Trans and Motor Mounts- Type/Difficult? newbie

Mean951 · 08-05-2014, 03:53 PM

Evening Gentlemen,

This weekend I will tackling motor/trans mounts and shift linkage bushings. I can turn a wrench ok, but was curious of the level of difficulty in changing these? I have Waynes books, but pictures/details leave me with a few questions.

I will support the motor/trans, but will it move/shift alot once the bushing is removed?

Will the bushing just drop out once i unscrew the main bolt and two side bolts?

Do I Have to go through the engine bay in order to get to the motor mount nuts, or can I access them since i will have the car on a lift?

I was considering switching to "clubsport" mounts. Does anyone recommend these, or any other type of mount? The car will not be tracked.

Really appreciate your help,
Anthony

DaveMcKenz · 08-05-2014, 04:23 PM

The motor mounts are changed through the rear hatch, a lift will not help. The trans mounts are changed from below. Do one at a time and nothing will shift that much. Toughest part is getting at the small nuts on the motor mounts. Not difficult but can be frustrating. I used stock mounts.
Good luck,
Dave

Mean951 · 08-05-2014, 04:32 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the response! Im sorry, but what is the rear hatch? You can tell I am some what new to 911's.

Thanks !

Oh Haha · 08-05-2014, 04:43 PM

rear hatch is the engine lid.

Another tip-change one side at a time regarding the engine mounts. Put your jack in place under the engine and then remove one motor mount, replace it with the new one. If you don't disturb the jack, the new one should drop back in with out issue. You can use this method for transmission mounts as well.

DaveMcKenz · 08-05-2014, 05:07 PM

What Wayne said. I couldn't think of what it's called, but engine compartment lid seems about right. Change one mount at a time like he said.
Dave

RedCoupe · 08-05-2014, 05:10 PM

If your engine mounts are the type that the center bolts threads into the support bar, be careful when loosing the bolt. The stock support bar is not very beefy and can easily bend if you put too much effort on a big breaker bar. Use lots of penetrating oil and take it easy. (Personal experience talking here!)

schoward · 08-05-2014, 05:14 PM

Do one side at a time. I switched to porsche sport mounts all around and the motor ones made a really nice difference in throttle response and overall crispness and still do many years later. The old ones you could tell would get soft and deflect when things got real hot. I recall the trans ones were very easy to do - don't remember the engine.

I would do one set (engine or trans or shift) at a time and make sure no issues afterward on each change vs changing a whole lot of stuff and wondering where your alignment problem lies if things go awry.

Typ616 · 08-05-2014, 05:19 PM

It's one of the easiest jobs you can do with minimal tools (no lift, just a good jack that reaches high enough - a lift would be counterproductive), as long as you properly support the unit whose mounts you are replacing (engine, gearbox)... Just remember the orientation and order of washers, stuff like that... Simple, and I am no mechanic either ;-)

As for Sport mounts, you may end up loving them or hating them. No telling... directness & precision vs, noise vibrations and harshness... Worst case you can reverse the job in 30 minutes...

testa-rossa · 08-05-2014, 05:33 PM

I just did mine with the sport motor mounts. Very easy. Do one at a time. Once you start you will see how they bolt in. Just legos for adults.

Trans mounts are a bit more difficult because you need to get to the mounts that are underneath the car. Jack the car up as far as you can... just jack stands for safety.

I've been chasing rattles and redoing the suspension (30 years old). The biggest difference has been the motor mounts. More responsive feel and much quieter!

Bill Douglas · 08-05-2014, 06:33 PM

Dead easy. I did sport mounts on the SC and love them.

Mean951 · 08-05-2014, 07:51 PM

Guys, I really appreciate the responses!
I think km going with the cup style mounts. I don't mind the extra vibration.

Mean951 · 08-06-2014, 12:37 PM

Would anyone recommend solid mounts, even for a street car?

Thanks

toddu · 08-06-2014, 01:55 PM

I think the "most" you'll want to go with is semi-solid mounts. Rebel, Wevo, etc. You'll want a little compliance. I have blue pillows, which were fine for a while. I've recently installed a rebuilt engine with carbs and lightweight flywheel and PP, and may end up leaving blues under the tranny and going with black (a bit softer) on the engine. We'll see.

Todd

gtc · gtc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean951

Would anyone recommend solid mounts, even for a street car?

Thanks

No

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean951

Would anyone recommend solid mounts, even for a street car?

Thanks

Only Engine Rebuilder do...

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedCoupe

If your engine mounts are the type that the center bolts threads into the support bar, be careful when loosing the bolt. The stock support bar is not very beefy and can easily bend if you put too much effort on a big breaker bar. Use lots of penetrating oil and take it easy. (Personal experience talking here!)

+1, I got one on the shelf as well...

Mean951 · 08-06-2014, 05:39 PM

I was looking at the Wevos. Would you recommend those? I also found a full set of OEM ClubSport Mounts on Ebay. Are these a decent upgrade?

Opening the engine cover, the two motor mounts are right near the top of the engine. When I support the motor, the mounts remove from the top? So basically, the mounts pull in when you tighten them? The motor does not actually sit on the mounts?

Sorry for the all the questions, My knowledge is in water cooled cars. I really appreciate everyones help.

Anthony

Bill Douglas · 08-06-2014, 09:30 PM

Hi Anthony. The clubsport ones are ones I used and they just seem "normal". No vibration and the gear shifting improved. I suspect the engine was moving about a bit in the old mounts. If I remember correctly; I think I unbolted and replaced the engine side one at a time. Then put a jack under the transmission end and replaced them. It was pretty easy

michael lang · michael lang's Garage

Anthony, I would totally recommend the WEVO semi solid mounts. I went with the blue pillows for the engine and the blacks for the trans mount and probably would enjoy the blue trans mount that much more if I had gone that direction.
The nice thing about this project is that it's not complicated, bolt off back back on. When doing the engine mounts just support the weight of the engine with a floor jack while you unbolt the mount from the cross bar. As for the trans, just jack the car up high enough for you to climb underneath to get the mount out and use a floor jack to support the weight of the trans while you are replacing the mount. Good luck.

Draden · Draden's Garage

If your carbureted, don't touch a car with anything other than rubber OEM type unless you want float bowl issues. Way too much vibration on the needle valves and you'll have nothing but trouble even with a high dollar fuel pressure regulator. Street or track car, same issue. If not carb'd. Go for it.