Can I Just Re-Spray My Fuchs?
 

Man,

Loads of info in the archives related to re-finishing Fuchs. Imagine that... I couldn't find a single one that answered my question.

If I don't think my wheels need a complete refinish, can I just hit them with a shot of paint and be done with it?

They are in good shape, but the black is getting thin in spots (like an over zelous owner scrubbed them thin thinking they were getting cleaner or something).

Also, any recommendations on paints (brands and types) would be appreciated.

Thanks, Gordo

If the paint is getting thin in spots it sounds like it time for a total refinish, and the paint is probably so faded it would be difficult to match. Wurth makes a wheel refinishing paint very close in color to the original. Check the technical section of Pelican for step by step refinishing instructions.

Have you tried vasoline on them yet? It will do wonders.

For paint, Wurth brand paint from Pelican.

I have just repainted 3 of the 4 fuchs on my 1984. Sanded the center sections lightly - took off most but not all of the paint and used the Wurth matte black. One can did the 3 and I need another can for the last one. First I cleaned with gunk - sanded - gunked again - taped using electrical tape (it is soft and will bend around the wheel). Sprayed 3 moderately light coats. Took about 40 minutes per wheel + drying time. Used 200 grit paper.

Found my answer
 

Everything is in the archives, just need to sort through enought to find your answer...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74090&highlight=Paint+F uchs

Pretty much like I thought... light sanding and hit it with the spray.

Thanks folks,

Gordo

I don't think I'd even bother sanding it, unless they are damaged/scratched already.

Just clean them down with some paint thinner or wax remover/paint prep.

A lot easier, and you will get a smoother surface that will be just as durable as if you sanded.

I did mine, experimented w/ a few different finishes and decided that original, (Wurth matte black), looked best IMO.

I just cleaned mine up w/ thinner and synthetic steel wool, (like scotch pad), then do like the pros and rinse w/ H2O to remove any solvent residue. That is the skipped step always and makes paint really stick. Have to let 'em dry before spraying, obviously.

Don't think they need 3 coats, just do light coat, let dry for 30 min., then another light coat where you make sure to hit any missed spots. One(expensive) can should do it. :cool:

The prior ownwer of mine had put that god awful instant wheel cleaner on and it has hazed the clear coat. Any suggestions?

Yep just spray them,

here are two pics, before and after of mine and I am happy with the results. If I did it again I would go for matt black instead though.

Jakes

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/PIC00001.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/PIC00009.jpg

Semi-gloss is the way to go: flat black makes the wheel look always dirty and covered with pad dust, even when it isn't. Preparation is everything. Do this on a day when the temp is at least 65degree ambient. With a quality paint and a solid, sanded primer coat you can achieve great results.

John

Jdub's got it right. My original set of 15" wheels were looking tired, so I resprayed them with Satin Black Krylon. Worked great.

No problem. Use chemicals to make sure they are CLEAN. And I mean CLEAN. Sand lightly. I used an acid-etching primer. The old paint was not completely removed. Use the Wurth "satin" finish. They look totally factory. Really an excellent paint and excellent satin finish. Warm the paint cans up in warm water first, to get then to flow.

One Down 3 to Go
 

OK,

I sanded one down tonight with 220 grit. Took off most of the old paint. I was surprised by how thin it was (light sanding with the 220 took it down to metal in most places).

I will probably sand 2 paint 2 and move on from there (I'm the kind that likes immediate gratification...).

Wondering what kind of primer is recommended. All I could find is off color stuff (light grey to grey Rustoleum). Guess I would have to tape off the back side of the rims to use this. Concerned future chips would show the grey. Should I look around for black primer?

Guess the archives don't answer it all...

Thanks again,

Gordo

BTW, Waiting on parts kills me. I had planned to put this job off until winter. Giving the car a brake job, had the wheels off waiting on parts. Itching to do something got me started tonight. No turning back now.

Good luck Gordo,
I have the same job coming up soon.
Post some picture of the bef and aft.

Sienna911,
Just wondering what you used on your alum. Cleaned up well.

Gordo,

Go for it, you won't look back. I think as Superman already mentioned etch primer is probably better, I've been told it bonds better to metal than normal primer? I know Wurth make a grey one. The black primer is a good idea though, not sure if someone actually makes one, they must do...

BYantzer - I can't remember what the stuff was called, it is a metal polish (I will pop out at lunchtime and get the name from the spares shop down the road) I started off doing it by hand and then got an attachment for my drill which sped things up remarkably. I am pleased with the results but there is still some slight pitting, but you've got to be close to see it. There was someone else who used another polish which seems to work much easier

Cheers Jakes

FWIW, I talked to Larry at Car Care Specialties a while back about which paint to use. He recommended Wurth's Matt Lacquer over the Wurth's Satin - said the lacquer would handle the heat from the brakes better.

Then said just use wax on them occasionaly to keep them looking fresh.

hope this helps...

BYantzer,

I kept forgetting to look, and went and had a look, it's called Autosol and its a metal polish. Thats about all I can tell you

Cheers Jakes

BYantzter: if they look foggy/cloudy...DON'T POLISH OR SAND THEM UNTIL YOU TRY THE VASELINE APPROACH!!! Apply vaseline liberally over the entire wheel, let sit for a day, then remove with a cloth while buffing it out. Most wheel cleaners will make a factory finished/anodized fuchs wheel look cloudy and dull. Vaseline treatment is the solution for this problem and is recommended by the factory...it's in the owner's manual.

here's what vaseline will do....
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/fuchs.jpg




Once in this condition, it is very easy to keep it like this with a little vaseline evry now and then. Just apply and remove after washing, don't need to wait to remove.