Cleaning/Rebuilding 930 Calipers.... - Page 2

douglas bray · 10-07-2014, 12:02 AM

To illustrate just how crappy my cellphone camera is, here are two pictures taken back to back earlier this year. All parts are freshly plated with yellow zinc. In the second picture, some look like they are dipped in candy apple gold and some look chrome. To the naked eye, they look fresh out of East Germany, but to my Droid, they look Miami Vise.

douglas bray · 10-07-2014, 09:35 AM

Just ordered 12 bolt hats from Rebel S.

KTL · 10-07-2014, 01:19 PM

PMB provides a great service for badly neglected calipers. In this case there's no way these would warrant sending them to PMB. And in all honesty PMB needs to adjust their pricing on 930 caliper restoration. Why? Because I bought BRAND NEW 930 front calipers from a wholesale Porsche dealer for $525 ea. last year.

BTW Brembo doesn't use the yellow zinc for the caliper bridge bolts anymore. Mine are "white" zinc which is basically your average everyday bolt coating like you'd get at the local hardware store.

You're welcome regarding the birddog pointer for Clint's 12 bolt hats.

douglas bray · 10-07-2014, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL

You're welcome regarding the birddog pointer for Clint's 12 bolt hats.

Was that you? Crap!

Actually, you may have tipped the scales a tad bit.

Now for adding some real fuel to the fire.... What about the Vaseline treatment like guys do to Fuchs wheels? ....or using some high quality wax?

Kidding people....well, sort of.

Ronnie's.930 · 10-07-2014, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by douglas bray

Now for adding some real fuel to the fire.... What about the Vaseline treatment like guys do to Fuchs wheels? ....or using some high quality wax?

Kidding people....well, sort of.

Smear some Vaseline all over the horribly faded finish on those calipers and see if it rejuvenates them! Put plenty on the rotor side of the new brake pads - helps with the bed-in process!

KTL · 10-07-2014, 02:36 PM

The vaseline trick works. I've used it on anodized Fuchs before.

douglas bray · 10-07-2014, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

Smear some Vaseline all over the horribly faded finish on those calipers and see if it rejuvenates them! Put plenty on the rotor side of the new brake pads - helps with the bed-in process!

Not sure if serious.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL

The vaseline trick works. I've used it on anodized Fuchs before.

Just talked to Clint at Rebel about machining the rears. He says he only need the half with the mounting flange and the dogs can stay in with no problem.

What a nice guy!!! I am totally stoked.

He said just pack them up nice in a box and put a little note inside the box with a reminder of work needed. He will let me know when they are done and tell me where to send the money. Even said I could stop in and pay cash....I like that idea.

Anyway, it looks like it is happening.

Ronnie's.930 · 10-07-2014, 04:22 PM

Doug, yes, I was was just yankin' yer chain a bit.

Craig_D · Craig_D's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by douglas bray

Ya, there is no effing way I'm paying someone to make them look like their pictures. Mine look better than theirs. Their bolts look chromed and I'll just stop right there....for all I know one of you is sleeping with the dude.

Yeah, it's very pricey for the 930 refurbish, but Eric is the best at what he does. Sleeping with him? Not sure where you're head's at, so I'll leave that alone.

Here's my experience with SC rears, that are much less expensive to have refurbished than the 930 brakes. Everything was sent back to me in flawless condition.

There is a large variance in cost between perfection and crappy, and very often I find myself paying for "good enough", unless it's a functional highlight like wheels or something that I don't want to ever have to touch again. If you do want perfect, send them to Eric at PMB. If his pricing somehow offends you, then of course do not send them, and I'm sure you can find something that makes you happy. Considering you did say you had gotten these for a good barter deal, I thought you might want to ante up to perfect, but I completely understand if good-enough makes you happy. I sure didn't mean to insult you with his pricing, however.

Pictures below.

douglas bray · 10-11-2014, 12:21 PM

Guys, I'm just shocked that my fellow hobbyists put out good money to do the work they could do themselves. That's it. Nothing more. There is nothing special about the yellow plating, or the seals, or the hardware. There is no magic to it.

Now, understand this is coming from a guy who hasn't paid a wrench to do anything but tires in 30 years, unless you want to include the one time I let a buddy hoist the short block out of my chevy because he had a better cherry picker.

I turn my own wrenches, spray my own paint, source my own parts, and do it all in a shed I built with my own hands.

Today seemed like a good day to drop the front end....I was right.

douglas bray · 10-11-2014, 03:10 PM

OK, got the new camber plates in, new rack spacers in, refurbished cross-member in, refurbished control arms with new ball joints in, new T-bars in, and all the related bits in place. Time to attack the hubs, brakes, and such....

douglas bray · 10-11-2014, 04:29 PM

Backing plates, hubs/rotors, and calipers are on....the old ones for now. ....and I'm freakin' tired.

Gotta go back and torque everything to spec.

