Requesting explicit detail on how to replace fuel filter ?
 

http://i59.tinypic.com/2ue2vxt.jpg

I'll apologize in advance!

Unfortunately, the esteemed "101 Projects" book simply says "Remove filter. Replace filter. Done!".
As a mechanically challenged poster, I need a little more guidance than that.

None of the bolts on the replacement filter spin, so I'm not clear to me what moves and what's fixed.
Do you spin the filter?

Can someone spell out how you're supposed to remove it?
For example, "Put a wrench on nut #1, spin filter clockwise"
or "Spin nut #2 counterclockwise while holding nut #1 with a wrench" etc

There is a little more detail in the on-line tech article:
Pelican Technical Article: Fuel Filter and Accumulator Replacement - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

EDIT for correction: You do want the upper most and bottom most nuts to move (but do not twist/torque the fuel lines).

You may have to brace/block these outer most nuts with a locking wrench or vice grip, which must have leverage on something adjacent to it to prevent them from torquing the lines. Or you can grow a third arm, or have a buddy help you.

I found the fuel filter and accumulator sort of unnerving to work with, it's high pressure fuel you are dealing with.

you need two wrenches

I don't remember the sizes off the top o my head, maybe a 14mm and 17mm

you should have all the sizes at least between 10mm and 19mm

righty tighty
lefty loosy

Requesting explicit detail on how to replace fuel filter ?
 

Hold nuts 2 and 3 in place. Loosen nuts 1 and 4.
Top first, then the bottom.


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Are these 2 posts directly contradicting each other?

As I understand,
kach22i is saying NOT to spin the outside nuts b/c they will twist the hard fuel lines (So, are you saying to turn nuts #2 and #3?)

Meanwhile, timmy2 is saying to spin the outside nuts. (Spin nuts #1 and #4)

Anyone know which one is correct?
Are nuts #1 and #4 rotatable?
Or are they a fixed part of the fuel line and the filter needs to screw into them?

http://i59.tinypic.com/2ue2vxt.jpg

Hold nut #2 from turning
loosen nut #1

Hold nut #3 from turning
loosen nut #4

Hold inner nuts stationary while outer ones get loosened. Do this for each end. Order of ends doesn't matter IMO.

I replaced mine last year; procedure was exactly as timmy2 says.

Thanks for clearing that up!
Consensus says that the outer nuts #1 and #4 are the ones to run.
They must spin in place, while the filter stays fixed.

I wonder what kach22i was trying to say ??

Maybe, I just remember that you don't want to twist your fuel lines.

Like others said, two wrenches, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

The bracing I remember had to do with the torque being transmitted though the filter housing despite the two wrench method.


timmy2/pete3799 are right, but watch what's happening at the top and bottom while you are doing it.

This video helped me when I replaced my fuel filter.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sf4-NAvB_lc

Go to YouTube and search yellowcapgarage and fuel filter.

Edit: jonvi, you beat me by a minute

Takes some force, especially the lower ones...

I think when I did this awhile ago, I found it easier to remove the curved pipe on the top with the filer (there's another connection that's blocked in the photo) and then remove the top fitting outside of the car.

If this doesn't make sense, then just do what pete3799 says.

Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the (-) battery cable. When you remove the filter you'll have gas leak out, and you don't want any sparks.

Good luck!

Good video.

If your right arm is stronger than the left arm, and the right arm is doing the turning, add in some sticking from corrosion and that's where some twisting is possible.

That's what I remember, and that's my warning.

The video is exactly what I needed.
Brilliant level of detail.
Thanks everyone!

Requesting explicit detail on how to replace fuel filter ?
 

Spray a little Kroil on that top nut and let it soak in for a while before trying to undo it, it looks a little corroded.


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Residual fuel pressure..........
 

kachi,

That's is true if you just ran the fuel pump a few minutes ago. The residual fuel pressure would drop to almost zero on the gauge after 8 hours. So if you leave the the engine over-night, the following the day there will be no more residual pressure to worry. But there still be fuel in the lines but not under pressure to be of concern.

Tony

It helps to put the wrenches clocked about 30 degrees so that you can squeeze them to loosen and the same idea to tighten them up since it gets tight in there.

+1

Any way to stop the fuel p1ssing everywhere as I started on this last night but lost my nerve a little. As in can you drain it before removing by running the engine without the fuel pump on. Or is it just a case of using rags to mop up the spilled fuel.
Thanks
Ed.

Take the top bolt off, it'll spill a small amount. Wrap it in a towel or something to catch the drips.

Then take the white plastic cap off your new fuel filter and put it on the old fuel filter. This will create a small vacuum to hold a majority of the fuel.

Then begin taking off the bottom bolt.

It'll spill a little so place newspapers or something underneath.

Now carefully and quickly move the old fuel filter into a container upside down.

It holds a lot of fuel either way, if you find a way to drain it before taking off the bolt let me know. My method didn't spill so much on me.


81' 911sc - Weekend Project Car
09 GTR - Race Car

Good one NICHO!

This is exactly the right way to do it.... you squeeze the offset wrenches so they line up with each other. Very simple.

Have a fire extinguisher handy when you start up with the new filter, NO leaks, not a drop. Best to have an assistant start the car while you are in back looking.

wow by the time you read all of these posts you coudld have been done :)

dont worry youl be fine

Dr. J gave you good advice. Use two wrenches and make sure they are in a "V" formation. What you want to be able to do is wrap your hand around both wrenches and squeeze. Done in that manner, there is no danger of bending your fuel lines.

The new one should come with plastic caps each end. Remove the bottom line first and put the plastic cap on the old filter from the new filter. Next remove the top line. This should limit spillage.

http://i61.tinypic.com/6qbfr4.jpg

I finally got around to doing this!

You need to remove the outer nuts. (#1 & #4)
#3 was 17mm, the rest were 19mm.

I removed the heater duct, but did not remove the heater blower fan.
Is it hard to remove the heater fan itself?

Plugging the top line to create a vacuum that prevents spillage was a good tip.

Unfortunately, I had trouble getting the filter free and clear once disconnected!
When I initially loosened clamp around the filter, it dangled freely, so I thought it wasn't doing anything!
It did not realize that it was secured on that bracket!
The filter was stuck, and I spilled some gas on the wires below.
I wiped them off, but will give the car a day to dry before starting it. (or until the gas smell goes away)
http://i58.tinypic.com/1198qx0.jpg

I wasn't able to swing the wrench for the top nut, so I removed it via the rubber hose.
I then removed the hard line once the filter was off.
Filter was 20 years old, but probably only had 30,000 miles on it. Gas came out pretty dirty.
http://i61.tinypic.com/jt5i5s.jpg http://i59.tinypic.com/339rtrc.jpg

As I was wiping off the gas, a small piece of paper came loose from somewhere, and fell right into my heater pipe.
The OCD kicked in and I had to remove it. I did the masking tape on the screwdriver trick, only to have the masking tape fall off in there.
I then got to use my "grabber" took for the first time!
http://i57.tinypic.com/30lcaqq.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/2mpbscw.jpg