Lowering an 89 to ROW question...
 

does lowering to ROW spec require indexing rear torsion bars? i have adjustable spring plates but don't know if i can get down without doing this.

It really depends on how much you need to adjust your car's ride height. Have you even tried to adjust it yet?
The first time I lowered my car, I did not and I drive the car like that for about a year and a half with many track days. I didn't have troubles. Then I had upgraded the torsion bars and spring plates. Since everything was apart, I had done it the correct way.

Just to be clear, from '84-on, 911's were delivered in the USA already at RoW height. The taller USA-only height was only for '74-83. For '84-on the factory height was the same for all cars, just as it was for up-to-'73.

That said, if you want to lower your car below the factory spec, the rear will probably need to be re-indexed. Generally, the rear adjustments are already at the lowest height. You can raise the rear without re-indexing, but not lower.

That's not true because I did it. I had to ruin a wrench to make it thin enough to get on the inside if the spring plate so the bolts could be loosened and then retightened the bolts after the angle was adjusted. Later when I upgraded the torsion bars I went with the WEVO adjustable spring plates and I bought the ride height wrench to make removal and reinstallation a little easier.

Depends if you have adjustment room left. Our host sells a thin wrench made specifically for adjusting the plates, btw.

I just tried this with my new '87 and it went down .375" at most... Looks like I will be reindexing soon...

thanks for the replies guys. my cab is stock height and it sits way above ROW for sure. i haven't measured it but can do so this weekend. anyone know where i can get narrow wrenches for the spring plates? any luck at a speed shop, sears, ???

As I noted, if it is at stock height, it already is at true RoW height. Which is not to say that it doesn't need to be lowered. Most people have no clue just how freaking tall the factory RoW specs really are. Most cars these days (including mine) are sitting at least an inch below true RoW height. An inch or so below true RoW height is what most people call "euro height".

I got a set of the thin metric wrenches at Harbor Freight. I've used them for this job, as well as for removing the oil pressure sender from the junction block.

thanks arne2. i'll be heading to HF tonight and gonna get some of those wrenches. i'm not looking to slam the cabby so 1" sounds about right.

Got a set of those. Given the wide range of sizes, these things really come in handy for the odd ball need - P-car or other.

$30 bucks on sale or so, right? And if you have to grind one even thinner, no big deal.

went to HF over the weekend and i didnt see the set people are talking about. can someone post a pic of the packaging?

what size (in know it's metric) am i looking for?

Here you go:

15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set

That's handy, but the other sizes in the HF kit are useful as well. I used one on my oil pressure sender, as a normal wrench was too thick to fit between the sender and the junction block.

Plus, there are always HF 20% off coupons floating around to cut the cost.

You can also get 24 and 36 mm thin wrenches at most bicycle shops.

Just trying to support our host!

Agree wholeheartedly! Just didn't know if he needed it yesterday. I have the one shown from pelican.;)

thanks for the suggestions guys. i really like the idea of having more metric sizes so back to HF i go...

Interesting.

What's the source of your info ?