Rebuilding pedal Ass.

[Amac]

Well I've put this off long enough. Got bushing set in hand,so
what's the scoop? How hard is this going to be?
This is about the only thing I hav'nt rebuilt.
Will be working on 84 930s, hope to ease petal pressure
of race clutch. Thinking the stock bushings may be binding
a bit.
Somebody give me push, any short cuts?

[82SC]

just did mine...removing the pedal cluster is a pain in the a$$

you have to be a 2 ft contortionist to get at all the bolts and connectors...

I'd suggest removing the seat...really easy...four bolts...to give you more room

look at parts diagrams to understand how the cable connector in the tunnel works...you have to lift it vertically then push it out

you'll have to lift the front of the car to remove the front suspension pan to get at 2 bolts there

if you have a big metal support connected to the assay...that was the worst...I had to use 2 screwdrivers to push and pry at the same time on the huge clutch spring, to snap it off...to get accesss to the allen bolt on the metal strut...and still I could only turn the allen key about 10 degrees before having to take it out and reinsert the allen key...

after that you can pull the damn thing out of the car...

search the archieve for advice on the roll pin...I didn't want to deal with it so I took my bushings and the pedal cluster to TRE and had them use a machine press to pull the roll pin and do all the bushings...I had to pay but I didn't want to drill and bang away all day...you could save even more money by having a shop press the pin out...do the bushings yourself in the parkling lot...then take it back in ad have them press the new pin back in...

good luck...email me or post questions if you need more clarification

MJ

[ccandgc]

yeah, avoid that da*n roll pin. It seems most peoples come right out, it took me 2 days a 4 drill bits to get mine out.

Afterwords, when its all done, your left foot will be happy again!


ChadC
71 911S Targa

[jluetjen]

Aw come on! Don't be such sissies. The roll pin isn't that bad. I did mine at home just using my bench-top vice as a press. First I made sure to oil the pin so that it would not bind in the hole. Then I backed up the pedal shaft with an old socket and used a suitably sized old bolt to press it through. I found it it was helpful to stablize the bolt a little bit with some vice grips or a set of pliers while I started to apply pressure.

Once you've done it, you have to wonder what all the negative posts are about. It's not that big of a deal.

[john walker's workshop]

it's not really too hard unless it's all rusted solid. the flat bar with the allen bolt on the left side of power brake pedal clusters is simply unbolted at the top and removed with the pedals. the pin can be a pain if you don't have an air hammer to get it started moving, and more than a few clutch shafts won't budge after the pin is out, regardless of how much you heat and hammer it, but the majority of them come apart without too much hassel.
if you're trying to decrease pedal pressure, that's generally a clutch problem. as the disc thins out, the release geometry changes in the pressure plate, resulting in a stiffer pedal.

[Jdub]

I'm sorry to say that we have lost a lot of information from this BB's database. I had a complete writeup on the sequence of remounting the support bar, etc. to the pedal prior to reassembly, but a Search no longer returns this information.

If you are careful about disassembling you will see how the sequence works. I would advise a fresh clutch spring at the pedal assembly. Also be aware that you may have to have a touch of weld put to the "ear" of the clutch pedal where it sits inside the tunnel. This is due to the brass bushing disappearing over time and the trunnion pin of the clutch cable digging directly into the clutch pedal "ear." This is often the notchy feeling folks describe.

You'll love the difference. If you have not already replace both the horseshoe (helper) spring under the trans and the clutch cable itself do so now. It is all of $125.00 I believe and will make a world of difference.

Finally I also was able to remove the roll pin. Just be sure that, the side you decide to drive the roll pin out of is clear of debris and any metal obstruction. You want that pin to come out without hitting anything that would curl it back on itself or cause additional interference.

Good luck,
John

[cmccuist]

I just finished rebuilding my pedal assembly. After I was unsuccessful in trying to hammer out the pin and drill out the pin, I finally hit it with the torch - oxy-acetylene. My pedal assembly was particularly rusty after having sat for a long while. Heating the pin to where I actually melted the exposed part vaporized the rust and it came out pretty easily. To disassemble the clutch shaft, I had to grind a little off the end as it had mushroomed some over the years. That roll pin is a nemesis and has turned a one or two hour job into an entire days labor.

Craig

[Amac]

Thanks for the input guys.
I'm on it this weekend, I'll kick that roll pin's ass
or tear it up try'n.
Peace, Power, Out.

[Jdub]

I am beginning to believe that a pedal reassembly service might survice in the Pcar market. Send in your core (or deposit), get a rebuilt pedal assembly, bolt it in. No roll pin and you're drinking beer by five.

John