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I powdercoated the rods for fun. Also did this to my intake last night... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430053.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430195.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430198.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430214.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430242.jpg The two samples in one of the first pics has one in "signal red" and the other in "transparent red". I ren out of signal red so I shot the intake in transparent red and am I glad! I think it looks righteous. |
My preparation for the powdercoat consisted of;
- wash in simple green and 90 celcius water - media blast with walnut shells - soak in simple green and hot hot water and scrub - rinse many times - offgas the parts by baking them in the over at 425 for 30 minutes and cool slowly. I couldnt beliece how much oil had soaked into the aluminum. I opened the oven every few minutes to let the smoke out, it was definately motor oil burning off. - wash with 99% alcohol |
I got a little crazy with the powdercoating oven today. The lower covers are already powdercoated black and in nice shape. THe uppers were shedding their SEM engine paint so they and the valve train covers got translucent redified.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476592969.jpg I also checked the cams, timing and pistons and valvetrain. Everything looks good. I forgot which cams were in there, they are DR Camshafts DC 24 with 108 separation. I look to have timed them at 3.0mm overlap at 0 lash. Johns page doesnt list the 24 with 108 so I've asked him to confirm the right timing. |
John confirmed 3.0mm was good timing.
Got the motor all buttoned up lst night. I am planning to adapt the tbitz megasquirt to repurpose the stock Idle valve. It looks to be a +12 middle pin, ground one side to open and the other side to close. Too bad it isnt a true PWM. I also cleaned up and checked the throttle body and accessories. THere is a working throttle-closed switch. THere is also a 3-pin electrical unit on the throttle valve itself. I didnt detect a change in resistance across the pins as it operates but maybe user error is involved. Would love comments on this. Anyway, here she is... Thats a JB Racing 12-plug distributor, a Carrera intake, bursch headers, DR cams, MSD coils and MS ECU. A frankenporsche! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298500.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298566.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298587.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298588.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298605.jpg |
Oil catch can installed. Exhaust bung welded in.
- Moroso poly can with filter, a -16 fitting, and I drilled and installed a -20 elbow on the other side. All from summit. - Worm-gear clamps hold the can, those are vibration-mounted to the inside wheel well. - Blue fitting goes to oil tank - Black fitting goes to engine case breather - Removed the stock petcock drain and fitting -6 angled fittings - Drain feeds to upper 4-5-6 valve cover witha -6 bulkhead fitting http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262006.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262042.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262045.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262090.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262118.jpg |
John - do you have experience with a gravity drain into a 911 valve cover? I suppose the pressure in the valve cover isn't higher than that in the crank case generally, so oil ought no more be forced up into the catch can that way than from the larger engine breather? And whatever may accumulate in the catch can will gravity bleed through the valve cover when the engine is stopped?
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I don't get it, what would this do that the stock configuration won't? As I see it the stock oil tank filler neck has the same function as your catch tank. I would have wanted this on the hose between the oil tank and intake, but only vented to atmosphere and not drained back to the engine since it would be mostly water in it. Maybe I'm wrong. |
I think its oil vapor - not water, the moisture mostly goes out the filter to atmo and the oil goes back into the engine?
I was thinking the valve area has tons of oil sloshing around to lube the valve train and it that gravity drains back to the sump. The sump is vented to the oil tank is vented to atmo so there should not be too much pressure in that area? |
Its a sludge mixture of oil, water, combustion gases and gas, that normally gets combusted in a closed system (as most stock systems are after the early 70s).