KTL · 10-13-2014, 10:09 AM

Connecting that underbody style sway bar sucks. Will need to do some pushing & shoving to get the U-brackets lined up with the receiving locations on the chassis.

Before you install the hubs, wipe that excess grease off the spindles. You want the ID of the bearings (ID of the inner bearing race) to "grip" the spindle and avoid spinning there. All the spinning should be the bearing rollers against the inner race of the bearing itself and the outer race pressed into the hub.

theclaw · 10-13-2014, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL

Before you install the hubs, wipe that excess grease off the spindles. You want the ID of the bearings (ID of the inner bearing race) to "grip" the spindle and avoid spinning there. All the spinning should be the bearing rollers against the inner race of the bearing itself and the outer race pressed into the hub.

And all those times I've been slathering a bunch of grease on the spindles.

douglas bray · 10-13-2014, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL

Connecting that underbody style sway bar sucks. Will need to do some pushing & shoving to get the U-brackets lined up with the receiving locations on the chassis.

Before you install the hubs, wipe that excess grease off the spindles. You want the ID of the bearings (ID of the inner bearing race) to "grip" the spindle and avoid spinning there. All the spinning should be the bearing rollers against the inner race of the bearing itself and the outer race pressed into the hub.

No Can Do on the spindles. Greasing up machined surfaces goes back several generations in my family...cut's down on rust for one. Heck, my high school auto shop teacher would have had a conniption had I not greased the axle. If your bearings are spinning on the axle instead of the race, you got problems bigger than you know. My ROP teacher had some formula that created equal inward and outward pressure between all the races. We scrapped that for doing it by touch. We ended up using a screwdriver to pry on the thrust washer. If the washer just barely moved it was right. No movement was no good, and too much movement was also not good. I've seen way too many guys loose pads and rotors over not going tight enough....and not checking them 10 miles in. Anyway, I do appreciate the advise, but I'm a bit stuck in my ways at this point.

Speaking of sway bars, I had the wrong strut thingy. Went back today and picked up "Carrera Swaybar Struts". I'll post a picture later.

Just put my wife and my mother on a cruise ship so the shed is gonna be dark until Saturday.

douglas bray · 10-13-2014, 07:03 PM

It's obvious now that one is for below the body and one if for through the body. Sorry, how was I to know?

....and yes, I built the box and they tools are mostly Snob On.

....and yes, I really do have an orange bar crest glued to my box.

douglas bray · 10-13-2014, 07:36 PM

Got the hats in from Rebel S Racing. Now to figure out if the machined lip goes in or out.....

As another aside.... There must be a third strut variant. I think I was wrong above. A through the body strut would not need the threaded hole in the middle... So the order of progression would be: 1) through the body, 2) small sway bar ala SC, 3) Carrera sway bar..

KTL · 10-14-2014, 11:12 AM

I hear what you're saying about the spindle greasing. Keep in mind that a lot that grease gets swiped away anyway by the precision fit of the inner race ID against the OD of the spindle. So the bearings mostly "scrape" off the grease as they slide onto their respective locations on the spindle.

Nice tool boxes and tool collection. Impressive!!!

Take a look at the 930 floating hats at the bottom of the page here VCI - Porsche 911- 930 69-89, 914/6 brake upgrade page Looks like the machined relief goes on the back side to support the T-lock bobbins.

douglas bray · 10-14-2014, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL

I hear what you're saying about the spindle greasing. Keep in mind that a lot that grease gets swiped away anyway by the precision fit of the inner race ID against the OD of the spindle. So the bearings mostly "scrape" off the grease as they slide onto their respective locations on the spindle.

Nice tool boxes and tool collection. Impressive!!!

Take a look at the 930 floating hats at the bottom of the page here VCI - Porsche 911- 930 69-89, 914/6 brake upgrade page Looks like the machined relief goes on the back side to support the T-lock bobbins.

The tight fit is exactly why I kinda went wonky on you. I was even told to make sure there was grease on the back seal to keep it lubricated and a dollop in the cap in case excessive heat builds up the grease will spread outward into the bearings. Who knows?

I will continue to study the VCI site. I even looked at a set of original 930 hats yesterday to see if I could glean any info from them. Once I get the rotors I'm in business. Still not sure of the hardware. Likely going to have to pick the brain of my old buddy Dr. Z.

KTL · 01:32 PM

Check with Clint or Max at Rebel. Their hats don't have the square section built into them, so I don't know how you can use the factory hardware arrangement (M6 bolts, lock tabs, spacer ring, all of which are still available from Porsche) even though their web site says you can use the factory floating hardware.

BTW the factory hats are still available. They are EXPENSIVE at $557 EACH retail. Ouch...

Here's a good thread on the 930 floating rotor assembly

'79 930 - Brake refresh in progress

Here's the exploded view and part numbers

Looking at the nice image provided by JimmyT in that thread above, the machined relief would go in? Not really sure......

Edited to add a bigger picture of that diagram.........