal board, the lines and hoses, and the calipers for wetness. Remember, when you replace the pads you have to retract the pistons in the calipers, and that pushes fluid back into the reservoir. Over filling the system and then retracting the pistons will cause a spill, which you don't want to happen. I recommend leaving a half inch air space in the top of the reservoir once the checking, flushing, and bleeding are done. Do all that BEFORE you top it off! BTW, a good flush and followup bleeding done right should require about a liter.
The Cap'n |
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Quote:
I appreciate all the advise. Think I'll have the lines flushed and bled properly at our one remaining foreign car shop. And have the pads checked at the same time. Tom |
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Brake fluid absorbs moisture so it is best to completely change it out.
If the brake lines on your '73T are of unknown age, replace them with new dot approved rubber lines, stay away from the SS lines. I would also get rebuild kits for the calipers and change the o rings and dust boots. It is not very hard, just have to pre treat the fittings with PB Blaster or equivalent.
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
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Suggest those who insist using the "pump-pedal-and-hold" brake bleeding routine should have one of these somewhere on your property:
![]() Pick an appropriate piece and place under the pedal. Sherwood |
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