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Broken Bolt on Springplate, HELP?
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I was looking to loosen the nut on the springplate (on the right in the attached picture) to lower the rear end and it appears I spun the bolt. The threads are turning along with the nut, but not the inside of the bolt. I quit before I spun the entire thing off! I assume I can replace just the bolt, but what all is involved here? Is it safe to drive? Any help would be appreciated.
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Vance:
Those are not studs, they are the ride height adjusters. The 36mm head moves an eccentric, and the 24mm bolt is a locking bolt for the plate. |
Bump!
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"The threads are turning along with the nut, but not the inside of the bolt."
I think we need a better explaination of the problem/symptom to answer your questions, I know I do. |
It is not real clear from your description what is happening.
Are you holding the large hex on the backside stationary while this is happening? Is that what you mean by the "inside"? Do you have the special thin wrench required to hold the large hex? |
The hex side of the nut (inside) is not turning while the threaded end is along with nut? It appears it is ready to break? I was not holding the hex side - it held itself in place! Let's assume I break the locking bolt for the spring plate - can I purchase another and what is involved in replacing?
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You can in fact purchase another- I'm still not sure which bolt you are referring to but they are all available from the dealer (nowhere else - believe me, I looked). They are expensive but you'll manage (As I recall the large bolt is ~$35 and the smaller ones are ~$20; the nuts are a couple bucks and probably obtainable elsewhere). Replacement will require you cutting off the existing bolt and nut and replacing with new, and checking your alignment afterward. No biggie.
-d |
It is the 24mm locking bolt for the spring plate. It appears I will have to remove the entire plate to get the bolt into the hole? How much work is it to remove the spring plate - same as changing torsion bar?
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