Replace accel pedal busing in situ
 

Well, I just went to install my new Rennline REV2 pedal, and find the gas pedal bushings are non-existent. All other bushings were replaced by PO (according to some receipts I read through), not sure why that one was skipped.

Anyway, need to order a rebush kit it looks like.

My question is, with the bronze kit, am I going to be able to get the new bushings into place without removing the pedal box? There is no other sloppy movement, just the gas pedal.

Todd

What? The accelerator pedal on an 81 is a plastic/rubber hinged piece with no bushings.

Post a pic pls?

Not the pedal itself, down at the cluster where the rod from the pedal and the accel rod down to the transmission bell crank meet.

Todd

I did my '87 with a Rennline replacement accelerator. No bushing required. Post pics if you're having difficulty.

Good luck!

Just saw your last post. There should be helper springs to take up the slack both at the pedal itself and at the throttle body I believe.

Pretty sure there is a bushing in there on both sides (well, supposed to be, mine is missing). Here -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409418589.jpg

The whole thing I'm holding wobbles about a quarter of an inch.

Todd

When the accelerator bushings fail, no springs are going to help. When my accel. bushings failed I was running up through the gears entering the interstate and the throttle was stuck at WOT... an interesting experience as the accel. pedal just flopped around.

Even if the prev. owner replaced the other bushings and not the accelerator (which doesn't make a lot of sense) it might not be a bad idea to go ahead pull and replace all the bushings in the cluster.

Todd, you can tell by looking that the bushing has disintegrated, there should be no free play. No idea if you can replace it without pulling the cluster however.

Guess I'll order and try. No worky, my 20 minute Rennline pedal replacement will turn into a much longer job.

Todd

Yeap, you need the bushing there. it is tight but it can be done in the car. If you remove the seat your body will thank you :D Also re-check your throttle play to insure you get full throttle after replacement, it may take up or loosen your slack.

Patience and being careful will get you through this. It's really not that difficult to do it in the car. Take care with the cotter pin when you pull it, get all the bits of the old bushing out, press the new ones in with your fingertips. Lube the shaft.

The Cap'n

+3 or 4 on being able to do it in the car. Never any fun working down there, but doable. Saves lots of time.

I did'em in situ...

Working on the same thing for my 85 last night. Throttle not opening all the way, so I'm checking all the plastic bushings starting at the accelerator-one side of mine was totally gone. I bought a $4 small diameter brush at the hardware store and ran it in there to clean it out before I pressed the new bushings in. Hope to get back on it this afternoon.

What should I lube the "ball & socket" joints with, bearing grease?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499908.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499960.jpg

Just purchased bronze ones this AM myself. I know they'll be harder to press in, but hopefully they won't be too tight to squeeze in with a C clamp or nut/bolt and some washers to press in.

Todd

I bet the bolt & washers would work. Take a look at the tunnel side of the tube with a mirror if you can. My tube had a slight burr on it, didn't worry about it with the plastic bushings but if you have one it might keep the brass from going in square...imho

Don't worry the brass ones slip right in, the pita is get the ball end cap off, use a small vice grip, hold it straight and push back until it pops off.

I found it better to disconnect at the bell housing to allow less load on the linkage while you are working on it.

Whoa, is that black rubber piece OEM? :confused:

Nevemind, it sure is. looks like a bushing in the PAG diagram. 901-423-193-00

I ended up cleaning the hard black stuff out of the sockets and putting in some lithium based multi-purpose grease with moly as the top "ball" for the pedal linkage was galled.

Checked my throttle after and it seems to be opening all the way now. First test drive last night I could tell no difference in the performance, but it was a short one. Second drive this morning was 90 minutes and felt a little zippier...

Does the '85 Motronic have to relearn anything since the throttle is now opening completely?

IIRC, the Motronic system in an '85 is pretty "dumb", and there is no capacity for "learning". I could, of course, be wrong on that.

The Cap'n

Agree with posters as to not having to mess with the pedal cluster, as well as it being a PITA down there. I just finished a pedal bushings rebuild and replaced a broken clutch cable. I did go with the bronze kit, however for the bell crank bushings I went back to the originals for two reasons. One I cracked mine when I accidentally used a hammer instead of rubber mallet during installation, and two the nylon felt smoother against the metal bell crank rod, plus no one sells just those 2 bushings by themselves.

Enjoy your tinkering....

901-423-253-00-M105

Todd

Keep Us Updated - With Photo's
 

Todd,

I found the same thing as I was adjusting linkage for my carbs - the rest of my pedal bushings were replaced with bronze bushings, but the pedal lever wobbled like it had no bushings at all.

If you pull it off without removing - appreciate if you can document and photo your process.

Thanks, Gordo

Bushings showed up today Gordo (just the accel bushings). My new baby girl showed up this week too ;-), so may or may not get to it in the next day or 2, but hoping so. I'll take pics and let you know how it goes.

Todd

Well, that was a lot more worry than necessary. Put bushings in freezer and they slipped right in. Took all of 20 minutes. Haven't checked too see how much better it feels, but no more wobble.

Bushings
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958598.jpg

All separated
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958776.jpg

Test fit before bushings get pressed in, just in case
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958842.jpg

Good as new (need a new cotter pin, and vacuum up after drilling for Rennline pedal covers)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958908.jpg

Todd

Sweet...
 

Thanks Todd,

Will add that one to the quick project list of things to do while I'm working my linkage.

Gordo

Draco, I found your comments on replacing the accelerator cable bushings in the tunnel, but, as this is my first porsche, could use some further clarification on the one under the shifter: You suggest marking the shifter housing before taking the bolts out and moving it out of the way-do you mean marking it for front to back and side to side orientation on the tunnel? Other two bushings are completed as you described...thanks for the help!

Ok, I think I've got it: you're taking out the shift lever coupling and rod as an assembly so you mark the connection at the rear coupling to get it back in the right spot.

I'm going to see if I can get the accelerator cable bushing without removing that.

If I can't, now that I'm in there, I think I'll order the rest of the bushings in the shift assembly and do the accel one when I do those...

It's not like I dropped the engine by myself, but I'm going to reward myself with cold Banquet anyway!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1417299985.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1417300025.jpg

Speaking for 3.2s, if you haven't replaced the accelerator pedal arm bushings, PLEASE take all of 10 minutes to inspect. This is a safety issue. Our toys are old.

I was on the interstate, went to pass some traffic, pedal got stuck WOT! I had just up-shifted from 4th to 3rd and so my instinct was to try to pop it out of gear since my hand was still on the shifter. Shifter was jammed and wouldn't pop out of gear, my guess is because it was under full load. Fortunately my next instinct was to put the clutch in to remove the load (RPM limiter works, check!). I got home and upon inspection the plastic (nylon?) bushings were nonexistent! WTF puts a plastic bushing in a critical path? Why Porsche does and so they just won my Engineering Excellence Dildo of the week award.

So... perusing our host with the most, PP has a Stoddard kit for the cluster. It has bronze (brass?) bushings for the accelerator pedal arm (same for the other pedals too). I suspect these are superior to the plastic OEM replacements. Replacement was quick easy and did not require any removal of the cluster. Took all of 20 minutes for the accelerator pedal arm portion (spent some time cleaning things up). Do save the washer cotter pin side, the kit doesn't come with one (WTF Stoddard?)! I have saved the other parts and will get around to the rest of the cluster as time permits.