Did my alternator just die?
 

I was driving along on the freeway, about 70 miles into a 100 mile drive. Suddenly my car started to lose power. Giving gas first produced a surging/stalling feel, then it just slowed. I pulled over, turned it off, took a look. I am not a great mechanic, but belts were tight. I noticed a 'burning' smell different from my usual oil burning smell. Tried the key, fired up, so I got back on the road. A short time later (minutes), same thing. Dead. I called AAA, and wile waiting, I started it back up again, ran for a while, then rougher and rougher until it felt like it was 'pulsing' then died.

AAA showed up with a flatbed. Driver hooked his battery charge box up. Car started right up and I drove it up onto the bed.

He and I both guessed alternator, though I am no expert. Tomorrow I will try to test it per Bentley, but would appreciate any feedback or insights. Car is a 1984 3.2 Carrera Targa.

Thanks for coming to my aid, fellow Pelicans.

Edit: Battery is brand new, no warning lights on.

Did the alternator red light come on prior to the event?

No, the light did not come on.

Okay, tomorrow was work on 911 day anyways :-)

Check the voltage when car is on, it should be reading 13.5-13.8+/- volts, if no,t the alternator is not charging the battery.

AAA, that's good, so they did the print out diagnostic, right and suspected the alternator.

Make sure all connectors are clean and tight, especially ground/s. Recheck voltage while on, if no change then it is time to remove and have the alternator bench tested, DO NOT FORGET TO BRING YOUR PULLEY HALVES or they will not be able to test it properly, especially at a FLAPS. Some alternator shops may have if they work on VWs but most will not. Get two opinions, I found the same FLAPs a city apart had different results :eek:

Caveat, if a rebuild is in order, test it before you leave, you do not want to be re-doing the work again. Ask me how I know :-)

Had the same issue, no light came on. Alternator was toast.

Look on Amazon for the best price on a Bosch unit. I saved $50 over eBay and had no core charge

Get a Warranty, these suckers are not cheap, not to mention time costs

OK Draco thanks for the help. Tomorrow I will test voltage. I will try the Bentley test of comparing voltages with no accessories on, then turning some on to see if there is a difference to determine if it is the regulator.

I got this car to work and learn about it. I'd prefer to not have the lesson start on the side of the highway!

And this was going to be my weekend to attempt the Triangle of Death!

Ah ha, so it was a 911 day :-)

ah so, the Triangle, if you do a partial drop about 4-6 inches, it will make it a breeze to knock that sucka out. Just note for the breather, you have to bend the engine hanger loop out of te way to access one or two of the nuts. Important when you put the breather hose back, take careful note of the hose connector portion of the breather, there is a indent and the hose clamp can not sit on it or you will have a oil leak. PM me if you ave any questions on this or the alternator test procedures.

Stay well brother, thank goodness for AAA, they saved my but many times :-)

Jim

dmg_dirtsquirt: I will look at Amazon and see if I can figure out which one I need, though I may also see if mine is salvageable with a local rebuild.

Draco: You may very well get a PM from me at some point this weekend.

I really appreciate the help my friends!

Us Targas got to stick together :)

Solid state component over heating, I vote for ignition control module, alternate choice, rev limiter.

Battery being overcharged..... causes either.

84 is a DME car.

the car was able to turn over and start...several times? i would not think alt.

how about the DME relay?

I had the identical symptoms in my 84 Targa. The alternator was bad.

There's nothing "magic" about the alternators in these cars. A good foreign alternator rebuilding shop can rebuild it for you. No need to go to any great expense. I think I paid about $85 10 years ago. The alternator is still going strong.

I am pulling the alternator tomorrow, and will get a local Pelican to refer me to a shop to have it checked/fixed.

I suppose I should probably go ahead and get a DME relay 'just in case'.

Thanks again for all the help and advice. I will update this thread as things progress.

Does not sound like alternator. Sounds more like a fuel or sensor thing but 3.2's are very electronic so??. As always the only way is to test things in order. You can test voltage at battery with it running, no need to remove from car. Don't change stuff willy nilly.

take the car to advance and have the system checked, they do it for free.

It never hurts to have a spare DME relay in the glove box.

Surprised the AAA wouldn't measure the battery voltage?

But as others said it doesn't sound like battery/alternator. If you ran down the battery in your first event to the point where the DME gave up (~ 9 Volt) there is no way it recovered to where it could turn over the engine with the starter. You would have gotten nothing, not even dash lights....

If you really smelled something electric burning I'd focus on the DME under the drivers seat. That or the ignition switch might have overheated from a fault and that's what you smelled. To smell a frying alternator takes A LOT in a 911. I'd say its unlikely unless that thing is on fire. Remember the engine fan drives air down the engine guiding any smell right out and away.

Ingo