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Gas pedal unresponsive

Was shifting gears and pressed gas pedal but nothing happened. Car "runs" but gas pedal is unresponsive. No fuel goes in and no increase in rpm when I press pedal. Is this a DME issue or something else? Thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:07 PM
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Check your throttle linkage. The easiest thing to do is to ask a helper to press the pedal and see if the throttle body arm moves in the engine bay. If it doesn't, check at the bell housing to see if the end cap popped off, if good then check at the pedal cluster.

Since you mentioned it has a DME, it must be a 3.2. so check the mechanical component first then electronics. But I think yours is a mechanical issue, if the car is on but no pedal play.

It would also help to know what year your car is.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:14 PM
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87 coupe 3.2. Thank you.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:28 PM
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As noted, check your linkageds. I bet a loonie one of the 7 or so ball joints popped out. Look at it this way, better than sticking full throttle, which a few of us have unfortunately found.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:56 PM
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I'd start by going back to the engine compartment and finding the throttle linkage, actuate the linkage and see if it throttles up. There will be a rod that runs down to the bell crank on the transmission, check to make sure it's still connected. I think it's a ball joint in the engine compartment and a loop at the bell crank. If that's all good, move forward into the car.
Old 09-04-2014, 02:40 AM
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Thank you all for the help. I found the part that is not connected. The rod that connects to the throttle piece was disconnected at the far end. I could stick my hand down there and feel that it was off. It feels like a ball and socket type of joint and I was able to push the socket on the rod back on to the ball. Car then ran (and accelerated). However, when I accelerate aggressively it pops off again. Is this a simple fix? Is there a way to access this piece without making a mess of the engine? I am handy but have very little experience with engines. Thank you in advance.
Old 09-07-2014, 03:53 PM
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A visual is now required. The socket may have lost its latch , if the 87s have one. The ball/socket may be worn.
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Old 09-07-2014, 04:06 PM
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What can/should I remove to get access? Or is this the point when I take it to my trusty mechanic?
Old 09-07-2014, 04:08 PM
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Someone else will have to chime in. I have the easy to work on 911 model.
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Old 09-07-2014, 04:11 PM
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There are 2 bell cranks - one on the side of the transmission, and one on top of the engine.
The side one is accessible by jacking it up and removing the left rear wheel.
The one on top of the engine is a bit tougher unfortunately and will involve removing the intake.
I got to mine as part of some work I was doing to the entire intake a few years ago.
Having said that, you may be able to get to it by removing the Air filter, AFM, and throttle body alone.

For some of the ball and socket joints, there may be a little cir-clip like wire. This may be your culprit - only one is shown (on the right) in the pic below.
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:18 PM
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Here are 2 pics, one looking down left of the TB in-situ, you can see the linkage - I don't see the clip I mentioned.
In the other pic you can see the beast sitting on the top left hand side.

Stay tuned to see if someone has a better method to access it.


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Old 09-07-2014, 05:26 PM
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Looking at your parts diagram, the culprit is the rod shown on the top right. The end that keeps popping off is the bottom end which shows a clip. Either the clip is missing or has broken off. Mine simply has the ball and socket. I have read that some (earlier) 911s did not have the clip. I would think my 87 would have. Can I access that joint through the left rear wheel well? Or will I need to disassemble parts of the engine (which scares me)?
Old 09-07-2014, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpgelb View Post
... Either the clip is missing or has broken off. Mine simply has the ball and socket...
Half of mine were missing them as well.

You can use these @ $5.50 a piece 1983 Porsche 911 SC Convertible - Fuel System - Page 4



or these @ 100 for $1, tread them in and bend the end. Work like a charm.

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Old 09-07-2014, 06:52 PM
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The simplest of questions, how do you get enough access to manipulate the pins? I can barely work my hand in there to touch the joint. What pieces/parts do I remove?
Old 09-07-2014, 07:27 PM
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Whilst you are working up the courage to partially disassemble to access - a simple cable tie around ball joint will solve the problem.
Not a long term fix as heat from engine can make the plastic brittle but my as in place for 6 months
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpgelb View Post
The simplest of questions, how do you get enough access to manipulate the pins? I can barely work my hand in there to touch the joint.
There's your proof that all types of these cars are built by elves.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpgelb View Post
Looking at your parts diagram, the culprit is the rod shown on the top right. The end that keeps popping off is the bottom end which shows a clip. Either the clip is missing or has broken off. Mine simply has the ball and socket. I have read that some (earlier) 911s did not have the clip. I would think my 87 would have. Can I access that joint through the left rear wheel well? Or will I need to disassemble parts of the engine (which scares me)?
No, unfortunately you can't access this part thru the wheel well.
The other bell crank on the tranny is the one that you can access via the wheel well.

Take a look at DRACO's tutorial:
THE FIX: Binding Accelerator, NOT Pedal or Bell Housing BUSHINGS, not even @ Tunnel

And if you'll note, my figure from the PET parts list shows the ball on the inside, while my pic shows the ball on the inside of the crank assy.

Pull the offending linkage out and look for a pin hole on the metal part of the socket to see if it accommodated the clip that JJ 911SC showed.
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Last edited by steely; 09-08-2014 at 07:52 PM..
Old 09-08-2014, 06:15 PM
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took car to mechanic who said he needed to replace both parts of joint (ball and socket) and some other bushings in the area. also said that he need to drop/lower the engine to get in there to do the work. as you would expect, the labor is several times the cost of the parts. any thoughts on this? if this makes sense, are there other areas to check while the engine is lowered/dropped?
Old 09-10-2014, 05:23 AM
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:37 AM
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I don't see where an engine drop, partial or otherwise, would be necessary for this repair. I may be wrong but that's my opinion.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:44 AM
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