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hasaramat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Disaster! Pulled crankcase oil return fitting HELP!

We are replacing oil return tubes in a friends 1971 911T and got to the last tube and noticed that oil return line could move. Upon further inspection we noticed that the fitting in the crankcase would rock back and forth a little. YIKES! We got the hose off and the fitting unscrewed by hand and was covered in plumbers tape. The top two thirds of the threads are damaged and the fitting has chisel marks on the outside, as you can see in the pics. There is about 6 to 8 mm of thread in the bottom of the hole that are clean. Has anyone ever repaired this problem in the car? Do they make a longer fitting to grab the lower threads? Helicoil? Insert? Epoxy? Any ideas?

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1999 Boxster
1980 911 SC Targa
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72 911 RSR clone (needs full restoration)
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:30 AM
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I think there is a thread saver or somthing like that available. Common occurance when taking off the oil cooler lines to the thermostat. Looks like it would work here. Otherwise it's helicoil or big cert type of fix. Careful not ot get metal in the engine.

Chris
73 911 E
Old 07-25-2014, 09:42 AM
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That is the oil scavenge outlet. If you buy a replacement 26mm fitting it will look like the one you pulled out without the buggery on the hex. I kind of doubt that a couple of threads are sufficient to hold the torque and crush the aluminum washer that goes between the hex and the case.
You might try chucking the fitting up in a lathe and taking some thickness off the hex so the fitting will seat deeper and catch the absolute last bit of thread on the inside of the case, but measure first to see whether that makes sense at all or whether you can even see additional threads beyond the standard depth of the fitting.

In order to put an insert into the magnesium you would have to drill or ream it first which means putting chips into the case probably. If you have the case split (as in, complete engine teardown) then you might as well have Ollies weld it up and tap it for a new fitting.

You should call Ollies in Lake Havasu and ask them what to do. Good luck!
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:48 AM
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JB Weld holds up pretty well to heat and oil. If no other choice, clean both surfaces, JB, install and let cure for 12 hours. It's pretty good stuff.
Good luck
Dave
Old 07-25-2014, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the ideas. Knowing the consistency of Porsche parts I don't think I'm going to find a fitting with longer threads. I think I'm going after a helicoil if I can find the right size. I'm not sure yet so maybe I'll wait for more responses.
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1980 911 SC Targa
1975 914-6 GT clone
72 911 RSR clone (needs full restoration)
2008 Yamaha Apex 375 hp@17 psi boost 525 lbs
Old 07-25-2014, 01:32 PM
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Was it leaking?

The oil drain plug on my 3.2 is stripped out, Currently there is a rubber plug in there that is held in place with a bracket that we made. I wonder if you could work up a double shear bracket to hold it in place for the next "few" years until you have the motor broken down for a rebuild and you can fix it properly as described above?

A temporary repair like I described might still leak though...
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:01 PM
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Here is my solution. This fitting from Patrick Motorsports has a collar above the threads. It is about 8mm tall. I am going to machine this fitting into the collar above the threads and try to put the fitting deeper into the hole in the case. I will probably use some type of metal epoxy also. I think this is the best option for an in the car repair.

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1999 Boxster
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1975 914-6 GT clone
72 911 RSR clone (needs full restoration)
2008 Yamaha Apex 375 hp@17 psi boost 525 lbs
Old 07-25-2014, 08:53 PM
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JB weld on the threads and that will work fine.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:24 AM
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X3 on the JB weld
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:42 AM
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Instead of JB Weld, this product (Loctite form a thread) is fantastic! Have used it several times to solve very difficult problems. In a problem like yours, you CLEAN AND DEGREASE the area, mix up "goo" and apply it to bad threads. Next, you apply a "release paste" to the threads on the fitting and screw it in place. After the set period, you unscrew the fitting, and you will see nice repaired threads. The "goo" will attach to marginal threads nicely, but will not affect good threads. It is a little pricey, but it is quality. Most any FLAPS will stock it.

Loctite Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kit 4.8 ml
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:04 AM
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The problem with JB weld is when you go to tighten the scavenge hose to the fitting, the JB weld will most likely break loose. As John alluded to, cleanup the threads in the case, and see if you can get more thread length by either machining your existing or a new fitting (I'd opt for the new fitting) so the threads can get more bite down inside of the case. Give yourself every opportunity to succeed. Additionally, you will need a spanner wrench to hold the fitting in place while you tighten the hose to avoid stripping the fitting again. People have a tendency to just tighten the hose onto the fitting without using a spanner wrench to hold the fitting and the result is a stripped case as you have just experienced.

Last edited by gsjohnson; 07-26-2014 at 10:17 AM..
Old 07-26-2014, 10:14 AM
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The whole "JB Weld" thing is a joke, right? I mean, you can't be serious ...............

The Cap'n
Old 07-26-2014, 10:15 AM
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That Loctite form a thread looks promising. I think I'll give it a try.
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1999 Boxster
1980 911 SC Targa
1975 914-6 GT clone
72 911 RSR clone (needs full restoration)
2008 Yamaha Apex 375 hp@17 psi boost 525 lbs
Old 07-26-2014, 12:31 PM
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Here is the new fitting from Patrick Motorsports. The collar has been machined 3.5mm so I should have that much more bite on the threads in the bottom of the hole. Sorry for the bad pic from my phone.
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1999 Boxster
1980 911 SC Targa
1975 914-6 GT clone
72 911 RSR clone (needs full restoration)
2008 Yamaha Apex 375 hp@17 psi boost 525 lbs
Old 07-30-2014, 01:31 PM
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