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the comments. I have done this before, once on a supercharged car where there were strict can sizes for CAMS compliance. I also did not want any oil vapor back into the intake...that car runs 10:1 compression already with 13psi boost so I was wary of any detonation. That car puts down 500 hp at the wheels, revs to 7000 and pulls 1.4g in the corners without any oiling system issues. I did indeed grenade an engine, but that was due to fuel starvation. Dry sump fuel system in there now. I never found any sludge in the oil that would indicate water/condensation. It would be fascinating to have a camera inside the valve cover to see what is going on in there. I dont have any stock configuration bits to work from on this car, I am building it from a bare chassis. The theory (yeah lots of that in this car) is that both the tank and the engine case can overflow their water varpor fumes and foamy oil, respectively, to the overflow tank where vapor is free to leave out the filter. Foam is captured, supressed and fluid flows back down the valve cover exit. Any water vapor is boiled off and exits the filter. I dont think there would be a pressure difference between the valve cover area and the main engine case...there are 2 big il return tubes connecting those areas I imagine equlize the pressure. I know nothing for fact, but I have done it before and it worked great. No maintenance too. |
"I know nothing for fact, but I have done it before and it worked great. " Diogenes would have shouted "Eureka" if he had met you.
I have an intake valve cover with a hole in it, and have idly thought of machining it some and fitting a piece of clear plastic into it just for peeking in while the car is in the garage. I suppose one could rig up a camera (so small and cheap these days) to video while on the road or track if you trusted the plastic (use glass?) and the seal. Cheaper than a Spintron. From posts here and there I have learned from others that you can pull the cam chain box covers and idle the motor and watch the chain jump up and down without causing too much of a mess. But that if you try that with a valve cover off you will create one hell of a mess. The crank case and the oil tank both need a way to access atmospheric pressure, either to avoid a vacuum or to vent excess air (mostly) pressure. How to do this? The crank case uses the hose to the top of the oil tank. Didn't the MFI and Carbed cars just plug into the filtered air side of the stock air filter system? Similarly, the CIS and later systems did not have a separate filter for this purpose. Rather, the early CIS connected to the air box in the area above (clean side) of the filter. So only filtered air could get into the engine and oil, and any vapors (or excess oil) from the crank case and oil tank would go into the intake system. At some point (by the '80s SCs anyway) this point was moved to the rubber boot between the metering side of the CIS intake and the throttle body. This is why taking the oil tank cap off of an idling motor of this era produced an increase in RPMs - air was bypassing the measuring plate. But I'd not want any of that stuff into the intake of a race motor. Nonetheless, there is enough positive crank case pressure to force a lot of oil vapor out of a hole in the chain cover, as my experience demonstrated, so I haven't been eager to pull a cover there and run the motor just to see. |
I have seen top fuel guys running the cars without covers while adjusting valves, it wasnt all that messy but I dont remember if they had spray bars like ours.
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Pushrod engines receive lube via the hollow rods. Thus, minimal spray. Many folks install a sectioned valve cover to minimize splash and gravity loss while actively adjusting hydraulic valve clearance.
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Made a TPS bracket from sandwiched ABS front splitter scraps.
Transmission and motor ready to mate, just awaiting KEP clutch and flywheel. Rear and side windows installed. Oil tank hot cleaned and tested, refinished and installed. Startlite oil lines threaded through rockers and mocal thermostat mounted. Oil overflow tank plumbed. Engine tin sandblasted and powdercoated Rothsport crank and alternator pulleys, installed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg |
Seat heaters and coil/rear fuse panel installed.
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Transmission and motor mated, going in this afternoon...
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All right, I'll bite. Lightening holes in the shifter tower?
Is this a road rally car with a separate rear brake system? Needed because raising the shifter meant you couldn't use the stock parking brake? Will the car be on the road by the time of the PCA Club Race at Mosport if the creeks don't rise? |
Yes, speed holes all over. I wanted to do a car for me, with kein kakas given for resale or whatever. The reason for the raised tunnel was to get the shifter up where its comfortable, provide mounting for the hydraulic e-brake, brake pedal adjuster, and various controls.
Yes, the rear brake system is separate with a pull-lever locking the rears. |
Ignition system all wired up. JB distributor sends the locked-to-zero advance signal to Megasquirt v3. That sends a pair of msd boxes on pin 6 and 36 to their respective white trigger wires. Ignition circuits in the MS were updated. Idle control also wired in, a stock carrera PWM idle valve. Ground has a 50 ohm resistor, switched 12v and control on pin 21 Idle control on MS. Also pimped the MS box in powdercoat "Transparent Red."
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